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Kylestrome

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  • Location
    East of London, West of Berlin
  • Interests
    Railways in the
    Scottish highlands,
    Railways in Cornwall,
    Industrial railways,
    P4 & 2FS

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  1. My original statement ("if a logo needs explanation it has totally failed IMO") was rather 'black & white' and you are quite right that there are many well known corporate identities whose origins are not so obvious, and may have been lost in the mists of time. One thing I would point out, however, is that your list includes examples of logomarks, logotypes and mixtures thereof. To understand the differences, if you're interested, here is a very good webpage that explains them better than I could: https://en.99designs.de/blog/logo-branding/logotype-vs-logomark-vs-logo/ David
  2. One could very well turn the question around and ask "what on earth were Roundel Design playing at when they designed the Rail Express Systems livery?". Being a graphic designer myself, every time I saw it I just thought WTF? Can anyone here explain it to me (although, if a logo needs explanation it has totally failed IMO)? David PS What other liveries/logos have Roundel done?
  3. Super modelling, Pete. You wouldn't happen to be an architect by any chance? David
  4. That’s a very clever design. I like the way it starts off slowly, gathers speed and then decelerates again. Very effective. David
  5. Ponal is a brand name belonging to Henkel. Ponal Express is a quick setting PVA glue. I use use it often but it isn't waterproof. David
  6. Any 'yellowing' in your photos is caused by the colour temperature of the lights and will occur regardless of f-stop. If you are using normal household tungsten, or LED equivalents, they usually give off 'warm' light of about 2700-3000 Kelvin (K). So-called daylight lamps will have a colour temperature of approx. 6500K and, as the name suggests, give off a much bluer light similar to a sunny day outside. Most digital cameras have an adjustable white balance function which gives you a true white under most types of lighting. I'd be surprised if your camera doesn't have one tucked away in the operating menu somewhere. David
  7. I'm surprised by the totally opposing views on steel vs nickel silver rails. I must be extremely lucky with my steel track (P4 constructed from separate components). It has been down now for nearly 20 years and has never given me any trouble. Early on I had the occasional small rust spot but, once I'd got a good polish on the running surfaces it has never returned. I run DCC sound-equipped locos which run faultlessly despite the fact that I rarely clean the tracks. I have some nickel silver RTR track in the fiddle yard which does need extra cleaning. Summers can be humid here but I am some distance from the sea, which I guess must help. David PS. Apologies to the OP for the tread drift.
  8. I like the layout name. Just for fun I did a search in Google Maps and came up with this: https://goo.gl/maps/VTeLCYxTzMaAhkBi6 Unfortunately, It's some way away from GWR territory. Some really nice scratch building, by the way. David
  9. You’ve probably already developed many of the skills needed for scratch building through your kit building. Although there are some basic skills that are necessary, there are many aspects of modelling that require a bit of thought. Every model presents its own problems to solve and very often you will need to come up with your own unique solutions. That’s part of the fun but also why there will be no comprehensive answer to your original question. The best thing is just to have a go at making something and be prepared to learn from your mistakes. David
  10. For problem rolling stock it's not too difficult to attach wider loops: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/118922-kylestrome’s-4mm-workbench-–-wagons-whisky-galore/&do=findComment&comment=2707035 David
  11. Who knows? They appear to have left off the main station signal box, assuming that it was always there where it was more recently. David
  12. You will be able to get rid of the plastic finish by painting, as already suggested. There are plenty of websites out there with all the information you'll need to get started. Here is one to get you started: http://www.scalemodelguide.com/category/painting-weathering/painting-guide/ Although it has to do with military modelling, a lot of information is also common to 'our ' kind of modelling. HTH, David
  13. This map shows the 'Goods' signal box much better and in the right position: https://maps.nls.uk/geo/explore/#zoom=17.77&lat=56.40696&lon=-5.47550&layers=170&b=1 David
  14. There's plenty of contact information on their website: http://www.dingham.co.uk Maybe you should ask them directly? David
  15. Handbuilt from styrene sheet but with Wizard Models '51L' roller bearing castings. Slow setting 2-part epoxy resin (German equivalent of Araldite). Comet Models, which I just happened to have to hand. HTH, David
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