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    Jenswell : North Eastern OO
    British N-Gauge & 2mmFS,
    Card / paper modelling,
    Hull & Barnsley Railway,
    Local Railway History (Hull & East Riding),
    British 3ft Gauge,
    Japanese TT9 (120 scale / 9mm guage)

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  1. Hi Mike, did these change colour after you put them on the layout ? Sunlight will fade some colours or printer inks. I have some Bilteezi platforms that are fading from dark weathered red brick to weathered yellow brick! On the other hand, you could call it Engineering Brick blue... Spectrum Noir do a range of spirit based felt tip pens in useful transparent colours that may be helpful in recolouring your walls without distorting them. These are available at decent craft stores for card making and artist supplies. You would need to test them first of c
  2. In hindsight and having checked my posts, I may have unfairly slandered Hobbycraft foam core. I actually got my larger problematic A1 foamcore sheets from The Works. I still stand by the black foamcore from Staples. That's good stuff. Cheers, Chris
  3. I used foam core and Extruded foam for my layout. There are photos in RMWeb if you search for Jenswell (or click the link in my sig.) The main baseboard was a 50mm slab of Knauf pink foam 1200 x 500 mm with a layer of aeromodeller light-ply beneath the track. I used Hobbycraft foam core wrapped with Fablon for the layout surround. As noted it is not as sturdy as other brands and it does warp if it gets wet/pva. I had used Hobbycraft foamcore for a building base. It bent like a banana and had to be replaced with mount board. I used Staples black foam core for some of
  4. Those do look rather nice. Just thinking, the Hull and Barnsley used to run four wheelers and have one under restoration. What are the chances? ... I may have to forgive Hornby for shutting down the Humbrol factory. Cheers, Chris
  5. That looks very good. I didn't know you could get A5 boxfiles. I am curious how you made the water surface in the canal ? Thanks, Chris
  6. Hi, Sorry, I never got around to opening up the gear box. The model went back into its box and has not been run since. It had been an impulse buy after our first show. It was the most expensive model I have bought so far. So when it started going clicky, I was rather disappointed to say the least and the missus was not impressed! I would have liked to get a Class 14, but after this I am very reluctant to buy from Heljan again. Thanks, Chris
  7. Superquick brick papers can work with other kits. I have used SQ Slate papers on the roofs of Metcalf kits because I prefer the look and it makes the roofs consistent across a variety of card kit buildings.
  8. I have a couple of Micro models sets, but I have not tried Millimodels yet. 1/200 is a minor wargames scale so there is a fair range of white-metal military figures and vehicles available mainly for WW2. https://www.skytrex.com/10-action-200-ww11 Wargames 10mm scale (referring to figure height) is slightly larger than true 1/200 but has a much larger range of suppliers and figures. You might find some of the WW1 sets useful. For example Pendraken miniatures produce figures and vehicles for a WW1 trench railway. https://pendraken.co.uk/world-war-i/tre
  9. I have used Superquick Slate paper on the roof of Metcalfe buildings. I feel that Metcalfe's roof slate pattern is one prominent area that really lets down their models. I have also 'deconstructed' Builder Plus kits, using a paper photocopy of the BP kit to skin a mountboard carcass. Try it and see how you get on. Chris
  10. If you want 2mm card, try asking your local picture framer if they have any offcuts of mountboard. Tell them what you need it for and they may be quite happy to give it away, as it saves them having to dispose of it themselves.
  11. I have one of the Builder Plus GW Station Houses under construction. I scanned the sheets before I started as I wanted to modify it. Regards, Chris
  12. I have built their NER crossing keepers cottage. It makes a very nice model. The only downside is Alphagraphix are not on the web, (last time i checked). You have to write to them with a cheque or postal order. Their service is prompt and friendly. It's well worth getting their catalogue as they produce so many attractive models. Regards, Chris
  13. Thanks Izzy, I will have another look at it when I get home and try running it without the intermediate gear. I will let you know how I get on. Regards, Chris
  14. Thanks Alan, I have emailed Howes for further advice. Regards, Chris
  15. I have a W&M Railbus too. Now it has started clicking and 'hiccuping'. Taking the cover off the gearbox on the offending axle appears to show the intermediate brass gear jumping out of mesh. I have had this model for over three years now. Is there anything I can do to fix it ? Chris
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