BobD

There is a known problem with these machines with the power bricks. Replace with a slightly more powerful one. There is a very active Facebook Group for the machine with lots of technical help. Wish I could afford one, and had the space to put it.

Hi David, if you are doing that in Rhino and the surfaces are flat. Try removing the surface and 'cap planar holes'. This only works if you do not have holes elsewhere on curved surfaces. You could also duplicate edges and use these to ''sweep 2 rails' Doesn't allways work, but worth a try.

Going into dumb mode. Probably due to a combination of overwork, age........... I cannot quite follow what you mean by the double vinyls. Can you elaborate for me.

I am experimenting with a product called 'Mr Surfacer' at the moment. This is a filler/primer and initial trial suggests it help. You get it in three grades, fine, medium and coarse. I have only tried the medium. However, I have only done a test piece, which I have misplaced, so no photo's. A word of warning. The instructions are all in Japanese, so I didn't spot the bruch cleaning instructions. I think it needs white spirit. Soap and water helped it set solid.

You found a course teaching Rhino 3D...........................

Never had WSF go banana, but I do use seperate body and floor/underframe, with a ridge in the coach body to stop the floor pushing to far up. My floor also has a lip along both sides. It makes the final structure fairly rigid.

Welcome to my world.............................. As for the enclosed version being more expensive, the cost is based on volume of material. If you have not left an opening, they will assume it is solid. Or it could simply be that you have fairly thick bits. For example, is the belly part hollow, or is the floor level. If it is solid, that is a lot of material. If you haven't done so, think of making it hollow from either the bottom, or by dropping the 'floor' where required. I am currently looking a different method of providing a better finish to WSF, which will improve the ability of vinyls to stick.

That is very good David You could try the TPM MUM Chassis

If you ask Adam nicely, he might do.............................

I may have to look more closely at these kits. I didn't bother as they are card, which is not my favourite material. However, the stuff you have done may change my mind.

I think they originate in Germany, but I get them from a distributor in the UK

Do I recognise some steel pipes in that first picture?

Looking good.............

Hope it proves useful...........

That is looking very good. I "almost" am too meek to suggest that I do a very nice Sprinter Ambulance that is quite easy to repaint (or vinyl).