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Giles last won the day on November 15 2013

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  1. A Bagnall Ashanti Mines diesel.... Monkeys - I'm surprised all yours aren't replicating themselves by now!
  2. Forgive a complete tyro with this type of printing - but six months ago, I received a Mars 2 Pro printer for my birthday, courtesy of Di - of course! It has laid dormant partly because I hadn't the immediate need, and partly because I found the thought slightly intimidating. However, I have been looking at a loco that caught my interest, and a couple of parts really need to be printed, so I took the bull by the horns, so to speak...... I spent a morning on Design Spark Mechanical and drew up the necessary, then downloaded Chitubox and slicedit etc..., and today had a look at what I had to do with the printer. It reality it was all straight forward, and I went straight to printing 8 of my spring assemblies rather than their Rook trial piece. I went for 1 micron, as I want the highest level of detail (that is the point of the machine for me) and pressed Go. Of course it was only realistic to expect the print to fail. The question was at what point and in what way....... To my great joy, all eight turned out perfectly, blemish free.... what a machine, and an addition to the workshop!
  3. I shall put the Bracknell show in the diary! I had spotted the coal-guards - a very nice touch - but I completely missed that you had shortened the front end..... I think the saddle tank is absolutely delightful - a very nicely proportioned and good looking loco. My Slomo in on September's list, I am assured - but then it has to make it's way over here! Meanwhile I very much look forward to seeing your layout end of October! Giles
  4. I think your right.... it does make a lot of difference....... I'll have you know that this is entirely your fault! I found your work and layout inspiring in a way I have never found in 16mm before....
  5. Good to know..... thank you! I've managed to sort the regulator which wasn't closing properly. Cleaning up the cone was easy enough to do with some polish, and I managed to clean the internal seat/bore by soaking a cocktail stick in Duraglit wadding for a while, and reaming it out with the polish soaked pointy end! That worked, and it now seats perfectly. The smokebox was pop-riveted on, so I drilled them out - breaking through the side of the saddle in the process (well, the rivet had done that, and my drill followed it nicely!). I then had to open that out, leaving a gaping hole, tap it M4, put a brass bolt in and silver solder it in all round. This was then sculpted back to profile. All a pain, but ok. New, tapped holes were made in a much better position to enable the bolting from the underside..... while I was at it, I was able to rotate the dart to vertical, which had been annoying me. Smoke box is now repainted. The new boiler is fitted, which was more of a faff than I was expecting, as hole centres were all slightly different etc....., but job done. The gas filler valve leaks when you fill, so I've ordered a new valve to see if that cures it..
  6. I've not tried cutting styrene, but I do cut acrylic (perspex and Trotec) from time to time, and I've tried a reasonable number of variations, and I only have any real success with high speed feed rates - 30mm per second 1800mm per minute - anything much slower and I get a build-up of melted plastic that wrecks the job. This gives me a nice clean cut. I would observe, generally, that I chose the Stepcraft over others because it looked to be the most rigid machine of its type - and I think that has been true. Certainly I've not regretted the choice. Like all things, there has been a learning curve, but it has been such a revolution to my modelling...
  7. You are absolutely right! My mistake!
  8. Ah.... I posted having mis-read your speeds - sorry about that! So I cut at around 15mm per minute with the 0.8mm I also run the spindle at between 16 and 20,000 rpm Best Giles
  9. Not cheeky at all...... I will confirm when I'm on the computer for accuracy, but where possible I use a 1.6 dia D bit for everything I can, and that cuts at around 0.3mm per pass, and about 0.3mm per second, and where I have to go smaller, I use a 0.8mm D bit, and run it at around 0.2 per pass and about 0.25mm per second. These are the cheap Chinese carbide tools sold for PCB work, at around £5 for 10. There is a reasonable mortality rate for the 0.8mm ones (sometimes one will last three or four weeks, other times I will break three in a day....) but the 1.6 are much more resilient. They don't like the work moving! When cutting small pieces, I always program a tab to hold it in place and prevent it from breaking free - as that is guaranteed to snap a tool. I generally get on less well with conventional end mills for this sort of work (non-ferrous profiling)
  10. Quarry Hunslet (7mm) chassis parts 7mm Peckett milled chassis
  11. I also incidentally made an enclosure which cuts the noise down a lot! It's made from 18mm MDF and carpeted internally. The dalek type doors work really well for access. The Hoover I use for extractionbis the loudest aspect by far, now. I've also given up on using Proxxons for spindles and use the FME- P Spindle.
  12. No updates as such, but I've been using it a lot. About four loco chassis including slide bars, cranks, motion etc. And recently a 16mm live steam scale rebuild cutting a new cab from 0.036" nickel silver and buffer beams from 2.2mm brass (both using 1.6mm D cutter)
  13. And now with glazing (1mm acrylic) in the specs - though it's clean, so you can't see it.... and PLA printed chopper couplings. I've tried to make them as compact as possible.nthey articulate, with a modicum of self-centering, and the chopper has a bar for an un-coupling magnet. The new boiler is painted and ready for fitting.
  14. Well, the new boiler has arrived, and it's slightly different and needs a mounting bracket, so slight delay.... However, new buffer beams are made and fitted together with front footplate. I have also removed a number of cheese-head screws and replaced them with counter-sunk or hex.
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