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modelmaker87

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Everything posted by modelmaker87

  1. Tim, T-Cut sucks. Period. I use a softer gentler approach to replicate the shine of a just cleaned engine, I use clear shoe polish. With an 'ear bud' I can replicate the polishing circles that were always clearly seen on the side of all the larger flat surfaces. At certain reflective light angles they show up perfectly just as they did on the prototype. From a modelling viewpoint you never have to worry about paint damage. The polish will wear off as it did on the prototype and subsequently I re-polish. No different than when a locomotive wenty on shed after its day on duty. Cheers, Tony
  2. Guys, My publisher, OST publications advised that the book is now available. http://www.ostpubs.com/diesel-locomotive-modeling-techniques-sw1500/ Cheers, Tony
  3. Hi guys, Responding in the date order of your posts...so. Tove: Book two covers the GE 9-40CW, subtly different to the 9-44CW. I had submitted far more than just the 9-40CW to the publisher. ES40DC modifications to the IM model, and my unfinished C39-8 which included a scratch chassis. This info will probably be included in one of the next three books they plan to publish from my manuscrit and images. GP38 HH, it's on my list, but I mainly build 6 axle power over 4 axle. w124Bob: The publisher is going to offer it both in paper and e-book. 298: The scratch building part, publishers use of the term not mine, involves rebuilding the radiator core, more like adding to what was existing. Adding a radiator fan. Your brake cylinders look good. I see you designed them with the brake 'on'. Always a conundrum that one, they are correct only a part of the time, depends on the orientation of the cylinder rod either set in or out. Never 100% correct, is it...? Prof K: The book will be sold by the publisher, OST Publications, they commissioned me to write for them. You can get these etched switch throws along with any other detail parts you fancy from me. my e-mail is sissons.tony@gmail.com Use that over PM as I don;t visit RMWeb as often as I once did during the Charlotte Road and Widnes Vine Yard days, both expo layouts now sold and gone. Postage for these etches is not expensive as these parts can be mailed out in an envelope. http://tonysissons.zenfolio.com The parts available keep growing as I need something that is not available by the Details Assoc and other after market parts boys. Or what is available is no longer up to snuff. Prof, these are not functioning throws, cosmetic only. The usual works are under the B/Board. Gene: I was asked to write a book about my modeling style some three years ago now, it's not every modellers cup of tea. I submitted over 85,000 words and around 900 plus images, of which 40% were prototype images. The text covered not only the SW1500 build but also the GE dash 9's, an EMD SD70M-2 build (the flared radiator design), a C39-8 along with locomotive sections such as, 15,000 words plus images on plows and pilots. Another 30K words section on roofs and the modifications I have done to the variety of them ou there, and sections on the main shell, trucks, fuel tank and the plethora of pipework that goes under the sill. A full chapter on modelling tools I make, or modify, to suit certain tasks. Originally no model was finished, it was all about the construction techniques that I have successfully adopted. The publisher decided to break up these sections and extract specifics covering one locomotive design at a time. This entailed additional work to sew all the separate parts that were in separate sections and placethem in a coherent fashion for one locomotive design, then finish it, painting, weathering and all. Hence the first book, decided by my publisher is the SW1500. Long answer to your question... lol, the short answer is, yes, I was writing this book last year. As an aside, I'm one of the handful of true protomodelers here in the US. Rivet counting is as it always is, but when nasty offensive words and slogans are written in the dust on the side of the fuel tank, and they often are, I model it and display it. It's fun that someone else's opinion still offends when the model is on display at an RPM meet. Cheers, Tony
  4. My publisher has posted this on their company blog. http://www.ostpubs.com/diesel-locomotive-modeling-techniques-vol-one/ Book two...? I'm on it. Cheers, Tony
  5. And a less well known image site here. Might be useful. http://tonysissons.zenfolio.com/
  6. Jon, although this is not a GP35 its still an EMD. When out shopped all the eyebolts were aligned in a longitude orientation. These images of the roof of a GP50 should make it clear. There are a lot of older EMD machines out there now with the eyebolts tightened up past the military style alignment. Threads get worn, replacement eyebolts and all of that. Setting one or two eyebolts at a slight angle does add a little interest. Something that I do, makes the model look used. 2nd pic lower left eyebolt. Cheers, Tony
