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  1. Very sad news indeed. I had the pleasure of meeting Peter and Ginny on a couple of occasions, lovely people. I have a couple of his more whimsical books, and a couple of his prints as well. A highly gifted artist, and a true gent.
  2. And I should also mention that there's a couple of Unimat Yahoo groups, one for the DB/SL and one for the later machines (Unimat 3 onwards).
  3. Had the same problem with my U3. Luckily I found an electric motor specialist not far from home who took the job on. They stripped and cleaned the thing out for £20. It was the smallest motor that they'd seen, they usually deal with larger jobs for woodworking equipment. So, try googling for motor repairers in your area, you might get lucky.
  4. Your Antex is the perfect tool for the job. Cored solder should work but its far better to use 145 degree solder (as sold for etched kits) and phosphoric acid flux, Eileens will have everything that you need. Make sure that the work is clean, (a scratch brush is usefull) and that the tip of the iron is tinned properly (that it has a thin coat of solder, if in doubt clean the tip and re-tin). Practising on scrap etch is time well spent.
  5. Some waffle and out-of-focus pics regarding turning boiler fitting on the Unimat on me blog for them wots interested. The Unimat is a fine machine for 4mm work, I use mine on the dining table.
  6. Q.scapes - is your tapered brake standard flanged top and bottom? If so try holding the finished item gently in a 3 jaw or better still a collet gripping the job by the top flange and the part of the column that is of equal diameter (so that the job is held in two places). Then, rather than turn a spigot, drill a hole and insert a length of suitable sized rod. Another dodge would be to hold the job on its largest dia. with the outside of the jaws butting up to the bottom flange, with a modicum of care the job will run true enough. Carefull work with a drill won't put any undue pressure on the job, allowing a gentle grip, and of course there's no sideways pressure to worry about. I have done this myself, both when drilling out tapered chimneys (using a home made split collet) and making a brake standard for a OO9 small quarry Hunslet.
  7. A nice little kit. As others have said the spud isn't too bad, having a heavy w/m body on top tames the running and swapping the wheels isn't difficult. I used epoxy when building mine, which can be seen here.
  8. The shed is now almost completely flattened now, I say almost as part of the back wall has been left standing alongside the public footpath running behind the shed. The oil tanks and associated buildings have also gone. Some photos on me blog. The building was in a terrible state, with large cracks in the outer walls and a huge hole in the roof. It was also regularly broken into by vandals and I know that the local police have wanted the building demolished for quite a while.
  9. A neat job on an awkward kit. I've built three so far, one for myself and two for a customer, and can honestly say that it requires a fair amount of work, but the results are worth the effort. But, and I've said this before, its not a Summers wagon but an ICI one despite what the packaging says. The body is higher and longer than on the Summers wagons, check the position of the end of the hopper against the bogie pivot point for example. One worthwhile improvement is to substitute Cambrian brake wheels for the flat etched ones supplied. It'll look great once painted.
  10. Tender - that does indeed look like a pipe centre in your last photo, very usefull for tube work. But make sure that the end of the tube is square before using it (either filed square or faced off) otherwise the tube will be held eccentrically. They come in all sizes, I used to use one that was at least 300mm dia. Rather heavy to lift... The handle is interesting, and nicely made. I've seen a photo of a similar one fitted to a Unimat SL in Laidlaw Dickson's 'The Book of the Unimat', used (by an editor of 'Model Engineering') for turning cast iron at low speed. As you suggest it looks very usefull for cutting threads, either with tap or die holder.
  11. Interesting youtube video that. Note the m/c running in reverse, suggesting that the operator (I wouldn't describe him as a turner) is unskilled, and running at fairly low revs as well. Gloves are a big no-no, as are loose sleeves. And I would have moved the saddle out of the way and covered the bed with card to protect it from dust. Polishing isn't usually a problem (I used to do a fair amount of long shaft work, and often polished jobs in a similar fashion) as long as both hands are used so that the paper/emery cloth can be gripped at each end, so if it does grab its easy to let go. And use a long strip of cloth to keep hands away from the job. But the main problem appears to be training, as in the lad looks he's had none!
  12. Thanks for the replies - much appreciated. Now I just need to find a blowtorch (I didn't see any in the local DIY emporium yesterday). The reason that I want to use silver steel is that I can file the cutter to shape, harden it, then lightly finish with a stone.
  13. A quick query, I've made a cutter from silver steel and want to harden it (a little overkill perhaps as it will only be used on brass but hey, good practice and all that). This means heating to cherry red and quenching in water. The cutter is 4mm dia. and 10mm long. Would a domestic common or garden blowtorch do the job (the ones that sit on a butan/propane canister)? I'm not used to heating things up and haven't currently got such a torch to hand. The cutter by the way is for flycutting chimney/dome bases.
  14. You forgot to mention that your kits are good value, well designed, have detailed instructions, and are of interesting prototypes. The after sales service is good as well. Some kits fit onto RTR motor bogies so would be suitable for a novice who doesn't want to try their hand at chassis building.
  15. A little off-beat perhaps, but the RT Models Hudson side tipper is I feel a well-designed kit with good instructions. Its made from nickel silver so takes solder nicely, there's plenty of rivets to punch out which is good practice, all parts fit as they should and there's only a couple of (small) curves to form. It also comes as a complete kit with wheels. There is some fiddly folding to do, especially on the chassis. But two chassis etches are included, for OO and EM/P4, so you can practice on the one you don't want which is what I did. My build can be seen here.
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