jamest

Oh yes, that was the other reason I didn’t originally use that one! I turned off 5 live for the blue hymek. I had my volume low on playback later and forgot.

I sort of agree….i have several…see below. I just wasn’t as happy with my speed control on this one!

Thanks all Inspired to create a quick video….i do need to weather these coaches!

Thanks chaps. i do really like this picture… I’m no photographer but the back scene blend and sky look really good to me. Sorry, self praise is no praise as my mum would have said! regards James

Hi all, I have been playing with the station building over the last few weeks. I bought a stand alone canopy but it didn’t blend that well with the current building and canopy. I decided to purchase a second canopy kit and adapt it to fit the building….making a continuous structure along the platform. Here is how it was… And here are the beginnings of the transformation. I decided to continue the existing canopy slope and cut it into the slate roof of the station building. This was difficult to judge until I built up the canopy but I am pleased with the result. I had to scratch build something for the left hand building end….hardly a massive job but I was pleased with it. I could have left the canopy as a pitched roof against the building but it seemed to join a but low on the wall beneath the tile edge to me. Here are some pics of the progress…. It might be a bit long for a station of this size….but I think it sits on the platform well. Regards James

Hi, On the backscene…..first, don’t be too hasty. If you intend to add lighting or restrict the view by having a picture frame approach (having something along the “top” at the front) the bubbles might not be as visible. If you do go again I would only glue as little as you can. Along the top edge with a narrow line and down the vertical join. Depending on the scenery, you might not need to glue at the bottom…..or it might be covered….so don’t worry if it bubbles. It is a good idea to put a radius in the corner….as you have above. You might need a little glue there to keep it secure….but again think about how your terrain will meet the backscene…it will help you keep the glue to a minimum. Bottom line is you will get some bubbles, so be prepared to hide, or draw attention away. Regards James

Thanks. You are right on the Farish running. The class 25 is noticeably better/smoother than the Dapol Hymek and class 121 out of the box. Although it was 'used' so might have been run more. regards, James

Hi, Having asked about your track on your scottish layout thread, and gotten inspiration from your other layouts, I have taken the plunge and.....joined the 2mm society - got some DG couplings....also a blue hymek and class 25......and a class 121 after seeing your 'winter scene' single line halt. oh and I got a certain book (Small Layout Design Handbook) for my birthday last week. My wife wants a word with you as you are a bad influence apparently 😆. I am planning a micro so I can order some track (sticking with N gauge British Finescale) - hopefully will start something here soon. regards, James

Hi James, I had a scan back through your posts and can't 100% ascertain what track standard you go for on your 2mm/n gauge layouts. I'm thinking of dabbling in something similar as a small distraction from my normal O and OO gauge stuff. You mention on your Blue 37 lowering bit that you did not intend to change the wheels suggesting you use N gauge models on British finescale track? So you don't convert to pure 2mm standards? I am thinking of going to 2mm but I am wary of adding the complication and expense of changing wheel sets - and sticking to split chassis Graham Farish stuff for locos. You show that this is not necessary for fantastic results (assuming my assumption is correct!). Can you confirm your track choice - and if it is N gauge or 2mm FS? Thanks for sharing, and inspiring. James

Hi Chris, Thanks for the invite, I have seen the thread and made a note of the meeting details. I can’t attend tomorrow but will make an effort to on the next one later in the month. Regards James

I’ll take a look Chris, First step done, form sent and fee paid for the association 👍

ok - thanks for the replies. I was definitely going to join the 2mm association early on and give the points a go. The size of the small piece of straight I got in the starter pack was an eye-opener! Or eye squinter! I'm currently selling off some surplus OO stuff to partly fund some purchases! Regards, James

Hi all, I currently model in OO and O gauge but often think about doing something in 2mm or N. I did have a layout on the back of a door done in N gauge a few years back but sold it, and the stock (Doh), to fund other stuff when I had less room. My question is - if I plan to model diesels only, how easy is it to swap out wheel sets to achieve pure 2mm standards? I am aware of the 2mm association and have their starter wagon and track - I've also looked through the shop (I'm not a member yet) and, as with most specialist areas, it does fill me with a little dread. I think I remember being told that split chassis models (like most Graham Farish stuff?) are easy to swap in wheels on - but other types with different pickups are more difficult. Are there guides around for the more difficult tasks? I'm not too concerned with the additional cost - as I don't plan to have a great deal of stock (mostly BR blue stuff) - I just don't want to go up an alley where I need to avoid certain locos because my skill, or part availability, limits my options. The other option being not converting the stock and using the British Finescale stuff as a halfway house. Regards, James

