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Pixie last won the day on May 7 2011

Pixie had the most liked content!

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    Cake. Cake related products.

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  1. What dimensions do you need Justin? I can offer a set of Western walkways. Pix
  2. Hi William, For most of my 'construction' etches (things like wagon chassis, bogie inners, etc) I use 10 thou/0.25mm nickel silver which seems to pretty common in the 2mm world; I am a fan of how it builds up and take solder. The use of 0.1mm stainless steel is only for items that I need the finesse and strength, whilst also being thin. PPD do not offer 0.1mm nickel silver, but if they did I'd be very worried that the roof grilles would just tear. Likewise, the coach sides shown above are in 0.1mm stainless steel - if they were nickel silver I would be worried about deforming the
  3. I can’t really add much to the debate aside from being an advocate of Autocad, the Hollywood Foundry guides and PPD - no relationship with the latter aside from being satisfied customer. They did seem to to go through a period of occasionally supply a slightly ‘fluffy’ etch but everything I’ve had recently has been razor sharp. The below is 4thou stainless steel with each vent on the grille being 0.1mm wide. I still find unwrapping an etch for the first time one of the the most satisfying elements of our hobby, akin to a metallic Christmas morning. C
  4. Meanwhile, across the pond... Pix
  5. Hello Julia! How’s things? Congratulations on the Chairman’s Cup, well deserved! I was granted exemption from quarantine through work, although I still limited myself to only going to work and distancing/face-masking at all times just in case I was carrying it. Thankfully, all clear here. The time not spent outdoors certainly gave a lot of time to get some CAD work done, I even spent a little time on Autodesk Fusion which was fun. My other half did have to quarantine; two weeks indoors almost drove her insane. Cheers, Steve
  6. Not quite the right thread but does anyone recognise these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184443254323? If they are indeed ‘N gauge’, they look relatively vintage and finescale. Cheers, Steve
  7. Hi MHB, The Clayton glazing pushed straight out, it made a nice change not to have to fight with heavily glued in glazing. The main edge you want to paint/cover is the edge that’s an interference fit with the body so it’s important to remove it. The vertical uprights are in unchanged, just painted black. I didn’t remove any material from them or trim them at all. I hope this helps, please let me know if I can assist any further. Meanwhile on my workbench, things have turned very Southern. I’ve had a hankering to model some early 2000s SWT EMUs for a w
  8. You jest, but I got stuck in traffic on the M25 this morning which meant I didn’t make it home in time. Luckily, with the wonders of modern technology, I could still ‘attend’! Pix
  9. There's a lot out there in 1/144 scale Jerry; they're close enough for me. The F-Toys range is very good - I'm not sure what you're looking for but they've certainly done a Spitfire and a Swordfish. They come pre-painted and nicely assembled; I've got a bunch of English Electric Lightnings for formation flying over Parkend. There's some interesting stuff out there in 1/144. Airfix do a SRN4 hovercraft in the scale, that I've quite works out how to include into a layout yet. Cheers, Steve
  10. More of a Scrapbox appeal than a Gloatbox appeal! I'm on the look out for a good number of the old, non-Blue Ribband Farish Mk.1 coach bodies. Either the old-old type with the window inserts or the solid-sided type. The livery is completely irrelevant; as is the roof, chassis, bogies, underframes, box, window inserts, if they're Poole produced or early China produced. It's just the body moulding itself I need - I have a cunning plan. Please let me know if you can assist - remuneration via the usual means is available or a donation to the charity of your choice.
  11. Hi John, I've got some that are in use on Parkend to make up 2-3 wagon 'clusters' with DG's on the outer vehicles. They're very nice and it's quite pleasing to take up the slack when hauling a train of them. My only criticism is they're a permanent coupling so a long rake would be a big of a pain to handle; if I ever get around to building the 'mainline' layout I sometimes threaten to build then I would probably find a way of mounting them with a magnet so they could be separated. I don't think there's anything available now - I bought a big bundle from the chap behind
  12. Hi Justin, Thats looking good; certainly dropping it down is a marked improvement. I’m looking forward to seeing Dailuaine in full early-70s mode, I think it’ll look very at home. I had a look at mine this evening and the normal approach for the Hymek and the 22 wouldn’t work as you suggested, there’s just not enough chassis block for the springs to make contact with and they would end up somewhere in the gear tower. For mine, I’ve nipped the paddles at the corner of the chassis block so they were flush with the chassis block. I’ve then added the
  13. These look great Julia - there’s something very appealing about not-the-norm point work and I have to keep reminding myself the narrow gauge is only 4mm! I hope they spawn a layout in time. Are there any examples of a double divergence point? In other words where both the standard and narrow gauge go in both directions. That could be a interesting next step. Steve
  14. My sincere apologies Paul, I’ll be in touch! Morning Justin - good choice on livery. My next one will be the same to model D8658 in its final BR days; it’s a great machine in preservation that makes a very satisfying noise! For the bogie/pick-up arrangement I retain the uprights on the bogies and use them to mount the coupling springs onto vertically (the bogie uprights fit into the ‘bore’ of the spring), fixed place with a little blob of solder. The vertical springs then make direct contact with the chassis block for electrical continuity and provide just eno
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