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Pixie last won the day on May 7 2011

Pixie had the most liked content!

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    Cake. Cake related products.

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  1. Hello Julia! How’s things? Congratulations on the Chairman’s Cup, well deserved! I was granted exemption from quarantine through work, although I still limited myself to only going to work and distancing/face-masking at all times just in case I was carrying it. Thankfully, all clear here. The time not spent outdoors certainly gave a lot of time to get some CAD work done, I even spent a little time on Autodesk Fusion which was fun. My other half did have to quarantine; two weeks indoors almost drove her insane. Cheers, Steve
  2. Not quite the right thread but does anyone recognise these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184443254323? If they are indeed ‘N gauge’, they look relatively vintage and finescale. Cheers, Steve
  3. Hi MHB, The Clayton glazing pushed straight out, it made a nice change not to have to fight with heavily glued in glazing. The main edge you want to paint/cover is the edge that’s an interference fit with the body so it’s important to remove it. The vertical uprights are in unchanged, just painted black. I didn’t remove any material from them or trim them at all. I hope this helps, please let me know if I can assist any further. Meanwhile on my workbench, things have turned very Southern. I’ve had a hankering to model some early 2000s SWT EMUs for a while so I’ve been busy in CAD. So far I’ve finished the 4-CIG, 4-BIG and 4-VEP. And a few oddities to as space fillers. I think the entire world maybe drawing etches at the moment, PPD are quoting up to 6 weeks lead time! Cheers, Pix
  4. You jest, but I got stuck in traffic on the M25 this morning which meant I didn’t make it home in time. Luckily, with the wonders of modern technology, I could still ‘attend’! Pix
  5. There's a lot out there in 1/144 scale Jerry; they're close enough for me. The F-Toys range is very good - I'm not sure what you're looking for but they've certainly done a Spitfire and a Swordfish. They come pre-painted and nicely assembled; I've got a bunch of English Electric Lightnings for formation flying over Parkend. There's some interesting stuff out there in 1/144. Airfix do a SRN4 hovercraft in the scale, that I've quite works out how to include into a layout yet. Cheers, Steve
  6. More of a Scrapbox appeal than a Gloatbox appeal! I'm on the look out for a good number of the old, non-Blue Ribband Farish Mk.1 coach bodies. Either the old-old type with the window inserts or the solid-sided type. The livery is completely irrelevant; as is the roof, chassis, bogies, underframes, box, window inserts, if they're Poole produced or early China produced. It's just the body moulding itself I need - I have a cunning plan. Please let me know if you can assist - remuneration via the usual means is available or a donation to the charity of your choice. Cheers, Steve
  7. Hi John, I've got some that are in use on Parkend to make up 2-3 wagon 'clusters' with DG's on the outer vehicles. They're very nice and it's quite pleasing to take up the slack when hauling a train of them. My only criticism is they're a permanent coupling so a long rake would be a big of a pain to handle; if I ever get around to building the 'mainline' layout I sometimes threaten to build then I would probably find a way of mounting them with a magnet so they could be separated. I don't think there's anything available now - I bought a big bundle from the chap behind Mathieson Models which remain unused so not really been in the market for them. I seem to recall someone on here (or perhaps the VAG) has been making some 2mm 3-links so it may be worth checking with them. Cheers, Steve
  8. Hi Justin, Thats looking good; certainly dropping it down is a marked improvement. I’m looking forward to seeing Dailuaine in full early-70s mode, I think it’ll look very at home. I had a look at mine this evening and the normal approach for the Hymek and the 22 wouldn’t work as you suggested, there’s just not enough chassis block for the springs to make contact with and they would end up somewhere in the gear tower. For mine, I’ve nipped the paddles at the corner of the chassis block so they were flush with the chassis block. I’ve then added the slightest of ‘humps’ in the middle so the paddle is not inconstancy with the bogie upright. The spring on the bogie upright then makes the electrical contact and allows for a little height tweaking. It seems to have worked, my Clayton is currently trundling around my Unitrack circle without much fuss. Assuming it’s all fine at the weekend then I’ll solder the springs in place. Height-wise, I’d call it close enough with this Farish Mk.1. For reference and as promised, here’s the what I do for the Dapol 22s and Hymeks. It’s pretty basic but solves the problem well. Cheers, Pix
  9. These look great Julia - there’s something very appealing about not-the-norm point work and I have to keep reminding myself the narrow gauge is only 4mm! I hope they spawn a layout in time. Are there any examples of a double divergence point? In other words where both the standard and narrow gauge go in both directions. That could be a interesting next step. Steve
  10. My sincere apologies Paul, I’ll be in touch! Morning Justin - good choice on livery. My next one will be the same to model D8658 in its final BR days; it’s a great machine in preservation that makes a very satisfying noise! For the bogie/pick-up arrangement I retain the uprights on the bogies and use them to mount the coupling springs onto vertically (the bogie uprights fit into the ‘bore’ of the spring), fixed place with a little blob of solder. The vertical springs then make direct contact with the chassis block for electrical continuity and provide just enough uplift to provide the required spacing between the gearing. It looks a little like Flexicoil springing but with one spring either side of the gear tower. This means that flappy paddle system can be completely discarded, which pleases me greatly as I’ve had no end of issues with it. I’ve used this system for years on my Hymeks and D6300s and I’m pleased with it, it also seems to solve the body-moving-before-the-bogies-do issue that plagues Dapol stuff. I’m currently in France* but I will get some photos when I get home - it’s a lot simpler to photograph than explain. The only issue with the Clayton I see is that chassis block is only as wide as the nose but the principle should still work. One thing I have been musing it’s putting a Judith Edge cab onto the EFE body, it would certainly add some finesse around this area. Cheers, Steve *where I seem to have acquired a helper... who helpfully deleted attempt one at this message!
