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NERBOB

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    East Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Model Railways, Music - pop to classic, Country Life, Electronics, Advanced DIY, Freemasonry.

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  1. Brian, Pack it up neatly and send back to Peco direct. Address it to BEN ARNOLD who is Engineering Director, and STEVE HAYNES who is Sales Manager and ask them for comment and replacement. Address is: PECO Ltd, Underleys, Beer, Devon, EX12 3NA Best wishes, Bob
  2. Cheers Barry, yes sounds like you had a good day! I was obviously "not in the right mood" - I didn't want to damn Peco at all as their stuff is very good, it was just a frustrating exercise at the time..................Anyway, I have yet to design the underside of the board so quite looking forward to it now it's working! I'll try a couple on some of the points as well (although I have bought the "Conrad" ones which I've used before). It looks like the switching for colour lights is a good idea, I tried a couple of LEDs to see the effect and I like it. I will be having a couple of semaphores but the rest are colour lights so that'll be ideal. I might, through some turn of fate, be able to hook up the semaphores mechanically to the servo horns so they operate at the same time. I'll have to have my good head on that day! Thanks for your response. All the best. Robert
  3. Original comment edited - note the following. Perseverance has paid off; it's not wholly clear on which way the plugs go into the sockets (they can go either way) so if, like me you can't get it to work, switch off first. then turn the plugs the other way up and restore power. Original comment: Hi Barry, is there any chance of you helping me out here? I've got one servo and one switch rigged up and nothing works (the display & buttons are ok). After reading other threads who have had similar negative experiences, I am about to ditch this in the bin, until I read your "...............programming and operation is very straightforward........" I can't get to grips with it and the connectors bare no resemblance at all to the diagram - it's double dutch to me. I am a qualified electronics engineer as well so this "Taiwanese English" booklet versus diagram has got me stumped!! Cheers Robert
  4. Interesting. I logged on today to find out about this "damned thing" - I can't get it to work even at the first stage - one switch, one servo! Looking for help and inspiration I thought I'd have a look through the Forum. I wonder, has ANYONE (apart from Peco) got this to work successfully, or is it really a white elephant? Going to Youtube next to see if there's anything positive about it (again apart from Peco). All in all, not a good advert for Peco but hey ho. I could've spent my £60 on something more useful by the sounds of it. Not impressed at all.
  5. Yes that's the one. Good Luck. (Don't overdo it though - it'll last for a long time!) Bear in mind where the loco is standing also - where there's full sun for example as this will obviously warm it and liquify it. Keep an eye on leakage of any kind and keep all clean and grease free where it's not supposed to be. Sounds obvious I know, but worth mentioning. All the best.
  6. Paul, don't use "conductive" grease! This might get into the wrong places and cause shorts or other problems. I believe (although I've not used it since car tinkering days) molybdenum does have fine particles in it and I don't think suitable for modelling purposes. If you can, use white grease for modellers, texture like margerine - but don't use Margerine!! - or the Servisol type which is a light grease suitable for plastics........ The stripping down is simply to unscrew the body and then the bogie screws visible from the top; there is an aperture visible on the bogies gearbox. The cardan shafts will drop out of the UJ so make sure they go back properly. Just take time and work methodically. If it helps you, mark parts with a felt tip pen if you're uncertain and it all falls apart! (worse case scenario). Good Luck
  7. Paul, I used "Servisol Silicone Grease" and packed it well into the gearbox (through the aperture) and turned the drive by hand with the cardan shaft rotating slowly in the direction that takes the grease in naturally. Also I put grease in the universal joint at the motor end of the cardan shaft. Tidy up any trace of grease on the outsides with a cotton bud/clean cloth on cocktail stick. I left it overnight at cool room temperature (in the workshop), and next morning ran her, with a bit of anxiety!, but she was like a different beast altogether. Now running very smoothly and quiet. I did suspect that the gears might not even have been greased as there were no "tell-tale" signs when I thought about it afterwards. Good Luck with it. Persevere and I'm sure you'll get there. If you have any difficulties obtaining the grease let me know and I'll send you some. Robert
  8. All, Have now successfully converted this to DCC. Now on with the bodywork, flush glazing and cab detail. Working a treat and very smooth on code 100 and Peco pointwork. A sound decoder might be next, but which one? probably a Class 03/04 or Class 08 would do, maybe........... Best wishes, Robert
  9. Thanks David, yes, I'll be doing that. It will be insulating tape though rather than desolder and insulate the wire further. So far so good on test so looking forward to getting on the new layout. Best wishes.
