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Blog Comments posted by Stubby47
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The first O of Holton to an I
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With just a tiny tweak to those wagons they'd be perfect...
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A bit late with my thanks, but, Thanks, that makes quite a bit of sense ( to me!).
I understand now why a pre-mixed wash, even if thinned, will give a consistent result on similar surfaces.
Must get a couple of bottles and some vehicles and try it out.
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For magnets, albeit for a boxfile layout, I used handbag clasps.
These essentially are a ring and a circular plate with a matching pip.
Hope that helps.
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Isn't a 'wash' just a very thin coat of paint?
Could the same be achieved with thinners/white spirit and enamel paints?
What makes the wash you use so special ( but even then you still thin it further)?
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Thanks Jeff.
I've experimented with the MERG 3D servo bases,, the horn has a pin which fits into a staple/goalpost on a dowel rod.
As I've left the Peco point springs in place, the pin/ staple connection allows the point to be changed as the pin pushes the side of the staple far enough over.
The dowel itself is just supported by a drilled out cheap plastic corner bracket, and has another pin through the board into the tiebar. The MERG Esypoint board is run from half a DPDT switch , the other half changing the frog.
I like your method of replacing the horn with a rotary movement , and the built-in replacement Omega loops.
Hope the trials go well.
Stu
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What would be your estimated cost per complete point, using only one micro switch ( for us non-computer controlled layout builders)?
As an option, could you adapt the servo base to also incorporate the micro switches as well? I know this complicates the one unit, but if the servo itself is removable it should still fall in your remit of 'simple to fix'. The advantage is the under-point unit can be dispensed with and replaced by a simple rod with a pin.
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As usual a superb snippet of life at Farthing.
Each character is given a back story with only a few words, enough to make us interested, even curious to know more.
The whole story is started and rounded off with a casual remark, the photography enhances the text and illustrates without being cliched.
Just utterly brilliant.
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4 minutes ago, bcnPete said:
BTW - this was the layout I said would not have been ready for this years SWAG
I've got one of those too...
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"A slither of plastic sheet at the top of the sheet allows the slight sense of overlap on the sheets."
Very clever (and noted for future use).
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I read the page referred to in the link and was very surprised to see Wheal Tiny just a couple of articles above Les Coleman's. Wheal Tiny has a working hoist too...
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I'm just pleased the idea worked.
For the other layouts, what benefit do the short lines on the traverser board give you?
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Brilliant, Mikkel.
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Ha, it's still upstairs in the loft unfinished.
But, I'm a better modeller now and I've got a Silhouette cutter, so I should be able to make a neater job of it now.
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Following your displaying of the layout at Taunton Member's Day, and other than you wish to ease the operation of the fiddle yard and traverser, I would suggest raising the height of the layout by at least 12 inches.
That way, no one, but you, will be able to see the bridge, let alone look through it.
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That's what I meant
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Interesting results Mikkel.
I was expecting to only pass over each row once, though the 1st row would need a starting line to work against and a perpendicular line for one of the edges.
A line of 'L' shaped marks would the form each stone, using the previous row's marks.
LLLLLLLLLLL
LLLLLLLLLLL
((but without the spaces )
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You said:
"You tend to get a fairly uniform look and it’s hard to avoid the occasional gap between the grooves when pressing down the brush heads."
Have you tried a two-sided embossing tool, so it's just one end and one side?
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35 minutes ago, Compound2632 said:
It would have to be a very severe bump to raise a ton or so of timber a foot or so into the air. Roping is in accordance with the instructions. What one might have to worry about is a rough shunt - the force of the lower end of the planks on the end stanchions of the wagon might be an issue. The instructions state that end door wagons can be loaded this way but the lower end of the planks must be at the fixed end of the wagon - the strain on the end door catches in a rough shunt would certainly be too great.
It only needs the top plank to be dislodged to above the end of the wagon.
I accept the roping as modelled is correct, however I expected a rope to be tied across the wagon a foot or so from the end to prevent this sort of mishap.
I'm also almost certain the prototype planks weren't glued into the wagons
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39 minutes ago, Mikkel said:
My good man, the GWR does not do bumps.
The wagon might have wandered onto lesser railway networks...
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Just a bit concerned that the lower end of the planks doesn't appear to have any rope to prevent said planks jumping out if the wagon hits/is subject to a bump.
Otherwise, excellent.
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"The main idea is to try and build it for May 2020 however (a) if it does not get finished it might be presented as a work in progress (b) it has a life beyond the competition in that it could be offered as an alternative to Kyle which will no doubt start to retract from exhibitions in the distant future."
Kyle will still be available next April, I trust ? If not, this would make an excellent replacement.
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No, nor do I. It's too early and I didn't think it through properly.
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To switch to the separate rails, you'll need some sort of point.
If you made the point swap the outer rail instead, you would still need just the 3 rails on the cassette.
Starting to plan
in My version of Boscarne Junction
A blog by Yan in RMweb Blogs
Posted
A couple of observations / suggestions.
Would it help to push the top left FY board more into the corner, so the main baseboard is at a slight angle ? This would ease the curves needed for the Bodmin General FY.
Also, the Bodmin North FY is cassettes - would this be easier to use as a sector plate, to save always having to duck under to change tracks/ trains ?