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  1. Nice work there. For some reason I didn't think to turn the old axles down, possibly because my method was based on something that I read in an old EMGS manual that used wagon wheels and 2mm axles. The reason that I used Romford wheels was because it would be easy to convert one side for live pick-ups. A Myford would be nice, but I don't think it would fit on my dining table, which is where I use the Unimat.
  2. Thank you Sarah. Yes, having a lathe is very useful, even if all it does is free you from searching around for the right size bearings and bushes etc. I can't imagine that knurled wheels would be of any use for cleaning track, quite the opposite perhaps if they slip and scratch the surface, smoother track being more conductive (micro-scratches can fill with dirt). My first DS, which I've had since I was about 5 or 6, has smooth wheels but will be fitted with Romfords at some stage,
  3. I have now finished re-wheeling one of my Dock Shunters. Here's a blog post describing the job, its too long to cut & paste here so a link will have to suffice.
  4. Thank you again Sarah. It looks like the armatures are the same across all the motor bogies, which is handy as I have an old DMU motor bogie that I acquired for its gears, which now might end up donating its armature to the Dock Shunter sat in front of me.
  5. Another question if I may, do the Dock Shunter and Tri-ang DMU power bogies share the same armature?
  6. Thank you Sarah. So it seems that the worm gear was shared amongst several designs, which does make sense. Now to track a couple down.
  7. As it happens I have a Dock Shunter heading for my workbench which I intend to re-wheel. Mine is from the early seventies and has plastic gears on the axles. I would like to keep the original axles intact, so I'll be making up new axles. So, are those plastic gears available seperately?
  8. I did source one in the end, but cannot remember from where. Job done now.
  9. Both the Unimat 3 and the SL use M8 x 1 threads for the lead and cross slide screws rather than M6, as you say very sensible and convenient. Leadscrews are left hand thread, which makes it a bit of a sod when trying to source a decent tap to clear out a bunged up cross slide thread...
  10. Looking at eBay listings and it seems that the SL/DB is far more common than the 3, which in turn is more common than the 4. It would be interesting to know how many of each model were made. The bed bars on the SL are 12mm by the way. And are the weak spot of the design.
  11. Another option would be to set up the Unimat 3 as a mill/drill press (assuming that you still have access to it), perhaps not as good or as versatile as the Proxxon but would take up less bench space.
  12. Very sad news indeed. I had the pleasure of meeting Peter and Ginny on a couple of occasions, lovely people. I have a couple of his more whimsical books, and a couple of his prints as well. A highly gifted artist, and a true gent.
  13. And I should also mention that there's a couple of Unimat Yahoo groups, one for the DB/SL and one for the later machines (Unimat 3 onwards).
  14. Had the same problem with my U3. Luckily I found an electric motor specialist not far from home who took the job on. They stripped and cleaned the thing out for £20. It was the smallest motor that they'd seen, they usually deal with larger jobs for woodworking equipment. So, try googling for motor repairers in your area, you might get lucky.
  15. Your Antex is the perfect tool for the job. Cored solder should work but its far better to use 145 degree solder (as sold for etched kits) and phosphoric acid flux, Eileens will have everything that you need. Make sure that the work is clean, (a scratch brush is usefull) and that the tip of the iron is tinned properly (that it has a thin coat of solder, if in doubt clean the tip and re-tin). Practising on scrap etch is time well spent.
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