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  • Location
    A remote village in mid Wales
  • Interests
    Great Central/Great Northern Derby Line/7mm modelling/Heyside/BR early 60s

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  1. Good to see you too Richard! I've made a mock up of the signal box for Basford North, it w as along box with 99 levers. It is not like any other GN box I can find. I suspect it was a new build in 1898/9. The closest photo I have is of one end, but I had a distant view of the back and an oblique view of the front so I've had to extrapolate the dimensions. I got it too high on the first pass.
  2. Thanks Ade - progress is less than glacial, but I've been planning some of the structures, beginning with the Vernon Road bridge. I've drawn it out actual size. Hopefully I'll be able to get it laser cut. The photos show it being demolished in 1970. The trolleybus is early 60s. Look at all those advertising hoardings. I won't be putting it on the skew though:-
  3. I just wanted to put together a summary of the project. Basford North - I chose this location as it is related to the GC, but runs only local trains and plenty of goods and mineral ones. So the project has been ongoing in the background for a couple of years. The time has been taken up with extending my building, planning the layout and making baseboards I have a Templot plan which is in the process of being printed. So a flavour of what I want to achieve. Initial design, before deciding to extend the room:- Basic Templot plan Current progress with the baseboards - just the lifting section to make. I've been gathering information, books and photos for a long time, including a visit to the Nottingham Archive. There are still many unanswered questions! Tony
  4. I'm obsessed by cleanliness... I'm on with the tender and flared ones are always tricky. With this kit the flare comes as a half etched strip, with raised beading. I use my folding bars that have a rounded edge on one side to form them. They sit in a half etch at the top of the side. I also soldered some scrap etch along the inside of the side (not seen here ) to support the top so that it didn't drift whilst soldering it in place. The chassis is simple and goes together quickly. I used some spares castings to beef up the adjuster. The intermediate pull rods should have clevises really. I always thought that all GC tenders were the same, but after studying multiple photos, realise that that's not the case. My O4/8 has an ROD tender. The O1 will have a GC tender with no pickup and low rear division plate. I wasn't sure what to do with the beading, it is raised from the half etch and looks very flat. Adding half round would make it look to high, removing it is impractical, and I didn't fancy making up new panels. In the end I resorted to subterfuge by using multiple emery sticks to round it off. From layout distance it looks fine. I didn't waste my time with the coal space and plated it over, it will have a full load.
  5. Don't give David the credit Ken, Its built by Tony!!
  6. Thanks Ian - one of my top qualities apparently when I was in full time employment! Despite the awful weather, I seem to be making slow progress. There were one or two items that I wanted to improve on. It took a days work to fit out the frames with the wheels and pick ups. The wheels are on and off getting the right side control washers on the wheels. Making sure the rods don't hit the brake mounts etc. I added some cranks below the rear sandboxes for the sanding mechanism. The slide bar support bracket was insubstantial. It was a hefty casting on the original. So I added some thin brass strip to represent that tapered flange and drilled the slidebar support webs to accept some lengths of wire to represent the retaining bolts. The drop link had a projection on it typical of some LNER locos, but the O1 doesn't have that so it was filed off. The return cranks are nice castings, thick enough to be tapped 10BA, and they tighten up against 2 brass top hats also tapped. To me, the front spectacles don't look quite right, they have quite a sad expression. In the prototype photos, they are shallower and a little more mean looking! I also added that support bracket above the rear sandbox.
  7. A bit late to the party as always, I made some LNER horseboxes for a client. D&S 7mm kits, painted by Paul Moore. They look very glossy and new!
  8. 12 years of O gauge kit building generates plenty of spare castings and etchings! I look out at shows for useful castings and keep a stock.
  9. I'm picky Mike! There not many big pipes that are visible on this loco, but there are plenty of small ones. I drilled out all the castings 0.5mm and used a mixture of 0.3 and 0.4mm copper wire. The atomisers came with cast pipes, but I felt they were a little over size, so I cut them off and drilled them out for the pipes. The drain cock linkage was representational, so I found a nice little etch with some tiny cranks on in the spares box, so they came in handy. I struggled with the full thickness etched sand guards, I ended up scratching them up from some thinner material. One pipe needs poking into it's hole in the steam pipe cover. Sorting out these small details has soaked up a lot of time! The safety valves in the kit lacked the big base with bolts that are typical of these boilers, I found a suitable pair in the spares box. The whistle is a very nice little casting. Next job is to tackle the slidebar bracket, and I think I'll stick the wheels on and get it going.
  10. It's not perfect, but boiler bands and handrail knobs added. I try and do as much work on the boiler as I can before it goes on to the running plate and cab. The running plate assembles nicely up on a cradle. Once the boiler is permanently attached to the running plate, the cradle is cut away with a slitting disk. Plonked on the frames, it starts to look like an O1. I'm enjoying building an LNER engine at last...
  11. Thanks Mike, John Yes - its hard up against the clamping screws... and the bottom edge that projects below the running plate is trimmed off after assembly. Regards Tony
  12. Thanks Ken! I'm on to the body now, and there is something quite therapeutic about pressing out all those rivets, I use the GW model tool. The windows surrounds should be a bit more rounded, but I couldn't think of a way of doing it neatly. There is an etch for the cab edge beading, but I replaced that with half round brass wire. I made sure I had a stock of these when I heard that HobbyHorse was going to stop trading. Enough for my remaining kits in the cupboard... Assembling the cab on to the running plate. To start with, I just tacked the cab parts into position, checking for square in all directions, and I did take them off again a couple of times before committing to seam solder the joints. My rollers struggled ( well me really ) with the boiler - it was quite springy and I couldn't get the middle to come in. So I had to resort to various bars as well as brute force! The instructions say to anneal the lower edge for the firebox, which I did. I think it would have been impossible otherwise, although I generally prefer to form without annealing if possible. I marked a line at the centre of the reverse curve for the firebox to give an idea where the bending bar should go.. It was a bit of a fight and in the end I resorted to all my bending tools, from top to bottom, skirting board ( to pull out the lower firebox edge for starters- originally made for putting the tumblehome in 4mm coach sides ), aluminium bar, for applying pressure, laser printer roller - used inside the boiler to pull in the bits that weren't round enough, more skirting board - convex curves are pressed in to the convex depression using, the ex printer silver steel bar, and finally the home made folding bars... What didn't help was that it seemed the front firebox former is too narrow by about 4mm. That confused me for a bit! Putting the reverse curve into the lower firebox.
  13. Perhaps the chaps with the bells don't like talking to each other...….
  14. Thank Ian There are some tidy castings that make up the cylinders. The covers come over wide and the instructions advise to trim afterwards. I prefer to cut them as close to the right size as possible. That ensures that the cylinders are actually the right size. Getting the slide bars in the right position took a little patience. I put in the glands first, then used the piston rod to ensure the made up assembly put the slidebars in the right position. - the hole to locate them is... generous. I'll put on the drain cock linkage once I see how the assembly fits to the running plate.
  15. The etched brake adjuster was a bit two dimensional, so I cut the ends off and grafted them on to some brass bar with slots cut in the ends. You only see it in silhouette, but it looks better to me. Everything else is coming along nicely, as usual, some tidying up to do.
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