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PMP last won the day on September 27 2009

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  1. This I think is probably an under appreciated and significant element. When I worked at MRM where a whole range of kits and components were available off the shelf, it was frequently difficult to get someone to buy a starter kit to build as an ‘apprenticeship’ before tackling more complex subjects. I’d often suggest that route, as the cost of the apprentice piece/s then, could easily be recovered by selling it on once completed. Quite frustrating to sell products where you knew the customer was likely to ‘fail’ and then possibly blame the kit/components for being the major part of that failure.
  2. No problems with mine, a useful dodge with screws behaving like that is to use a dab of PVA glue on the thread, it’ll set but not enough that you can’t undo the screw or damage it in the future
  3. John was a lovely bloke, I was privileged to watch him and get tips from him in his workshop. As far as I know John used to fix small personally etched builders plates to all of his commissions, they’re visible and discreet but they’d determine provenance if needed.
  4. It’s in a DJH Banbury box, so possibly a Comission build by them in Ye Olde Days. It’s with me currently, is there any definite way of determining kit origin? Wheels are Gibson’s (possibly MayGib) depending on build date.
  5. The Q6, and Ivatt mentioned by @Tony Wright above look good on layouts too
  6. Another thought, the 57’s have a centre sprung axle, check there’s no binding in its vertical movement. The centre axle sits in a holder of which the spring can sometimes be too stiff. On a couple of mine I’ve cut a coil from the spring and then gently stretched the remaining piece. NB pics show one from a 3F put same principle used in 57’s
  7. As it’s hidden chose material first then brand/aesthetics. I’d use Nickel silver rail and likely choose a Peco product. Peco because I’m familiar with its robust longevity and reliability, and it doesn’t deteriorate in northern temperate climates. I’d also use double dropper wires for redundancy, and engineer the top area to be removable for worst case scenario. If there are wide temperature fluctuations ensure that you’ve got good expansion gaps at the joints.
  8. I’ve got ‘some’ 2nd generation Bachmann panniers and 45xx’s, so far they are all excellent runners. The 64xx’s aren’t quite as refined as the 57 varieties. All three types 57/64/94 drive on the rear axle. The wheel sets on all three will drop out with base plate removal, and are a complete assembly including coupling rods. The coupling rods can be removed, you need a crankpin socket driver, but can’t be split unless you cut the rivet. The problem sounds like quartering, so removing the rods and tweeking whichever set/s is out is a practical fix. If however they’re new, it’s just as easy to return them. I think with the number I have that @NHY 581 has just been a bit unlucky. With a good one they are an excellent basis for tarting up. The same can be said for Bachmann’s 3F Jinty, ( I have ‘some’ of those too) which uses the same approach as the 57’s, however they aren’t quite as good in the finesse of the running, the worm to top gear not being as good as the panniers. The majority of my stock is second hand too.
  9. This is my Shelfie4 layout in HO. The footprint is roughly 10” depth by 6’ long, designed to fit on top of IKEA bookcases. You can get quite a bit of enjoyment and challenges out of shelf layouts. Deadwater and Kielder might offer some inspiration.
  10. Only you can answer the ‘realistic’ question, as only you know what compromises you will accept. Had you not put up Hartburn, that’s one example I’d have suggested. A lot will depend on if you want rural, or urban. There’s plenty of linear rural Northumberland stations that you could adapt which have interesting operations
  11. Which Bachmann locomotives had square axles bearings? I can’t recall any. Many certainly run within a U shaped axle channel in the chassis, but without square bearings. I’ve actually met and spoken with Sam, he’s a nice, personable guy but I wouldn’t trust him to review a brick accurately.
  12. Possibly because he may recall the absolute frothnami at the time of release, (not that it’s unique for any manufacturer). He’s also asked for ‘longevity’ type reply’s based on experience hopefully precluding a foamers telling us all about his, (or more importantly those he’s heard of but not experienced), unrelated Hornby product issues, and/or telling us about Hornby’s shop retailers policies. My 42xx converted to a 52xx Is fine with no running/reliability problems at all. Because the model has to negotiate 2nd radius curves and points, it has a fair degree of lateral movement in the driving axles. If you’re using Peco medium radius as your minimum you can improve the running of it with washers to reduce the lateral movement. https://albionyard.net/2013/06/29/is-42-really-the-answer-to-everything/ https://albionyard.net/2013/07/03/Hornby-42xx-chassis-modifications/ https://albionyard.net/2013/07/30/vitamin-c-for-hornbys-42xx/ As it’s a ‘Design Clever’ product some things like chassis guard irons weren’t included, but they’re easy to add, and the Brassmasters kit is also worth considering. The Chimney looks far better for replacement too. From that square axle bearing era I’ve also got their class 40, and that too has shown no abnormal wear and tear for the type of bearing, and that’s been used far more.
  13. In general terms yes, S4/P4 are even worse, it’s the same with rolling stock too. Having seen that A3 yesterday I can confirm it’s every bit as good as Tony says it is.
  14. I’m doing it for him, otherwise it’s likely to be an oil/water scenario….
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