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  • Location
    Burpengary Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    N Gauge LMS and BR(M) Steam; BR TOPS Blue 1975-1982; 2mm FS Wisbech and Upwell (plus St Alban's Abbey and a couple of other places!)
    AFL, Rugby and Cricket. Reading Discworld Novels.

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  1. Definitely did my own - and yes, the roof does look more like Bridgnorth 2020 than anywhere on the system 1930!
  2. Today's SEQAG meeting saw me make some progress on finishing a few more wagons. The GWR V16 is the resin body (2-526) and chassis (2-361) advised last June by @John Brenchley and built by my daughter and I last September (and recorded somewhere up the thread). I finally organised the correct sized transfers for it as the ones I had didn't fit (not unsurprisingly as they are N gauge ones!). I took the opportunity at the Thursday Night Knitting Club I have with @nebnoswal and @David Hugenholtz to draw the correct ones using the actual 93045 presently preserved at the Severn Valley
  3. I get 0.4mm walls (with the strapping as an extra 0.1mm) on my RCH prints - but that's with Anycubic black resin in Anycubic Photon printer. I wasn't successful using Monocure Grey in the same printer. Haven't tried any other resins.
  4. Very nice there Will. As far as LNWR transfers go I ended up doing a home brew lot after seeing the Ghost Toner notes either in the Mag, Newsletter or here somewhere - can't remember which. I've done some for both those vans - the D33 and D88 so if you can't find anything closer than South East Queensland, get in touch and I'll post some over.
  5. Of course Klaus. Everyone is welcome to join in - so far there seems to be members interested in Britain and New Zealand already so Germany may as well have a representative! I'll be interested to see how you build your loco and I am sure I won't be the only one!
  6. Bit over exposed but happy the rivets in the door hinge straps came out.
  7. Poor shot but I got some paint on it and buffers tonight whilst chatting with some ex-students (nice they remember the old bloke who tried to teach them A level History). Just lettering to go.
  8. I don't envy the house wife walking up the hill carrying the spuds! Very nice it looks Jim. Well done.
  9. Sorry for the abrupt end to today's meeting - it would appear we were punted by the FCAG who have their meeting from 1400 local time. Because of BST, this means they started before we normally finish the ZAG ones - something to be mindful of next month (the clash only happens on the second Saturday). Thanks to all who contributed - @missy that chassis, when you get it working, will be simply stunning. I got three chassis almost finished - the brake lever from one went ping and I haven't found it yet!
  10. I spent last evening (until 2 this morning as it happens - but when you're on a roll, you're on a roll and The Boss is away for the weekend) drawing up this. I had first planned on doing it last September and built the chassis to go under a pair of fitted ones but for one reason or another never finished it. Having now worked out how to use any drawings better (I import them into Adobe Illustrator and then can see what the finished size will be once scaled down but still able to enlarge - I know some 3D CAD programs will let you draw over the top of an import and mine may be one of them but
  11. He'd have to join first wouldn't he?
  12. Welcome Mark. If you've the time, jump on the Zoom meeting set up for 0900GMT Saturday and say hello - or just lurk there. Don't mind the Aussies - we're harmless but a bit prone to going off on tangents. Lots of famous (and some infamous) 2mm modellers join in so you can get some questions answered first hand by the experts. Mind you, I find the answers lead to much head scratching and more questions at first but you soon get the hang of it all. Details are on the forum in the ZAG Meetings thread. Cheers Kevin
  13. I shall - since I haven't sealed them in - replace the G with an N as that's going to be easier if the GE did put their letters on the one side than redoing practically everything! Thanks for the information. Shame there isn't much of it easily available on-line for the casual modeller. As for the LMS one - well, it may stay the way it is unless a photo of that turns up. Hard to see how it would have been done any other way to be honest.
  14. You’ll find the answer is the same one as “what’s the best TOU?” or “what’s the best coupling?”. I’m very pleased with my Anycubic Photon using the makers resin. The RCHs printed well with 0.4mm sides and I get good rivet detail. The model I purchased has been superseded twice. As with most tech, you pays your money etc. There is a bit of a learn - I used about half a litre of resin learning what not to do with mine. Not a lot of help maybe but it’s a start!
  15. The "we" here is Ben and I - he the designer, me the builder. We were discussing it last night before I did it. And no, we have no photos to go off hence the guess. I figure someone will either produce a photo or there’ll be a lot of huffing and puffing, sucking of teeth and humming and hawring with nothing to prove me wrong!
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