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Il Grifone

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  • Location
    Essex next to the LT&SR and Sardinia Costa dei Grifoni
  • Interests
    GWR, DSB, FS, ATSF and SP. and trains in general.

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  1. Some time ago I purchased a Tri-ang Britannia (the price was right!). On getting her home and test running I was surprised to see smoke (well fumes really) come from the chimney, as I didn't realise I'd acquired a 'smoking' one. The unit was speedily disconnected. The idea of selling the smoke pipe is good, but I suspect the item has been lost over the years. They fall out quite easily. Quote: "Rooting through it I found a plastic bag with around a hundred elements in it - when I asked them what they wanted for it they asked for a pound...." They probably thought t
  2. Thanks Sarah, that's very informative! The smoke oil attacks the plastic and the unit can overheat and melt it. I was very annoyed when this gimmick first appeared, as I needed a Tri-ang R.59 2-6-2T chassis to motorise a Kitmaster Prairie kit*. It resulted in a roughly 50% increase in the cost of the project (the thing added about £1 to the price of the locomotives). IMHO the effect is nothing like the exhaust of a real steam locomotive which is normally dense and white (or black if you are American!) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrxPpKzsDn8&ab_cha
  3. An excess of oil and or grease can attract dust and other muck and (especially grease) dry out and cause the mechanism to seize up or at least run sluggishly.
  4. I'll take your word for it Garry. I've never seen a specification for Tri-ang back to back, but wheelsets I've measured seem to 13.8mm. I'll have to dig out a polystyrene point and check that.
  5. Thanks for the sympathy. It's sunny today, but there is a chill wind blowing.
  6. It might be wear causing the uncoupling ramp to not stay up, but it could be deformation of the ramp itself. What brought up the query in the first place was was that one of the two I have did stay up until I straightened out the ramp, which was higher at one end when raised. Straying a bit off Tri-ang track - some is relevant some less so. It is essential that Dublo/Peco couplings are all the same height* and the knuckle is vertical. Spurious uncoupling is then a rarity. The drop pin needs to be vertical as well for successful uncoupling. The Peco Magni-Simplex is an i
  7. I would suspect that the US diesels are a smaller scale, but I have never measured them.
  8. That's what the Tri-ang double ended diesel is supposed to be. As stated rather primitive.... http://www.hornbyguide.com/article_details.asp?articleid=4
  9. Lima wheels are 11.5mm diameter (originally H0 - 1 metre) and Dublo 12mm. Both are too small for milk tanks, which had carriage diameter wheels (14mm). Someone will probably find one with 3 foot diameter wheels now! There were various designs of milk tank so there is no issue with mixing them. The best model probably can be made from the old K's kit, if you can find one! or in a different league http://website.rumneymodels.co.uk/milk-tanks I'm not sure about the flangeless wheels, but certainly DC brakes. https://www.ebay
  10. I've just found a second box of Standard Track! I'm not sure I can be bothered to sort this as well. Is the ramp of the terminal/uncoupling rail supposed to stay up? There doesn't appear to be any locking mechanism so I assume not.
  11. The Lone star were supposedly 000 scale (2mm to the foot), but how close to scale they are I have never checked. Seeing most of the rolling stock was Tri-ang inspired, I would think, "Not very".
  12. I'll try and post a photo of my repainted 'Montrose'. It'll be a while as I'm in Sardinia and she is in England. With the new wave of Coronavirus and 'No deal' it might be a considerable time. Flights to Stansted that get in just before midnight don't help. (You are not allowed to stay in the airport and public transport does not get me home at that hour.)
  13. The triang transcontinental is obviously supposed to be an F unit but is rather approximate. There is also a matching B unit and a double ended version, something like an Australian prototype. As can be seen from the video, the Tri-ang passenger cars are H0 scale. All the other models are H0 AFAIK.
  14. I believe the recommended practice is to taper the mortar from flush at the bottom to inset at the top, so that rainwater will drain off. Good luck trying to model this.... About 1/4" seems reasonable, though it does vary. Conversely flush brickpaper always looks wrong to me.
  15. A basic question. Am I correct in thinking these have aluminium tyres and are best left alone? Leaving aside conductivity, I believe aluminium is good at picking up muck? Many thanks in advance!
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