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50033

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  1. Very exciting stuff and I will definitely be ordering some in Network Southeast livery. I do hope they do the bogies as spares.
  2. Why not unnumbered versions in the various liveries and allow us modellers to decide which loco we want. Provide simple rub on numbers for the masses. And please make the colours a better shade.
  3. Wow that looks stunning.
  4. As the 4TC is non motorised it only requires a function only chip. You can use a locomotive decoder but your system will need to register a motor to allow any programming hence you may need to put a loco on the programming track with the 4TC. I’ve also just posted in Butlers topic as to my solution. I’m going to see if the other decoders mentioned there have logic outputs.
  5. I’ve gone for a Zimo MX686 but had issues with the lighting. Something to do with logic outputs. All resolved now
  6. Thanks Paul. I will be wiring each led to a F0 to give full control. Only one rear red at each end as per the prototype. Mainly second mans side but maybe an odd one drivers side. I’ve seen plenty of loco movements with reds on and head lights too but no head code illumination. I don’t plan on too many changes once operating so might just stick with individual F buttons.
  7. Thanks Paul. Somehow knew you’d have the answers. Will go with the common positives then and a resister on each. It’s initially for a batch of class 50 with your sound project and I’d like to standardise all my locos to the same. I’d like individual control of headlight, head code box, cab light and tail lights hence I went with Zimo and adaplu in the first place. Is it still ok to wire a couple of LED’s to the common positive and just have a different FO control them?? Say rear reds with one resister value and the whites/yellows on the other with another resister value. Im modelling 1990’s so quite dim lights to be honest. I will experiment with various resisters. Then the fun Swiss mapping can commence. I will need help with that when I get that far.
  8. Thanks for the reply. Definitely got the 1.5v version. So maybe it’s worth wiring to the common positives and including a resister then.
  9. Afternoon people. I’m looking for some help please, regarding wiring a Zimo ADAPLU board. Ive settled on Zimo MX645 plux 22 decoders and rewiring my locos to use ADAPLU break out boards so that i can have multiple options with lighting. Having read and re read the instructions I’m struggling to know how to wire the lights in and if i need resistors. I think i need to wire the F outputs and use the low voltage pads rather than the comman positives. This would in my head mean no resistors required!!!! With this done I can then mess with the mapping to try and get control over rear lights on/off weather I’m light engine or attached to a train etc. Anyone tried this or understand if I’m heading down the right road please???
  10. I love those BOC tankers. They look so at home on Farkham. Always loved seeing this layout at exhibitions.
  11. Can’t wait to see this develop. Only seen the layout once at Stoke mandeville some years ago, but wow guy just wow. I’ve got 25 ARC pta’s and a Dapol DCC sound 59 on order if you need a spare operator in the future
  12. Nigel your a genius. Cv8 to 3 equals lights in F3. Thank you so much.
  13. Yeah thanks RFS but I’ve turned every single F on and off and nothing works for interior. I’m sure it’s something to do with the susi logic of the Zimo chip.
  14. Thanks for that. I did see about cv8 on another thread for locos so as I couldn’t find it in the function only instructions haven’t tried it yet. If nothing else is suggested that will be next to try. Thanks
  15. Afternoon all. Making the most of Kernow selling off some damaged box 4TC units, I’ve finally got my self a unit. I’m DCC so purchased a Zimo MX686 to fit. Having fitted the chip, I can’t get my interior lights working. So I read all the posts I can find on here and tried turning the susi off to normal operation by setting cv124 bit 7 to 1. Still nothing. Am I right in thinking I should be using F9 to operate the interior lights, because I’ve turned all 28 functions on my lens handset to on and still no joy. F0 turns head ode lights on and off and F1 and F2 turn individual ends off so it’s definitely working. I just can’t work out what else I can do.
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