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Il Grifone

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  • Location
    Essex next to the LT&SR and Sardinia Costa dei Grifoni
  • Interests
    GWR, DSB, FS, ATSF and SP. and trains in general.

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  1. Lima wheels are rather coarse and the profile is not too good. They have a short axle (24.5mm) and Hornby or Bachmann axles are longer than this. It is possible to swop the axles, but the non-insulated Lima wheel is fixed really tightly to the axle. Meths is fine for acrylic paint. It shouldn't have any effect on the plastic. Test a single piece first. However as long as the running surface is clean, for hidden track the rest is of little importance. Scratched rail surfaces with not affect the running, but do tend to pick up dirt.
  2. True and I suppose being out of print raises the price for a second hand copy. It was available through one of those reprint subscription companies once, but I missed out. I paid £18 for my Dublo volume back in the early eighties (I suppose inflation takes that over £60 in today's weak currency), but they did throw in a 'Pugh & Co.' wagon - the one Hornby gave away with a new loco. It's stashed away somewhere in the hope it might be valuable 'one day'.... Apparently my thought of, "About a fiver" was correct. https://picclick.it/Hornby-OO-gauge-2-x-Pugh-and-Co-174983706221.html
  3. On consideration*, I realised that the German coaches have Liliput couplings. The give away here is that the coupling is secured by a circular dual purpose spring which serves both as centring spring and to hold the thing in place. Ingenious! (possibly not on all vehicles?) * By chance, I'm currently restoring a Liliput CIWL sleeping car that has suffered enemy action. One headstock/steps unit has been chopped off from its bogie (a previous owner - not guilty!) and the other damaged. The gold lettering is going to require redoing as well, having been badly rubbed. I was thinking of a gold paint pen - it's raised detail not a transfer, but has anyone any better ideas? There is rather large wet obstacle to running Swedish coaches in Denmark. Yes, I know there are ferries.... On the other hand just replace the SJ with DSB and the job is done. The red is much the same colour and the other lettering is too small to read anyway (at least at my age!).
  4. I've never had a suppressor* capacitor fail. Ceramic capacitors (at least British ones) are pretty foolproof. Easy enough to check- just disconnect one end. Conveniently it's held by a screw. That's short circuit; open circuit would have no effect at all (apart from nearby TV/radio sets). Apart from the wax coated Dublo ones. Not that these fail as such, the wax just gets cruddy. Electrolytic capacitors are a different argument!
  5. That's a bargain! The last one I saw they wanted sixty quid for it! This is a first edition too! There's also 10% off for a first order! I'm tempted, but unfortunately am out of the country.... SWMBO said I have too many books already!
  6. It's probably a standard gear with 0.5mm module (as used by Lima). These are available from China cheaply, but with a long delay in transit. Proops (eBay) used to sell them but may not have them now (usual disclaimer).
  7. I can confirm that it is an X.03 with what I call the 'Front axle drive (FAD for short) chassis'. The worm is black plastic and the gear grey plastic with 28 teeth. Raising the gear ratio from the earlier version means it is only capable of about 100 mph scale. Fitting these wheels, axles, and gears improves an earlier chassis no end. The drivers have 15 spokes which is correct for a Jinty, but not a 2721, which should have 16. You have to look hard to spot it however, whereas the early Tri-ang wheels had a generous surfeit of spokes* and enormous flanges and hit you in the eye. The spiral on the worm goes the other way underneath and so meshes correctly with the gear. It wouldn't work at all otherwise. First step is to clean off all the white grease and re-lubricate with plastic compatible oil. Pulling the worm slightly further down the armature shaft might help. It could be rubbing against the motor bearing. The later puny looking motors have a 40 tooth gear, but still go like the proverbial bat out of H*ll! These are usually fitted to the SSPP chassis - the one with traction tyres on the centre axle and a floppy sprung rear axle. * Italian modellers call these abominations 'millerazzi' (1000 spokes - there is a splendid example on the rear axle of a Rivarossi Gr. 680/685 2-6-2!). Surely it would have been easier and cheaper to make a die with the right number?
  8. The X.03 gears are quite coarse and mesh is not usually a problem. I'd check for burrs/damage to the gears. I have several of these chassis and all run smoothly. Is the motor seated properly?
  9. IIRC 'African Queen' was staple Boxing Day fare every year.... An advantage of the capsules was that, since the adhesive was semi useless, they were easy to dismantle again (sometimes all by themselves!).
  10. It's definitely something to do when SWMBO is otherwise engaged! (One of the reasons I haven't tried it yet...). Zinc pest is one of those things that have been known about since forever, but still occur today; (e.g. zinc pest -1928, asbestos - 1911 (IIRC but not far off), global warming late 19th century...).
  11. I didn't, but the error was easy enough to do seeing the coupling rod was right next to the turntable handrail.
  12. They are a pair of 'thunder boxes' (obviously referring to their comfort while travelling!*) and obviously of German or Austrian manufacture. AFAIK British Trix had divided completely from Trix Express at this time. * I understand that, apart from the noise from a metal body on four wheels, they also inflicted wooden seats on their unfortunate occupants. I can speak personally for the Italian version - on bogies (usually - there were four and six wheel versions), but bad enough! Originally these were third class, but were upgraded to second on the abolition of third by the simple expedient of sticking a '2' on the door. I did my best to avoid them, but it wasn't always possible.
  13. I built quite a few back in the day (badly!). A new locomotive every month for pennies was too much to resist! I even built the Italian 835 class 0-6-0T* (some sort of premonition?). The coach kits were a great loss, though I have managed to amass a lot of them over the years, often at bargain prices like a couple of quid. * Making it to 4mm scale was an error. 1:80 or 1:87 would have increased sales abroad. The French and German coaches remedied this but by then it was too late.
  14. I have a first series Farish prairie body, which is being fitted to a later chassis. For some reason they altered the mountings, so a bit of modification is required. However Brexit and Covid have put this project on hold (and a load of others...). Rivarossi were very subject to zinc pest. I have a early version of the C16 0-4-0ST. She was fine when I bought her (around 1980) but I was distressed to find the die cast cylinder block split into three pieces some years later. I acquired a slightly later version as a replacement. However a scrap Lima Alco (allegedly) 0-4-0 provided new cylinders and proper connecting rods and slide bars. Rivarossi-Memory has a 'cure' for the pest (in Italian, but Google Translate will deal with that*). I have some pieces to try, but having to 'cook' things involving nasty chemicals has put me off. http://www.rivarossi-memory.it/Tecnica/Peste_Zama_cura/Curare_peste_zama.htm * Other on-line translation tools are available.
  15. I can see that my decision to not use tension locks was correct. The relevant NEM standard (362) is here: https://www.morop.org/index.php/fr/nem-normes.html NEM 363 the fishtail type is available in English. (7utghy,,,gv*) I'm not 100% convinced by this quote, "Through the elasticity of the receiver, the coupler is held in place, but remains height adjustable". There appears to be a snag in that the top of the (H0) pocket is at 8.5mm above railhead whereas 00 tension locks require 9.5mm. (From measurement - almost certainly 3/8" originally, but we won't argue over 0.1mm.) * Typed by the dog requesting, "Walkies".
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