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traction last won the day on December 24 2009

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  1. Hi Gentlemen, I apologise for putting this here but thought it would be seen better by those who actually want it. To those that are requiring a DCC concepts ADS-8SX I have one that is surplus to requirements, It was fitted to a layout and used a couple of times while the layout was being built, I then dismantled the layout and its not been used since. I don't have the blister pack it came in, but I do have the instructions I bought it new from Hattons for £68 in Nov 2019 Price is £60 + P&P which will be next day special delivery upto 500g which is £7.40 Payment by Paypal Drop me a PM if you're interested. Cheers Ian
  2. Cool, I find it a great way of getting the layout up and running very quickly. I was thinking about the wiring above the baseboard, you could use thin copper tape either side of the track and solder wires from the track to the copper 'go's The copper tape can easily be painted over or hidden with scenery. Cheers Ian
  3. It was a one off special that was done for me. A very long time Ago now. I was told it wouldn't be done again. Sorry Cheers Ian
  4. The sound file was a complete one pre-installed. Why don’t the clips fit streamline points? Ive bought a pack of them and bent them to fit in an N-gauge point so I can’t see why the wouldn’t be able to fit. cheers Ian
  5. Hi, This photo shows the Hornby point clips fitted. Also a short video, this is a basic layout for children to play with at exhibitions and for me to test stuff on, hopefully get it finished soon! There are only two wires from the Hornby Select to the track. Point clips have been fitted to all of the points. The points are fitted with Peco low Power point motors fitted direct to the points, these are controlled by the Peco passing contact switches via a CDU. All really basic DCC stuff and two wires, I do it this way initially so I can have things running quickly and see if I like that track layout, it saves lots of soldering wires to track if I decide to change the track plan at any time. Hope this helps Cheers Ian
  6. Having still got my Mallard set and the Flying Scotsman Loco the biggest issue is size of layout and speed of loco. I wired the tracks as I normally do for DCC, that is a bus which was 2.5mm² twin&earth ring main. I then soldered some heay duty droppers to the track, to connect to the bus. This would easily handle the current from the controller. I made it so I could easily disconnect the Live steam controller and connect up a DCC controller and all worked fine. After the initial heat up time to get the water boiling I just turned the regulator down to simmer and could run for over 20mins on a full boiler. Once you got to grips with the lag and speed control it was good fun running them. The speed was pretty worrying though. Where I think Hornby went wrong was not giving enough information on how to actually drive these works of art. You really needed to practice on the rolling road to get to feel how the loco would run, each loco was completely different and that changed after they had been run in. Hornby didn't explain this well enough at all, and just gave a big oval with 3rd or 4th radius curves, the instructions being nowhere near good enough to control the locos correctly, so on first try you would end up with the loco flying around the first curve and very likely coming off, and that's where most people gave up! I would always run 3 coaches each filled with liquid gravity so that one coach would weigh about the same as 3 coaches. I managed to run it very well around a small oval (baseboard was less than the 6x4ft) but you did have to be very gentle with the throttle and always use the coaches to add that extra drag to reign the speed in. Still have them and the distilled water that you have to use in the boiler, just no longer have the layout to run them on, but will have one day......I hope! Cheers Ian
  7. Call Digitrains, ask them to take a selection of Controllers you are interested in and they will connect them up to the test track they take with them to exhibitions. If you want to operate sound locos, ask them to have a sound loco available for you to try and test ALL the functions to see how easy it is or isn't as the case maybe! There are very few controllers that show all functions that have been operated or which can be set to momentary or latching. As an example the easiest one I've played with at Digitrains, (I live close so its easy to drop in and have a play) is the Sig-naTrak ACE, one complete screen with every function button shown. You would need the handheld driver handset to give you the rotary control knob though. Again, try the systems, with sound locos so you can see just what you are letting yourself in for, also try the ones out of your budget, it will either make you save more for right system or prove you don't need that system Have fun in the process. Cheers Ian
  8. I would go to a shop and try any system BEFORE making a choice. Everyone has THEIR own system which works for THEM, doesnt mean it will work for you. The question you've asked has been answered many times before and everyone will have their own favourite system. Go to a good model shop that has systems available to try, I would Take your Train Tech Smart Screens with you so you can hook them up and see how easy different systems handle programming!! Not every controller which can program CV's is made equal and some can be a pain to program. If I was to go over to DCC now, thats what I would do, test first means you won't be disappointed later. If going to a shop call them first and let them know what you want to do, it allows them to make time for you. Same with exhibitions if you cant get to a shop, one it will allow them to take possible controllers with them that your interested in and tell you the best time to get to the stand to try different systems, normally late afternoons when it goes quiet. Saying all of this, the one that springs to mind with a nice clear LCD display that you liked and easy to program CV's is the Sig-naTrak ACE2 controller:- https://www.signatrak.co.uk/products/ace-dcc-controller-accessories/dcs2044-ace-15-48 I don't have one of these but have had a test of one at Digitrains in Lincoln as they have so many set up on the demo layout. This is touch screen, so again may not be what you would like hence try everything BEFORE you buy. Cheers Ian
  9. Unfortunately adding more things into the circuit wont increase the voltage being lost so these terminator/snubber units seem a bit of an expense to me. I don't have a PowerCab anymore but I did notice that after running locos on the EZ-command or the Hornby Elite or Select everything did appear to run much slower. I believe this was down to the PSU being a much lower and better voltage on the PowerCab. I have had 3 locos running and one with sound using the PowerCab but never had these issues. Cheers Ian
  10. You're saying heads up in the thread for epsiode 5 which starts with:- Might pay to read this thread from the first post. Cheers Ian
  11. A different type of Signal Box now available:- https://scalescenes.com/product/r010a-arp-signalbox/ Cheers Ian
  12. A DCC fiited loco will run on DC, if the chip can support it and its been switched on! You can change a CV to switch off running in DC, to prevent the loco from running away at fast speed when using DCC. As you don't have a DCC controller, I would as you've said refit the blanking plug and test that way, at least you will know the loco is working correctly. Cheers Ian
  13. It always makes me smile when people say you can't or shouldn't use a ring main as the power bus. All of my layouts are using a ring bus as all of the layouts are complete ovals, never been an issue, if it was I wouldn't do it. Seems rather backwards to have a radial bus if what you're connecting to is a complete ring! Although I could be missing the blatantly obvious. Cheers Ian
  14. The new China Clay facilities kit has now been released! Looks like another cracking kit. Link below:- https://scalescenes.com/product/t029-china-clay-loading-facilities/ Cheers Ian
  15. Hi, Ron is correct my review was using the AC power supply that comes with the old EZ Command controller. By replacing the supplied AC power supply with a variable type I was able to lower the input voltage which in turn dropped the track voltage to a much better level. I was measuring about 20v on the track, way too high. So you do need to worry about the input voltage, with this OLD type power supply. Cheers Ian
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