  11. Hmmm, in that case, I think CF would Really good in early 70’s mode. Let me know how many Deltics you require. (Excellent and inspiring work as ever Tim) Pix
  12. Hi Paul - easy enough. There’s 4 little screws to remove, bogies pop out in the usual Dapol manner and then the bonnets unclips from the running plate. I’m not a fan of the pick up ‘flaps’ which come down from the chassis block to the bogies and can see they’re going to be a bit of a pain to put it all back together again - I will replace these with coupling springs mounted on the bogies in due course. We’re you able to order more Tamper transfer by the way? I really must finish mine and would be verY appreciative if you have any spare. That’s wonderful and hard to believe it’s almost 120 years old! Hi John, sure. It’s nothing more scientific that giving all the edges of the glazing which I don’t want I be transparent a coat of Matt black or, where there’s a friction fit between body and glazing, a coupe of coats with a black Sharpie. The main area of improvement for the 17 is the inner ‘window sill’ which disappear as when painted black. Thanks Justin. I think it’s a case of sending them off to Gordon; none of the drop ins are a real starting point. I think the wheels move on the axles so it shouldn’t be a major job. Which livery did you go for? Cheers, Steve
  13. Looking at this whilst considering a 2mm fine scale conversion - the prototype has 3’ 3 3/4” wheels according to the CLAG Wheelbase data which scales out to 6.8mm in 1/148. Measuring the EFE wheels measure 7.45mm so there’s a 0.65mm gain in height there which goes along way to the 0.8mm discrepancy discussed above. The final bit could easily be lost by tweaking the ‘flappy paddle’ pick up arrangement or replacement with springs as I plan to do. It’s still an excellent basis for taking the model further; I’m well up for a couple more of them. Pix
  14. Hello Marc! How's things? Hope South Wales is treating you well during these strange time. I'm alright thanks - going through a bit of a period of contemplating what I want to do with my professional life but outside of that, all is well. It would be good to catch up properly sometime once things return to normality, perhaps at a show or even for dinner somewhere? Whilst I'm here, a few updates from the workbench. I recently picked up the new EFE Rail Clayton from Kernow - it's nice to see another dinosaur diesel available in 2mm on the RTR market, even if it's one that's waaaaay out of region for anything I'm planning. It's a nice model and I'll bet my first-born that it's come from the same factory as Dapol's 22 given the similarity in construction. It even has the slightly misshapen BR double arrows that the D6300 carried. My plan for this one is to model 8598 in it's RTC days - I understand that it visited Swindon once to collect Test Car Hermes after conversion so I'll use that as a vague justification for bring on the Western Region. I've not done too much so far; just given the chassis a coat of matt black, filled in the headcodes, changed the arrows and tweaked the glazing slightly to try and remove the prismatic effect. Before... After! I could be quite tempted by a little shunting plank based around Edinburgh - a couple of Claytons and a few other early 70's diesels would be neat. Outside of the Clayton and Hermes seen above; I've barely touched 2mm for a while. A batch of 7mm Cavalier's are slowly coming together - from the A-pillar backwards they're a Schuco diecast model with some home-brew resin fronts grafted on. The idea is to build a model of every car that I strip for bits to keep mine going; I diecast shrine of sorts I guess. YKB 348W was the first car stripped in a scrapyard in Bordon on a scorching hot summers day a few years back; whilst LBH 78V was found in a yard near Evesham last February where it rained and snowed for every moment we were there. I think both cars have features on this thread. The headlamp lenses on the above two aren't quite right - they're a bit too square and missing the chamfer that blends into the shape of the bonnet. After a lot of messing around, I've found casting them in clear UV resin works well. Normal casting rubber moulds didn't work quite right as it seems to 'scratch' easily which was carried over to the UV resin moulding - in the end, I made a polished master and pushed it into Blu-Tac to form a one time mould. It worked really well and something I will experiment more in the future. My other half recently told me I needed a book end as my books on one of my shelves kept toppling over. So I've been busy creating the below - I don't think it's quite what she had in mind; but I like it! Some friends and I have spent a fair bit of time in Wuppertal as a base for visiting Intermodellbau and doing various Germany railtours - there's a top brauhaus in the old art-deco Swimming Pool there (between some very sketch parts I should add) and it's become a bit of an adopted home-from-home. Probably it's most famous for it's Dangle-bahn suspended tramway. A few years ago at Intermodelbau, I picked up a laser cut kit for a section of trackwork and a model of one of their new units that were being launched at the time. I've never really known what to do with it but after a bit of thinking it's become a bookend. The Wuppertal book is false - it's pages have been glued together and a slot cut to support that end of the trackwork. Inside the book is a more traditional metal bookend which then sits under the rest of the books. The original plan was to have a book on elephants as the left hand support as a nod to Tuffi (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuffi) but, much like Tuffi, it was much to big to work! Finally, miles from 2mm, but rail-related. The only piece of furniture I inherited from the previous owner of the house was a set of dining room tables and chairs - they've had a hard couple of years, being covered in dust, paint, beer and take-aways as I'd planned to throw them away. However, I've slowly become attached to them but I've never had much love for the worn, cigarette-burnt brown fabric on them. A little head-scratching and some inspiration from a friend pointed me towards some BR Trojan moquette as a hard wearing idea for recovering them. After a couple of days of beavering away, I'm pleased with them! More soon. Take care, Pix
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