Scale7JB

I believe that's the case, Ian.. JB.

Brilliant news! JB.

Hi guys, Yes that website was always a bit hit and miss. You'd be best giving Peter a call directly and he'll be able to email you pictures through I'm sure.. JB.

That's brilliant David! Many thanks for that, looking forward to getting some TurboCad time in.. JB.

That's looking great, the correct area, and the correct era, thanks..! I'm just wondering thought about the laser etched templot diagram on the cork, it's an idea I'd had before, but never looked into seeing how easy it was to export the templot file as a laser cutter friendly file? If you had a minute to do a very quick description of the process that would be great. No point reinventing the wheel eh?! JB.

Personally I'm a fan of methfix or water slide as they're easy to move around to get to the right position, and if you get it wrong you can lift them again. Just my two penneth worth.. JB.

If you want to go all out on the tie bar, Peter Hunt at Perfect Miniatures, sells a very nice tie bar kit. JB.

Very neatly built! JB.

I too passed up on one of these kits at Telford a few years back as they're a bit of a mission and bore no importance to what I model, however it looks like you're making a proper job of these two.. With regard to the ball joints, will these work for you? http://www.modernoutline.co.uk/modern_outline_025.htm JB.

That's looking brilliant and I really like the idea for the cassettes. JB.

That's very impressive, especially from a 3D print. Well done! JB.

Very impressive modelling, and the Jinty chassis is beautifully free running! JB.

Steve, you should quickly release an 08... Reckon you'd make a killing! The Dapol situation is completely laughable and frankly dirty business! JB.

Ah I was wondering what the LSP livery was. Plain Green and non-yellow ends for me please.. JB.

Hi Simon, The G5 is looking very nice, though as you say the kits really do fall together.. Just one thing though, you forgot to put the inside valve gear in.. JB.

Uh hum... "Scale7" JB.

Hi Jazz, Have you tried using chemical black to prevent solder sticking to bits you don't want it to? It's foolproof and prevents that sticky mess that the oil soaked paper method can produce.. JB.

Just to prove you don't need big irons to build 7mm loco's, I built about 95% of this J68 with a 25w iron. Don't get me wrong, it would have been easier with my preferred 40w, but it did do the job. JB.

Be nice seeing this come together.. Got a bit of a soft spot for the Beattie WT's after I fired one of them at the Epping Ongar last year. With regard to soldering irons, I'd be tempted to purchase a 25w and see how you get on with it. It's very definitely horses for courses with soldering irons and temperatures, preferred flux etc, but get yourself a 25w and see how you get on with it. If it's not man enough for the job, but something with a little more oomph. It's a small investment in the grand scheme of things, and it will always be handy in the future for small details and general electrical wiring too. If you need something with a little more heat (which personally on thin flat WM I'd be surprised if you do) I'd highly recommend a Weller 40w iron. Just make sure you chuck away the tip that comes with it and invest in a high quality tip. The better tips are around £10, so an extra investment, but the standard tips burn away in no time, whereas I've had a decent tip last me around 6 months of solid soldering if you look after it. JB.

An awfully handsome prototype! Looking lovely.. JB.

I'm guessing that Wellingborough shed might not have been that good with their water treatment... Either that or the fireman were a little forgetful in switching the injector off... JB.

Great stuff...! JB.

Great bit of pway, keep up the good work... JB.

I did think for a second that you might be scratch building all the chairs, but then remembered that you probably have a brass casting company on speed dial... JB.

Beautiful new take on baseboard design...! JB.