  10. Hi All, Herewith showing my "mod" to the Bachmann Class 40 pickup wiper arrangement. The wipers on the wheelsets are in very good shape and effective so no modification was done there. However, I detest the brass contact wiper idea on the circuitboard, very cheap and nasty, and especially as DCC is wholly reliant on good contact I soldered very fine enamelled copper wire to both the pickup wipers and to the motor chassis contact strip (Important note: very hot iron - flux - and minimal touch to avoid internal damage to the motor housing or winding.) It is also important to use a thin flexible cable so as not to allow the bogie to wander or not turn if a thicker cable is used. Ensure that the parts are adequately insulated from the circuit board and chassis on completion to make absolutely sure there can be no short circuit. Disclaimer: I hasten to add that this is NOT a "how to" sequence and I take responsibility for my own Loco only. I do not encourage anyone to undertake this modification on my say so, nor do I accept any responsibility for any damage caused to any other model by following my example. By doing the modification each modeller is responsible for his own ability.
  11. Fabulous conversion! I'm struggling at the moment with putting DCC in mine. NOT an easy job, connection-wise, and I just can't figure it out. Everything is insulated (works fine on dc with a blanking plug in the 8pin socket - from the "spares box"), but all is not well somewhere along the line. Have posted in DCC thread, but no joy of a successful conversion reply. Yet. If anyone has an idea, would be pleased to hear from you. Ta, Rob
  12. (Might be on the wrong thread but seeing as I've read all this here goes: Well, it's here! D369 - Bachmann's 32-481. Gave her a try on dc, beautiful and what a cracking model. Then it was time for a dismantle and get prepared for DCC. The 8 screws in the chassis were difficult to remove. I've got all the right tools but boy were they tight. Fearing the worst, I was pleasantly surprised when the body lifted off easily. The inside is very neat with everything tidily finished. I fitted a Loksound decoder (55478) from SWD. Had to cut off the oval speaker as supplied (!) and fit a 28mm circular but this fits exactly into the housing beneath the roof fan. Perfect fit and wow! What a sound. Have had to turn it down as nearly deafened me. Absolutely stunning. However - and there had to be one, it runs like a bag of the proverbial! Oh, disappointment rules at the moment but I won't worry at this stage after having read the contributions on this topic/thread. Slow (shunting/creep) is very jerky. As if it's running over the sleepers (it's not), but that's what the jerking is like. On a 128 speed step 1 to 4 is terrible. 5 onwards is smooth as a baby's bum. I actually think, first off, that the loco is too heavy for the gearing. Weighing in at 640g she is heavy! It seems as if the cogs are struggling to tick over until some momentum is reached and then she's fine. Pitched against the Class 45 (at 580g), the 45 being really smooth throughout the speed range from a crawl to prototypical mid range, it seems to have a much finer gear to weight ratio, which the 40 doesn't. Tomorrow will be CV checking and adjusting, (then maybe a tweak at the gearboxes if there's no improvement). Other than that she is stunning. Recommended and very exciting to add to the fleet! If anyone wishes to comment, or advise, please do so as I'm sure it's a mechanical issue (gear ratio) at the moment, but will accept any advice. Cheers, Rob
  13. Bought a five pack and now ready for another pack. I think they're excellent and have had no problems whatsoever. Fitted one to an ageing Bachmann 08 this evening (non DCC ready - so cut the cable and soldered); it works like a dream. Tested LEDs and adding lights tomorrow so not expecting any problems. Now for more stock conversions! OK they're a "no frills" item, but recommended, in my experience.
  14. Awaiting my 32-481 - D369, and a bit worried after reading through the last 36 pages! Hopefully these issues will be sorted, perhaps not, but there's enough information now to help if there's an issue. Will be fitting Locsound's 21 pin sound decoder. Haven't had any problems with the 37s or 47s, so here's hoping. I'll post on the Class37 pages but does anyone think the later Class 37 (Green) has a high ride height?
  15. Interesting enough the Deltic "motor" noise actually sounds like a Deltic "engine" noise, especially on that second pass. Nice video. Bob
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