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Barry Ten

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Everything posted by Barry Ten

  1. I spent the last couple of evenings adding Crownline brake gear to this old Hornby Battle-of-Britain: Although it might seem a bit daft when there are better RTR models available, not to mention the possibility of a Comet chassis under the existing body, I wanted to preserve as much of the works of the model as possible. It was a 40-year old Christmas present, its X04 motor still ran, and I felt that the nature of the Bulleid brake gear would go some way to disguising the crude wheels, even if the coupling and connecting rods are still very much Triang-Hornby. The Crownline detailing parts also include slidebars and crosshead bits, missing on the Hornby model. Although the brake gear is soldered up, it still needs to be glued to the chassis block. I first glued thin acetate sheet to the chassis, to prevent any chance of shorting, then epoxied the brake gear onto these sheets. It all seems to work so far, although I've still got the opposite slide bar to do. Once the chassis is done, I'll move onto the body improvements. Al
  2. Yes, the tender's right now but only after I swapped it for the one running behind Westward Ho, which was then renumbered to 4028 Eddystone. And if that's not right I'm taking up toy soldiers.
  3. I've been informed (very nicely) that Calstock needs the later type of ash pan, so back on the bench she comes. What a minefield these things are. I think I'm going for the full house of mistakes so far: wrong tender, scrolls too low, now the ash pan. And all because I ended up with two Blandfords and wanted to rename one of them to a loco that ran on the S&D!
  4. This week I ordered some of the "Albert Goodall" range of Bulleid detailing parts from RT models. I was very pleased with the speed of service and set about improving the first of my upgrades, Calstock. The main job is removing the cast representation of the ash-pan from the pony truck, and then substituting the Albert Goodall replacement, which goes a long way to making the model look more convincing. I also added the Goodall cylinder drain pipes which were never included with the Hornby model, although they did do them for the subsequent rebuilt WCs and original Merchant Navies. Normally I would solder up my own, but with four locos to do, I thought it was worth the trouble of ordering the etch. The pipes should tuck in behind the front steps but if they do I can't quite get Calstock to run without fouling the bogie, so I've compromised and run the pipes to the outside. The greenhouse, if anyone's interested, is a rather nice Severn Models etch. Al
  5. I've just bought my first new phone in 12 years. I'm not interested in phones at all but I needed a phone that would run the parkrun volunteer app, which allows one to time runners, scan their barcodes and upload the results. I thought it would be easy as all I needed to do was ask my existing provider to give me a smaller sim card, which supposedly could be done very easily in the shop. As you can guess it was anything but straightforward, and soon turned into farce involving endless hours calling ee, visiting their shops etc, culminating in my existing sim being deactivated before I had the new one, and therefore being without any phone at all when out of the house. Eventually I bought a relatively inexpensive smartphone, but the present irony is that the aforementioned app doesn't work properly on it. Grrr!
  6. Galileo shuttle craft from Polar Lights:
  7. And here's a low angle view of the same scene.
  8. I've been working on the scenic treatment around the junction and river crossing at one end of my layout. Starting to feel it coming together slowly and just about ready to pour the Woodland Scenics water in the river bed. The white strip at the front is a raised extension to the fascia to hold the water back; it'll be painted green eventually to blend in. The loco is 34103 Calstock, renumbered from a Hornby Blandford, and with the tender swapped for the correct type. Al
  9. My ruling radius on the mainline is 30 inches (although it gets squeezed a bit tighter here and there). I've got one siding which is tighter than that, so probably somewhere between 24 and 28 inches and stock has to be pushed and pulled through it during shunting. Certainly no problems with typical 4 wheel stock, up to say CCTs, and small tank and tender locos, but I've not tried pushing really long wheelbase stock through it very systematically. I've occasionally had to fiddle with the couplings on the mainline where there's a loco with a large rear-end throw (such as a large prairie or Fowler 4MT) pulling some wagon or coach which also has a long throw. The solution in that case is just to make the goalpost bit as wide as possible to allow maximum deflection of the hook. In general I would say there is a good chance of getting S&Ws to work on somewhat tighter curves than the quoted 30 inches. provided you're prepared to experiment and perhaps accept that some stock can't be marshalled next to other items.
  10. Speaking of Spams, a friend directed me to this video of Hornby locos on the Neville Grove model railway. I hadn't heard of the layout before but the footage (not just in this video but in the other ones put up) is some of the best I've ever seen of model trains, in any scale. I know the layout won't be to everyone's taste (it's a kind of run-anything fictitious setting, but very nicely done in my opinion) but the close-up action of the locos, combined with some seriously good weathering, really takes it to another level. I don't know how it's done, because if you've ever tried following a loco at speed with a camera, while keeping a tight focus, it's incredibly hard!
  11. It does happen, though, if the train is long enough - it's what they call string-lining in the States: https://www.trainorders.com/discussion/read.php?1,3867570
  12. Yes, that's just what I did - two screws undone, and bodies swapped. They needed a bit of persuasion to unclip from the base but nothing major.
  13. Happy to report that the tender swap was very easy, with the body fixings being unchanged. I couldn't just swap the tenders as the polarity was indeed different between the two models (why, Hornby?).
  14. I don't know why that casing is present on the later model of Blandford, and not my earlier one. Presumably a production boo-boo by Hornby.
  15. I'm not in the mood for spraying at the moment so I'll be looking to avoid any repainting.
  16. I do have plates for both Eddystone and Dorchester. So If I've got this right, I could put Westward Ho's tender top onto Calstock, then Calstock's tender onto Westward and rename it either 28 or 42? (my three rebuilts are Westard Ho, 17 squadron and Yes Tor, by the way).
  17. My only option for swapping a tender body would be from my existing three rebuilts, of which I think 34036 Westward Ho might be suitable, if I'm understanding my tender types, but then I'd need to find a new identity for 34036.
  18. Bath initially (34040, 34041, 34042) then Bournemouth I think.
  19. They were introduced on the line in the very early fifties and saw use on everything from long-distance expresses such as the Pines to local services.
  20. Oops, I had a horrible suspicion about that, confirmed by a rear 3/4 shot of Calstock in "Portrait of the Pines Express" I came across a couple of nights ago. Would Lapford have been a better choice? It may be easier to order a new set of plates, rather than locate a replacement tender.
  21. Hi Andy Thanks, I just cleared images and forms in addition to the cookies done last night and that seems to have cleared it. best, Al
  22. Still can't post on Chrome. When I try to reply to anything, all I get is the grey box for uploading images. I also wasn't able to post a status update.
  23. Hi Andy - logging in via MS Edge now, and that's cleared it. I'll see if it's still there on Chrome, which is what I usually use. Many thanks.
  24. AY Mod testing Barry Ten's login for posting.
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