traction

Another great show, and a big thanks to the chefs looking after us with the bacon and sausage sandwiches!! A shame the Hornby TT120 set let me down on Sunday but at least people could see it in the flesh! Cheers Ian

Hi Alexander, I would try a post on the Hornby website forum as they have a dedicated thread with lots of Railmaster users who might be able to assist you better. At which point is it failing to work? When you install Railmaster onto you PC there is a PDF guide, might be out of date, so go to the Hornby website as there are updated pdf documents that will go through exactly what you need to do to install and set it all up. I have found that you need to follow the instructions exactly relating to your Windows versoin otherwise it can go wrong and not work correctly! Regards Ian

I agree, any scenery will get damaged, but as that has a fixed middle is there anyway to reverse the hinges so each side lifts up? If that's possible then the scenery would be protected as the two halves would lift and the scenery would face each other. Just a quick comment, Not really looked into hinges or anything. Cheers Ian

Some of the plastic kit spray varnish will bleach all of the colour out of the printed sheets, have a guess how I found that out! I use inkjet fixative spray varnish. Cheers Ian

I have the same controller and using the recommended 15v DC 2amp power supply. The output from power supply I'm using is 14.88V DC. When measured at the track with a volt meter set to AC i'm getting a reading of slightly over 16v AC I've not had the issues you are having but then again I'm running on a small N-gauge Layout but even the BUS wires I'm using on this are 1.0mm² Speak to Bill who makes the controller and writes the APP, he's always available to help if required. EDIT:- Just seen Bill has replied!

Hi Have just bought this system to try out. I've never really been a fan of using PC's or touch screens to run a Loco much preferring to use a rotary control knob. Touch screens are great for operating points though! This is was all packaged up very nicely inside a cardboard box. Conections to go to the track and the 2amp 15v input to power it all. Inside the box! This is just the interface between the APP and the layout. This is the WiFi version which allows more than one Andriod device to be connected, the Bluetooth version only allows one Andriod device. The app is Locomotive Wifi DCC 3 which can be found in the play store. I have been trying the basics out and it all works rather well! You set upto 50 locos in the roster and then call them up into the throttle screen where you can switch between 4 locos. You can name each loco and each function for that loco, also select which of the 28 functions are latching or momentary, great if you have more than one horn and don't wish to keep turning it on/off. Turnouts also work with no issues and again can be named to suit your layout. The CV read/write operates with no issues on my mixed bag of decoders so all good. For the price I think its a very good solution. I'm in no way connected to this, just thought I'd post a quick overview. Will post a full review once I've had more time playing, but so far so good! There is no separate progamming track but I'm used to that and have a DPDT switch set up to flick between main track and program track. Link below to ebay for the different modules or even a bare PCB if you want to build one yourself! https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/cuthbertw/m.html?item=233936143653&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 I have been in contact with the designer and Bill has come back to me very quickly taking on board some of my comments to improve the app. Any questions just ask and I will do my best to answer. Cheers Ian

Yes the R8247 will work fine with the Elite.

Well what can I say? There was too many of XXXXX type layouts so nothing of interest to me. Far too many traders instead of layouts The car parking and food was a rip off. Not enough room between layouts so you couldn't get to see tham all, thyis lead to being constantly hit by rucksacks! Don't get me started on the crap signs so ended up missing loads of stuff. The entrance fee was way too high! Wont be bothering again. Look someone had to do it just to make you feel warm and cosy inside An outstanding job to ALL at BRM for making this happen very enjoyable weekend. I very much enjoyed Phil's layout build, an N-gauge version would be a very nice diversion! Working in the food indsutry never been so busy, lock down what lock down! Thanks again to all those involved. Ian

Yes, bought the set at the weekend! not unpacked it yet, and working away from home! Once I get it on a base board I will post it here. Got to say it’s a very nice set! Yes it has a proper sound chip which the EZ-Command won’t be able to do it justice, but it will control the first 10 functions its bomb proof and you could easily sell it if not required! Got mine at Mansfield model rail exhibition from Benhams trains and things. web site below http://benhamsonline.com/ I had the last one but he was going to order more. The price was outstanding! Give David a phone call and ask if he can get one in for you! Cheers Ian

Another great weekend. Today seemed quieter than usual, but still busy. A big thanks to the Scouts for looking after us with food and drink. A great relaxed family show. Cheers Ian

Nice Gareth! Will have to pop in when I get time! Not been in for a good while now, shops looking good! Cheers Ian

Gaugemaster prodigy express with Wi-Fi module. Then use appropriate app on Android or IPhone to control everything. Cheers Ian

I think that comment is somewhat unfair and not a little rude. If you listen to Laurie's interview with Jenny (link posted earlier) he does explain about the limitations he was working to, be that time or using existing models. He also says what he would liked to have done. So to just post a comment saying they chose the wrong consultant is harsh to say the least. I for one will be ordering a set of the locos as I think they are actually pretty good, the kids at an exhibition would love them on a suitable layout. Steampunk seems to be a broad term, this range looks to be a starting point. We all are aware that we need to bring new people in to the hobby this could be a great start. Cheers Ian

Chrissaf, did an excellent tutorial on the Hornby forum for this:- https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/forum/programming-accessory-decoders/?p=1/ Just scroll through the thread to find the star of his post, it's quitw long but very useful. That should help. Cheers Ian

