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  1. I decided to modify the track plan to have a double track through station. This has meant a reworking of the goods yard which is still work in progress but here are some photos of the work so far. The revised track work to accommodate the second line. The new track layout through the proposed station.
  2. I've not been doing much modelling over the last couple of months, mainly due to the fact I decided the shed interior needed painting to make it brighter and less shed like, so the top half of the shed is now white. I added lights to my Bachmann Brassworks Class 101 using some bicolour (warm white/red) LED's for the headlights and some old LED lighting strip for the interior. It needs some further work but here is the work so far and you can see the new white walls in the background.
  3. I've corrected the lights and changed the nearside red light to a warm white one, it still needs some tidying up around the lights. I have also been working on my Darstead Mk 1 Suburban Coaches and used some old LENZ LE1024 to control the tail light on the guards van and a new tail light on the coach at the other end, they are directional so no more lights in the wrong direction. I have added resistors to reduce the brightness of the internal lights but I need some higher rated resistors for the red and white small lights for both the Warshi
  4. Having got all the lights working on D832 I thought I'd have a Warship fest and run my Heljan Class 42 829 Magpie and noticed that the right hand light is not red but white, so as the saying goes back to the drawing board or should that be the circuit board! Luckily the way the board is made it shouldn't be too much trouble to change it.
  5. I've been experimenting with surrounds for the red lights as the original metal ones didn't survive the drill. I found the left hand hole was drilled out too high so I modify the hole to be level with the right hole and filled it with some good old fashioned Milliput. I used some plastic tube drilled out to the width of the red lights and then cut to approximately 1 mm height, not an easy task! Here is the results so far, it is annoying the camera highlights all the areas that need attention that the eye normally doesn't see!
  6. Today I decided to redo the light board, making it wider and allow for a much better fit. I also used some warm white LED's and as Andi suggested I've filed all the sides. Here is a comparison between the original board (top) and the new version. The back is a little neater too. As you can see from the two photos above the red lights are now solid to the board which gives a solid fit in the loco. I've still to do one set of headcodes so here is the unfinished end.
  7. Andi, Thanks for that, and it works well it was something I was wondering about certainly works. I will modify the current lights on the warship as can be seen on this photo the light is too concentrated in the centre. I increased the head code font size. I've found some warm white lights so I am going to give them a try.
  8. I have some warm white LEDS so worth a try. I live not to far from CPC Farnell in Preston and they have a wide range of LED's at very reasonable costs some lower than 10p each. The red LEDS I used for the tail lights are about 11p, there is someone on Ebay selling the same ones for £2.29 each £2.18 if you buy in bulk, a real case of buyer beware.
  9. The conversion of the PECO points is nearly complete, I've only three left to convert. I've decided not to convert the curved point on the lift up section for the time being as this is not intended to be a scenic section (yet!). The turntable now works on DCC as well as the keypad. I've been working on some locos. A couple of months ago I bought a DJH Warship from Ellis Clark Trains and this weekend I fitted headcode and tail lights. Today I fitted a Loksound V5 XL sound chip (thanks to Jeremy at Digitrains for the speedy service, I ordered it yesterday and it arrived t
  10. The turntable is up and running, not on DCC as yet but I am looking in to the options. Here is a short video of it working. Turntable on YouTube
  11. Today I've experimented with an alternative to double sided copper clad. I bought some bamboo wooden sticks which are 400 x 10 x 2 mm long so I cut some 60 x 3 x 2 mm tie bars, 2 mm is a little thicker than the copper clad but here is the first proof of concept. I've also done a little mod and filed a grove where the top of the pins rest, this makes sure the track the blades are always the same height as the rail. I've also used PECO Indervidulay Wooden Timbers and chairs on the sleepers between the ties and it looks a lot better and accurate, I
  12. I wasn't aware of that, I just assumed they were just earlier production models, so another plus point to Darstead Mk 1's.
  13. Hi Simon, I should have made it clearer and I meant using servos for point motors, I have used them for signals and I have other ideas for their use, but I haven't been convinced from what I've seen when used for point so far. Peter
  14. Rod, How about the Cobalt SS point motors, they are small and can be surface mounted. I think I may have some so I will investigate them tomorrow and give you some feed back. Like Simon I am not in favour of Servo's, a friend swears by them but the amount of noise they can make I'd be swearing at them! Peter
  15. HI Rod, I must admit I was wondering about the Dapol/Lionheart but they have plastic sides and I believe are thicker sides and the windows on plastic models never look quite right, so I decided to stay with Dartstead and their brass sides. I know this next bit may mean I have to seek medical help but I bought three more Mk 1's but in Western Region Chocolate and Cream on Monday whilst visiting Ellis Clarke Trains in Skipton. These new Mk 1's are an improvement on my original Darstead Blood and Custard Mk 1's. They have improved detailing around
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