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jamest

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jamest last won the day on October 30 2010

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  1. Oh yes, that was the other reason I didn’t originally use that one! I turned off 5 live for the blue hymek. I had my volume low on playback later and forgot.
  2. I sort of agree….i have several…see below. I just wasn’t as happy with my speed control on this one!
  3. Thanks all Inspired to create a quick video….i do need to weather these coaches!
  4. Thanks chaps. i do really like this picture… I’m no photographer but the back scene blend and sky look really good to me. Sorry, self praise is no praise as my mum would have said! regards James
  5. Hi all, I have been playing with the station building over the last few weeks. I bought a stand alone canopy but it didn’t blend that well with the current building and canopy. I decided to purchase a second canopy kit and adapt it to fit the building….making a continuous structure along the platform. Here is how it was… And here are the beginnings of the transformation. I decided to continue the existing canopy slope and cut it into the slate roof of the station building. This was difficult to judge until I built up the canopy but I am pleased with the result. I had to scratch build something for the left hand building end….hardly a massive job but I was pleased with it. I could have left the canopy as a pitched roof against the building but it seemed to join a but low on the wall beneath the tile edge to me. Here are some pics of the progress…. It might be a bit long for a station of this size….but I think it sits on the platform well. Regards James
  6. Hi, On the backscene…..first, don’t be too hasty. If you intend to add lighting or restrict the view by having a picture frame approach (having something along the “top” at the front) the bubbles might not be as visible. If you do go again I would only glue as little as you can. Along the top edge with a narrow line and down the vertical join. Depending on the scenery, you might not need to glue at the bottom…..or it might be covered….so don’t worry if it bubbles. It is a good idea to put a radius in the corner….as you have above. You might need a little glue there to keep it secure….but again think about how your terrain will meet the backscene…it will help you keep the glue to a minimum. Bottom line is you will get some bubbles, so be prepared to hide, or draw attention away. Regards James
  7. Thanks. You are right on the Farish running. The class 25 is noticeably better/smoother than the Dapol Hymek and class 121 out of the box. Although it was 'used' so might have been run more. regards, James
  8. Hi, Having asked about your track on your scottish layout thread, and gotten inspiration from your other layouts, I have taken the plunge and.....joined the 2mm society - got some DG couplings....also a blue hymek and class 25......and a class 121 after seeing your 'winter scene' single line halt. oh and I got a certain book (Small Layout Design Handbook) for my birthday last week. My wife wants a word with you as you are a bad influence apparently 😆. I am planning a micro so I can order some track (sticking with N gauge British Finescale) - hopefully will start something here soon. regards, James
  9. Hi James, I had a scan back through your posts and can't 100% ascertain what track standard you go for on your 2mm/n gauge layouts. I'm thinking of dabbling in something similar as a small distraction from my normal O and OO gauge stuff. You mention on your Blue 37 lowering bit that you did not intend to change the wheels suggesting you use N gauge models on British finescale track? So you don't convert to pure 2mm standards? I am thinking of going to 2mm but I am wary of adding the complication and expense of changing wheel sets - and sticking to split chassis Graham Farish stuff for locos. You show that this is not necessary for fantastic results (assuming my assumption is correct!). Can you confirm your track choice - and if it is N gauge or 2mm FS? Thanks for sharing, and inspiring. James
  10. Hi Chris, Thanks for the invite, I have seen the thread and made a note of the meeting details. I can’t attend tomorrow but will make an effort to on the next one later in the month. Regards James
  11. I’ll take a look Chris, First step done, form sent and fee paid for the association 👍
  12. ok - thanks for the replies. I was definitely going to join the 2mm association early on and give the points a go. The size of the small piece of straight I got in the starter pack was an eye-opener! Or eye squinter! I'm currently selling off some surplus OO stuff to partly fund some purchases! Regards, James
  13. Hi all, I currently model in OO and O gauge but often think about doing something in 2mm or N. I did have a layout on the back of a door done in N gauge a few years back but sold it, and the stock (Doh), to fund other stuff when I had less room. My question is - if I plan to model diesels only, how easy is it to swap out wheel sets to achieve pure 2mm standards? I am aware of the 2mm association and have their starter wagon and track - I've also looked through the shop (I'm not a member yet) and, as with most specialist areas, it does fill me with a little dread. I think I remember being told that split chassis models (like most Graham Farish stuff?) are easy to swap in wheels on - but other types with different pickups are more difficult. Are there guides around for the more difficult tasks? I'm not too concerned with the additional cost - as I don't plan to have a great deal of stock (mostly BR blue stuff) - I just don't want to go up an alley where I need to avoid certain locos because my skill, or part availability, limits my options. The other option being not converting the stock and using the British Finescale stuff as a halfway house. Regards, James
  14. Hi, Liking your period/design and following with interest. Can i ask if your scenic two boards are one BB017 kit? i.e. about 1110mm long? It looks that way, just want to confirm as they seem really good value for money. Regards, James
  15. That is very impressive. I’m guessing you had some prior knowledge of electrics/electronics as that set-up, design, and execution is very impressive. On a layout like this it seems essential, but makes me break out into a cold sweat. The woodwork looks equally impressive. Loved watching the warship circulate, this is going to look great with scenery, I’m hoping you have some curved viaducts in mind! Thanks for sharing, James
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