Hi Nigel, Have you looked at the Team Digital SMD84? It will do the easy addressing but it's also quite a useful but of kit that can be programmed to do routes etc. Has a built in CDU as well. I have two of the SMD82 units, the only difference being the Loconet support. They will operate two solenoid from one output! Might be worth looking at? https://www.digitrains.co.uk/shop-by-brand/team-digital/smd84.html Above is a link to Digitrains as they have some in stock. http://www.teamdigital1.com/prod_catalogue/smd84_product/smd84.html The above is a link to the Team Digital web site where you can download the manual. Some of it looks daunting at first but it can be easy or more complicated to set up depending on what you want it to do. Just a thought. Cheers Ian

ADS8fX now sold. Cheers Ian

Cool, I find it a great way of getting the layout up and running very quickly. I was thinking about the wiring above the baseboard, you could use thin copper tape either side of the track and solder wires from the track to the copper 'go's The copper tape can easily be painted over or hidden with scenery. Cheers Ian

It was a one off special that was done for me. A very long time Ago now. I was told it wouldn't be done again. Sorry Cheers Ian

The sound file was a complete one pre-installed. Why don’t the clips fit streamline points? Ive bought a pack of them and bent them to fit in an N-gauge point so I can’t see why the wouldn’t be able to fit. cheers Ian

Hi, This photo shows the Hornby point clips fitted. Also a short video, this is a basic layout for children to play with at exhibitions and for me to test stuff on, hopefully get it finished soon! There are only two wires from the Hornby Select to the track. Point clips have been fitted to all of the points. The points are fitted with Peco low Power point motors fitted direct to the points, these are controlled by the Peco passing contact switches via a CDU. All really basic DCC stuff and two wires, I do it this way initially so I can have things running quickly and see if I like that track layout, it saves lots of soldering wires to track if I decide to change the track plan at any time. Hope this helps Cheers Ian

Having still got my Mallard set and the Flying Scotsman Loco the biggest issue is size of layout and speed of loco. I wired the tracks as I normally do for DCC, that is a bus which was 2.5mm² twin&earth ring main. I then soldered some heay duty droppers to the track, to connect to the bus. This would easily handle the current from the controller. I made it so I could easily disconnect the Live steam controller and connect up a DCC controller and all worked fine. After the initial heat up time to get the water boiling I just turned the regulator down to simmer and could run for over 20mins on a full boiler. Once you got to grips with the lag and speed control it was good fun running them. The speed was pretty worrying though. Where I think Hornby went wrong was not giving enough information on how to actually drive these works of art. You really needed to practice on the rolling road to get to feel how the loco would run, each loco was completely different and that changed after they had been run in. Hornby didn't explain this well enough at all, and just gave a big oval with 3rd or 4th radius curves, the instructions being nowhere near good enough to control the locos correctly, so on first try you would end up with the loco flying around the first curve and very likely coming off, and that's where most people gave up! I would always run 3 coaches each filled with liquid gravity so that one coach would weigh about the same as 3 coaches. I managed to run it very well around a small oval (baseboard was less than the 6x4ft) but you did have to be very gentle with the throttle and always use the coaches to add that extra drag to reign the speed in. Still have them and the distilled water that you have to use in the boiler, just no longer have the layout to run them on, but will have one day......I hope! Cheers Ian

Call Digitrains, ask them to take a selection of Controllers you are interested in and they will connect them up to the test track they take with them to exhibitions. If you want to operate sound locos, ask them to have a sound loco available for you to try and test ALL the functions to see how easy it is or isn't as the case maybe! There are very few controllers that show all functions that have been operated or which can be set to momentary or latching. As an example the easiest one I've played with at Digitrains, (I live close so its easy to drop in and have a play) is the Sig-naTrak ACE, one complete screen with every function button shown. You would need the handheld driver handset to give you the rotary control knob though. Again, try the systems, with sound locos so you can see just what you are letting yourself in for, also try the ones out of your budget, it will either make you save more for right system or prove you don't need that system Have fun in the process. Cheers Ian

I would go to a shop and try any system BEFORE making a choice. Everyone has THEIR own system which works for THEM, doesnt mean it will work for you. The question you've asked has been answered many times before and everyone will have their own favourite system. Go to a good model shop that has systems available to try, I would Take your Train Tech Smart Screens with you so you can hook them up and see how easy different systems handle programming!! Not every controller which can program CV's is made equal and some can be a pain to program. If I was to go over to DCC now, thats what I would do, test first means you won't be disappointed later. If going to a shop call them first and let them know what you want to do, it allows them to make time for you. Same with exhibitions if you cant get to a shop, one it will allow them to take possible controllers with them that your interested in and tell you the best time to get to the stand to try different systems, normally late afternoons when it goes quiet. Saying all of this, the one that springs to mind with a nice clear LCD display that you liked and easy to program CV's is the Sig-naTrak ACE2 controller:- https://www.signatrak.co.uk/products/ace-dcc-controller-accessories/dcs2044-ace-15-48 I don't have one of these but have had a test of one at Digitrains in Lincoln as they have so many set up on the demo layout. This is touch screen, so again may not be what you would like hence try everything BEFORE you buy. Cheers Ian

Unfortunately adding more things into the circuit wont increase the voltage being lost so these terminator/snubber units seem a bit of an expense to me. I don't have a PowerCab anymore but I did notice that after running locos on the EZ-command or the Hornby Elite or Select everything did appear to run much slower. I believe this was down to the PSU being a much lower and better voltage on the PowerCab. I have had 3 locos running and one with sound using the PowerCab but never had these issues. Cheers Ian

You're saying heads up in the thread for epsiode 5 which starts with:- Might pay to read this thread from the first post. Cheers Ian