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Rob Pulham

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  • Website URL
    http://www.railway-models-and-art.co.uk/

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  • Location
    The Rhubarb Triangle
  • Interests
    Railway Modelling, DIY, Visiting Preserved Railways. I model in 7mm these days and I like to build kits.

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  1. Mine too as I am only working on it at weekends, the J6 is taking my attention during the week.
  2. Hi Tony, You would need to upload your MP4 file to YouTube or Vimeo etc. and link to it from there. Mine is hosted on YouTube. Aside from the sparse instructions the kit is very well designed. In fairness, it should be because Garth was taught to draw in CAD by Dave Sharp of MOK. If you ever build an MOK kit, you will note many similarities to this one with the crisp tab and slots that allow you to do much of the construction dry fitted before committing to solder.
  3. Hi Tony, Mine came as part of the Hobby Holidays Chassis Jig, which is the bit in the background that it's sat on. If I have any sort of criticism it's that the rollers are a fraction too far apart making some locos wobble around a bit on them. One of these days I will get around to moving them inwards.
  4. This hadn't finished uploading when I replied earlier https://youtu.be/QDBUtobGelE
  5. That looks good to me Tony, I have managed to get my chassis running smoothly to today, a couple of tweaks to the front on one side and the middle crank pin on the other just taking a small amount off each until I had the tiniest bit of sideplay in the joints of the coupling rods. Once I had that I connected the power via the motor leads and it runs like a good one. I now have it running in and have made a small start on the footplate but nothing worth taking photos of.
  6. Hi Tony, I am sure you will be fine with the Slaters crank pins. I used them on mine without issues. The axles bushes on both that I have done had very thin rims
  7. Hi Tony, Have you fitted the spring layers either side of the frames? I did initially but took them off and moved them all to the outside f the frames because I couldn't get the beams in and out when fitting them. If you do that you will be able to get the bearings in okay. I fitted the beam pivot from the inside too. I haven't done much in the way of construction today, It been spent trying to get the chassis running after modifying the Derek Mundy crankpins. I am still tweaking it because it runs fine forwards at the minute but in reverse it u
  8. This week has seen the lubricators fitted along with the firebox/ashpan sides. Then I fitted all the main components together and fitted it to the chassis. I needed to file a bit of the undersides at both ends to get the chassis to mate with the body. This is because I have used the narrowest frame spacer due to the need to get the loco around 5’ curves. But it all fits now; I have just rested the chimney and dome on for the photo. I have also fitted the splashers and cab floor and fitted a couple of short lengths of tube through
  9. Hi Tony, I am plan to cheat even more I have a resin boiler/smokebox from the Hachette flying scotsman to use on mine and I am on the lookout for a cab that isn't going to need a second mortgage - to say that they only paid 50p for issue one some of these eBay sellers are right chancers...
  10. Very nice, my very first 7mm loco build was a scratch build and I am slowly gathering the bits and pieces to scratch build myself an LNER P1 I will scan the etched sheet list and send you a copy.
  11. Hi Tony, My equivalents are still on the foortplate etch and having looked at the sheet that shows the layout of all the parts they are close to part 006 and I wonder if they are there to beef up 006 should it be needed. As you say no part number or mention of them in the instructions. I have had a look at the chassis on my J63 and I can't see them on that either so I can only surmise that I didn't fit them on that, or not to the chassis...
  12. Hi Tony, I am surprised that you have a couple of spacers spare, you have put them together in pairs?
  13. Hi Tony, Ahh now you have refreshed my memory, mine is a Buhler too, not Faulhaber as I suggested. I should imaging that they will be the same if supplied by Garth with the original kit. I must admit I haven't found the captive screws an issue but to be fair I do have several smallish lumps of plywood and hardwood on my bench which I use constantly to rest things on, drill into etc. so I don't even think about it. I have a couple of plastic clamps that I use to clamp one or more of the blocks to the bench to push against to close up gaps etc when soldering.
  14. It was and still is, it came with a Faulhaber motor that is slightly smaller than an 18/33 but it performs as it should and pulls all I need it to. The only issue I have with the loco is that I need to make the sound a bit louder and I just haven't got around to it. It's fine at home when there are no other sounds but you can't hear it at all when on a proper test track.
  15. No problem Tony, the more the merrier. Are you using a motor/gear set or a combined motor gearbox? On my first build I used the motor/gear set supplied with the kit and utilised the frame spacer designed to hold the motor. On the current build an ABC motor/gearbox was supplied so I have left that frame spacer out. Sadly I should have checked the motor gearbox fitting before scratching up the brake cylinder as that won't fit because it interferes with the final drive gear
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