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Phil Bullock

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Everything posted by Phil Bullock

  1. It doesn’t Rab... it’s only the very ends of the brass brush wires that come in to contact and they get polished with use. Used one for years, easiest way to clean Powered wheels for sure.
  2. did you know all moorhens are called Gordon? PS sorry about the intro! https://youtu.be/LTKORcr1jhY
  3. Had the Suzuki Honda 50 equivalent... the U50, looked the same but was a 2 stroke. According to the manual the grace and poise of your machine will remind you of a swan taking off from a lake.....
  4. Had an excellent day at Statfold Barn yesterday...
  5. The original 3 piece grilles are a seperate part on early Bachmann locos.... Phil
  6. Like many of us my modelling career has benefitted from Derek’s input. The free Wagon kits that came with Weetabix must have been his... and a Playcraft Class 21 set was all my parents could afford for me. Still remember the distinctive smell! Rest in peace Dennis ... and thank you.
  7. Thanks Phil M away from home so couldn’t post picture!
  8. It comes off the metal bogie casting at the rear of the bogie. Use a small flat bladed screwdriver to prise it off, hinge it away and lift clear of the lugs at the front. Reverse the process when refitting; make sure all the axle bushes align and are trapped by the frame when refitting. While you have the bogie frame off it’s worth dulling down the visible parts of the brass pick up strips too....
  9. We were on the first train on the Ecclesbourn Valley from Wirksworth on Saturday. Class 14 plus 3 coaches, very nice. Beautifully restored Stanier design Porthole brake M17001 on show at Wirksworth...And good to see the compact signal box from Oddingley in Worcestershire has found a new lease of life...
  10. Having sent 233 on a visit to Churchdown works tonight I can see that additional wiper pick ups have been added to two axles. Top marks to Bachmann for listening... thank you
  11. There is a separate thread .... a few have already been delivered, mine is in the main batch and imminent going by today’s emails
  12. 36-033 ... pack of 10 14mm wheels for non close coupled coaches
  13. Extreme Etchings....and DCC Supplies for Dapol spare ones
  14. Having had one of Bobs conversions pass through my hands I can confirm the comments on here ..... a stunning model
  15. A few more than 15 behind 40032 on MIAC..... but full or empties?
  16. Especially good at removing tampo printing off Bachmann models ... Heljan a bit more resistant . Removal of manufacturers paint generally requires Superstrip as above
  17. Agreed .... but a very carefully applied touch of superglue will retain cup on shaft and eliminate drive slip ....
  18. Nooooo.... we need 21t HOP VBs and MGRs plus derivatives including CBA next please....
  19. Here’s the gen for converting a standard Dapol early headcode Class 22 to a late batch loco. Principles would be the same... with suitable adjustments ... for the retro fitted headcode box locos. First - before doing anything else - get what you need - including pictures of your chosen loco. . Order Class 40 split box etches from Extreme Etchings - EEDP40-18. Also wipers and flush glazing Class 21/22/29 nose end detail pack .... A1 models on Ebay 0.31mm ns wire Silver Tay lamp irons on EBay Brass tube, sheet and plasticard sheet and strip. Whilst you are waiting for those remove existing hand rails and lamp irons. It’s the headcode boxes that are the main work Pilot drill a hole through the moulded circular top vents either side of the doors just below the driver/second man front windows. These together with the head/tail lamp holes will serve to give you location reference points later. Then carefully carve away the head code box surrounds flush with the surface - and all other raised details on the nose end. Leave the outline of the headcode boxes visible. Take a small flat file - handily the most common size is exactly the width of the headcode box aperture - and extend the aperture down 1mm to the lower limits of the existing box you have just removed - the outline will still be visible. Once you are happy with this then clean off all moulded nose end detail and fill existing hand rail and lamp iron holes with squadron putty. Rub down to a smooth surface - the nose doors are recessed, leave them visible as a template for the new doors you are going to make. First job is to sort the headcode boxes. The etches are thin so need to be soldered on to brass sheet....0.5mm is about right. Drill centre of aperture and file out to open up box to internal edge of etching box. The frames are too heavy so file down width from outside too ensuring final results are square and consistent. Sweat on a length of 0.31mm ns wire along the top edge of the box to represent the hinge. Then mount boxes in place on model aligning Internal lower edge of box with internal edge of aperture. Superglue good for all brass and NS fittings but use gel not thin stuff. Ensure boxes are square and height is right relative to reference points and lateral orientation is correct relative to doors and edge of nose. Next job are nose end doors. Thinnest plasticard cut and filed to shape and attached with plastic weld. I then prefer to prime before adding any more fine detail as any defects can be corrected before more detail is added. Now for fine details. Use the reference point holes as drilled above to get the positions correct. Top air vents are brass tube drilled out to get thinner walls. Tube used to get protruding effect as per prototype. Duct in nose doors is a small brass washer recessed in to door, and tail lamp casings are brass signal cranks drilled and filed to shape. The only item used from the A1 models kit in the end were the horn grilles. Headcode box latches and small angled pad above doors are plasticard. Handrails are 0.31 NS wire, as are door and headcode box hinges. Had to fabricate lamp irons by soldering up two irons off the Silver Tay thread...they are fine, made them handed although the prototype ones have central uprights. Could not get those robust! Off the nose ends, two things to check.... drivers name card holder , no longer present on this loco....and any partial blanking of roof boiler port, use thin plasticard. Buffers .... Heljan Hymek are an improvement, fit them and buffer beam detail if required. Assuming you are happy with all of that, it’s out with the paint. Jim used air brush to apply Precision primer, gloss rail blue and warning panel yellow. Then Fox transfers, and works plates if present. Precision Labels will custom print correct data panels. Check photos for missing valances, spray them and fit. Then Matt varnish and weathering to taste. Final touches .... Precision Labels headcodes, then Shawplan flush glazing all over... and wipers from same source. Cab interior modified as lighting no longer lines up, crew are Bachmann 1950s loco crew, they look the part. Just got sound chip and coupling loops to fit before she is good to go.
  20. Phil Bullock

    Dapol Class 22

    Sorry for lack of further updates .... a pesky kidney stone and new job have interfered. But here we go .... trumpet fanfare.... she is finished! No more overscale sleepers either..... As promised have posted blog with details .... access via my profile
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