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Everything posted by RedgateModels

  1. All the figures on Fourgig East were carefully placed, mainly by SWMBO, to tell a story. She tells me it's all those childhood years playing with a farm set that did it
  2. It's a fair point and one which I had not thought much about until now, but personally, I got back into modelling after the birth of our fist son. I'd like to think that it was the prospect of building a railway with him but in reality it was something to distract me from the trails and tribulations of fatherhood! I was very much into trains etc as a kid though
  3. This just popped up on a saved search https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363060481544?ul_noapp=true not for me, but nice prezzy for someone with a passion for APT- Mr Tilt perhaps?
  4. Not sure the wife would agree with the Gentleman, but sorry in any case, I ahve used my spare chassis to repair someone else's loco in the meantime. As has been said you can get 3d printed axles from Shapeways.
  5. On the original question, I use microswitches on the MERG servo mounts, I don't find any problems with them TBH. MERG are producing a single servo driver PCB though that can include a relay, very much a personal choice really. Oh and I have used a frog juicer where I have no moving blade on a fixed crossing, but then I am DCC and always will be
  6. Many attempts have been made to eliminate servo twitch on start up at MERG, the current idea that myself and Geoff Church amongst others are championing is the use of an LM217/317 regulator configured to provide a delayed 5v supply to the servos independent of the control circuitry. In this way the PIC is up to speed and ready to control the servo way before it has enough voltage to start working. Seems to have solved the problem for us. I have produced my own PCB too Much smaller than the standard MERG offering, with a few niceties that I don't use (ICSP series resistor network on the inputs) removed. I have included AC/DCC rectification though as the next generation of standard MERG pcbs will be 12v DC powered only. I have found that simply gluing aluminium foil on the underside of the baseboard where the servo wires run connected to 0v has removed all twitching caused by the passage of locos over them. The Servo4 boards have always had one fixing hole connected to 0v which with a metal spacer onto the foil provides a handy connection.
  7. hmmmm, will have to check my Golden Arrow/R2785 Crosti conversion. Which part is affected?
  8. Ta, it is 8 ft scenic though, a bit bigger than your shoe rack
  9. The crux of the matter possibly. There are groups of people who want to help, promote the hobby/scale/etc and those who want to sit on committees.
  10. Personally? There's not a lot the GoG could do to persuade me to join as I have never seen any need to do so. My GWR themed BLT got built, published and exhibited perfectly well without GoG assistance. Having said that, I'm not a member of any club or society apart from MERG RMweb has provided all the assistance I could have ever needed
  11. Bad news for the turnouts on Fourgig East I guess once one TT300 fails I'll have to rip out the others and go MERG servo driven, which will then mean using my new project to control the signals too!
  12. I agree with this, on my current layout I'm using Peco OO-9 narrow gauge turnouts with the spring removed being operated by servos. A microswitch does the frog switching. I got a "beep" from the MERG DCO when operating the turnout. Basically the switch was operating before the blades had moved from the stock rail. A quick tweak of the microswitch lever and all sorted.
  13. Sad, but not unexpected. A good man sadly gone. I only ever dealt with Adrian over the phone and email. He was so helpful in sorting out what I needed to complete a second hand O gauge wagon kit that I had aquired. Photos of random bits were emailed and missing parts arrived in the post for the cost of a return stamp or two. I'll leave these images as part of his legacy of product and service to customers.
  14. A little "light" reading on Wikipedia on the subject https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectifier#Full-wave_rectification
  15. It's not regulated, so just rectified by a bridge rectifier and smoothed with a 1000uF capacitor. if the DCC booster voltage varies, so will the output voltage.
  16. [shameless plug] if you like me like the idea of powering everything from the DCC bus (track or accessory) then my little PCB might be of interest No need for a separate DC power supply for your lighting, accessory decoders etc etc [/shameless plug]
  17. Time Left: 11 hours and 35 minutes

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    A little project I have been working on, a PCB that converts the DCC Bus signal to DC. Features as follows: Input stage designed to not clip DCC waveform - unlike normal rectifier circuits First output is full wave rectified and smoothed DC, typically 14v with a Powercab, other DCC systems may give different voltages. Ideal for smoke units or anything that would normally need a plug in DC supply. Second output variable from approx 1.5v to 14v by a simple screwdriver adjuster, ideal for powering LEDs (series resistor recommended) Compact design - only 33x50x15mm will fit in any small space, even under a building Capable of supplying up to 1.5A Input and output short circuit protected So if you, like me, want to keep a "2 wire" philosophy with your DCC layout, but want to power those accessories? this little circuit is for you. Have an existing DCC layout and have added a building in a far corner away from your existing DC supplies? this PCB will get that lighting working.


  18. You can also use Suzie's formula to work out resistor values for other supply voltages 12v for example - (12 - 2) / 0.02 = 500 ohms (although as a general rule of thumb I always use a 1K ohm resistor for 12v)
  19. blocked, thanks for the heads up
  20. Who said anything about violence? far different things happened behind the bike sheds in my day .......
  21. Just seem this topic. wholeheartedly agree on the stepped shelves, this was a main feature of the now closed Gee Dee's in Nottingham. As a kid I dreamed of a 2 minute "run around" scooping locos off the stepped shelves as fast as I could LOL Keep up the good work mate, the Hornby "Sherwood" is fab
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