  7. Yeah, I know exactly how that is Pete. Same for me many years ago back in the early 80's. Try this site. http://www.trainreadyproducts.com/HAND-RAILS-AND-STANCHIONS-FOR-SD60M-KIT-210.htm?categoryId=27 A-Line offer handrail and stanchions. I'd go for item #104 or #108. Without the good old touchy feely it might cost you a few packs to find out what is. http://www.ppw-aline.com/detlloco.htm You could go for the Smokey Valley, SD60M handrail kit, #676-210. I like Smokey Valley and have used their stuff on many models. Mmmmm, maybe a tad oversize, its subjective. There's hundreds of locos out there with them fitted. You never know, this info may help you toward your goal. Cheers, Tony
  8. Pete, I'm sure you can ask Andy Y to move this into this US/Canadian area of the forum now. The WFRM club room is moribund these days and has been for months. http://www.rmweb.co....clinic-ns-5424/ I can also do a new one on this bad boy if'n ya like. Just finished it yesterday ready for this weekends Savannah, GA. RPM meet. Ref A/C units. UP and BNSF generally favor this style of A/C unit. There are some UP and BNSF engines that also use this style of A/C unit which is identical to the NS type. The NS style. I do a custom etch for the NS type, superior than anything you can purchase from D/W and even the original plastic units that come with the models. Plus other custom etches for the prototype modeler some of which are generic that can be used on GE 6 axle power on other roads. This image was taken a while back and was my first test unit, there has been some small refinements, adjustments of several thousandths of an inch, that sort of thing. There is no soldering required, more because soldering is almost alien to the US modeler, almost, there are some around, like me. Cheers, Tony
  9. Wow, don't it just improve it, good job there Tim, made world of difference. I'll be at Ally Pally with Vine Yard. See you there. Cheers, Tone
  10. Hey Tim, Just stumbled upon your thread here. HTFRU...? Been awhile since we last said hi. Thought you had got away from the toy trains. Looking at your images I like what I see. But you know me and all these 'atta boys' and 'back slaps you're getting I guess its left to me to slap you around a bit. I mean, someones gottta say it. You know I'm a bit of a stickler for the rivets and rust patches and I noticed those thick smoke deflectors on that Duchess of yours, couldn't you have taken a file and carefully filed a very light chamfer off the front edges of the smoke deflectors to help my eyes and reduce the pain they caused. You certainly have the weathering skills to make them look a tad thinner - right. Hope to see meet up with you again sometime, meanwhile, take care. Tone
  11. Craig, that's great. Tell your office to go and **** themselves. I really hope you make it. I'll look forward to seeing you. Later, Tony
  12. Whoaaa there Craig, Jon asked if there was any difference between a GP30 and a GP30M, NOT the difference between the prototype and the model. Sure a Chessie GP30 would have the slits in the battery box covers. Thus a Chessie GP30 modified to a GP30M would still have those slits. Thus there would be no external differences between a GP30 and a GP30M. Now the model, that's a whole different question which was never asked. Craig, whilst on here chatting to you. You said last year that you would attend the Greensboro Prototype Modelers Meet this year. Its 24/25 September, hope to see you there, should be a good one. F.Y.I. http://www.rpmcarolinasgreensboro.org Jon, aplologies for nicking your thread for that last note to Craig. Cheers, Tony
  13. Jon, the 'M' stands for Modified. I doubt very much that you can detect any external differences. If you go further and turn your GP30 into a Road Slug, then there are a good number of external differences. I have a whole bunch of detail photos of CSX Road Slugs if you wanted to go that far. Cheers, Tony
  14. Stubman, just landed on your thread, freakin brilliant, love it to death. Be watching in the future, in its own miniature way its ground breaking, certainly inspirational for all those who have limited space yet still want to model.

    Cheers, Tony Sissons

  15. Awwwwright, James, go for it my man. Be watching with great interest. All the best on a great build. Cheers, Tony
  16. Hi Dave, Tony Sissons here. Glad to see you on RMWeb. Reading your blog, love it. Is this a permanent home layout..?

    What I have to conceal wall joins, apart from re-shaping the stones like you have done, is to paint a fine line of plastic cement along the join. It melts just enough of the sharp line of the jojn to make it virtually invisible. Paint & weather it becomes i...

  17. Love your avatar Tim.

  18. What's on your mind?

  19. I think I'm going to like this new and improved site

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