Hi, Liking your period/design and following with interest. Can i ask if your scenic two boards are one BB017 kit? i.e. about 1110mm long? It looks that way, just want to confirm as they seem really good value for money. Regards, James

That is very impressive. I’m guessing you had some prior knowledge of electrics/electronics as that set-up, design, and execution is very impressive. On a layout like this it seems essential, but makes me break out into a cold sweat. The woodwork looks equally impressive. Loved watching the warship circulate, this is going to look great with scenery, I’m hoping you have some curved viaducts in mind! Thanks for sharing, James

Hi, Very envious of the space you have. Looks like a well built, nice and comfortable, environment. Also looking forward to seeing your progress, I get your intention and the balance of enjoyment and realism. I have built several layouts that are mostly linear, but really like the idea of something to watch trains circulating. You seem to have built in some operating interest too. All the best, James

Hi all, Bit more progress to report. I have finished the fencing. This is very difficult to get really straight so it is prototypically wavy and untidy! The chain link/mesh part is very difficult to cut. I struggled to cut it with a ruler and sharp knife - it just caught and ripped. So I marked a 20mm wide band and tried to use some scissors…..better but not perfect. I reckon it looks ok and not perfect is not too bad. I used uhu glue to fix it to the posts and that went very well. It gave enough time to move the mesh about, but held quick enough to enable me to pull the mesh nice and taut. As I say, not perfect but when the various buildings and sheds are in place it will be better hidden. It is also not possible to look down the line parallel to the track! You might have also noticed I have added a wall on the rear right bridge edge and added some capping to the walls and walls. The caps are squares out of plasticard, and the wall tops are scribed plastic strip. This needs to be painted. I plan to add greenery behind the new wall against the backscene . I have also added some basic hedge foundation to the board edge….this is horsehair sprayed camo brown and covered in scatter. The overall scene coming together…..much happier with this against the old bridge combo I did have in this section. I still need to address the ‘meadow’ between the hedge and the mesh fence. A diagonal fence will run from the hedge near the track to the corner of the mesh fence. Animals close to the front and undergrowth on the verge down to the track similar to the other side of the track. Regards, James

Hi Scott, The scenery around the castle looks fantastic - it blends together well and I really like the vertical section with rock and polyfibre. I echo the comments on getting your kids involved too - very well done. Regards, James

Hi all, Bit more progress to report. I have started on the fencing around the raised foreground on the scenic exit. I am using some security fencing (wills I think) that I have used before on Bratton Lane. It is a bit fiddly, and it is difficult to get, and keep, the posts vertical. The shape of the hardstanding has been squared off with a bit more grass so I can have a right angle in the fence and give it a bit more rigidity. The one criticism of the kit I would have is that there is real lack of wire for the three holes at the top of the posts….no where near enough for the posts spaced at 40mm as instructed. I have bought some 0.5mm jewellery wire on a reel but the lengths supplied in the kit are better in that they are straight….and don’t require you to try and straighten them! Here is where I am for now….all using the supplied wire except for the longer top wire parallel with the track. The posts on this section are still being pulled about a bit and still need adjustment. When I have it right I dab a bit of superglue where the wire passes through the posts. Only do this when you have all three wires in place as it is easy to glue something you don’t want to….or block a hole with no wire in it yet! Regards James

Hi David, Thanks very much for taking the time to explain your process so clearly. A few really good common sense tips there. I’ve seen those ofla cutters mentioned before and have one…..just never really had much luck with it. Your method makes sense…..I’ve been trying to do it all with the ofla. Thanks again….and great work on those doors….including hanging them! regards James

Hi David, What tool do you use to scribe your lines, they look clean and effective. Whenever I try that I find a scalpel, or blade, cuts well along a ruler but tends to be a very narrow relatively deep cut. If I use a tool that is more of a ‘vee’ it creates a wider notch but is more difficult to control. I’m guessing there is no magic solution and you have to be careful. And skillful! Regards James

Ha, yes I had to look up the spelling! I nearly put horse hair but then thought no, it’s not that. It’s very useful and a little goes a long way. I always pull it out really fine….then when it shows a little it adds to the effect. Regards James

Hi all, Bit of an update. I have dulled down the wall a bit with powders and sealed it with Matt varnish. I have also added some bushes/brambles using pulled out fine brown postiche covered in gaugemaster dark green leaves. I also plan to add tufts and some other detail. Really pleased with it so far. I still need some grass at the base of the wall near the gate post… Helping to hide the end of the fence and the blend between the bridge and embankment…. Regards James

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