Phil Bullock

Why not?

Phil’s birthday treat with 7812 at WSR today! Plus I get to play with 7808 and 7802 when we get home tonight….

Only done the front one …. See above. There isn’t much length on the coupling hook shaft so you won’t get much glue bond strength . The one coupling also came apart when I was trying to get it to go over the shackle … the bottom link came off although I have replaced it. Suspect you will be lucky to get them to perform prototypical function….. but wait to be proven wrong!!!

Have had a chance to look at my 7802 … bowled over! Thanks Accurascale… Been looking at fitting the details starting with the front coupling. A key wow for me with photos of the model was getting the coupling on to the shackle under the buffer. Well …. Destroyed one coupling trying so haven’t persisted with the other one. Any advice anywhere please? The coupling as supplied would be a very tight stretch as the bottom shackle is modelled wound up near the counterbalance weight …. If it were at the lower extremity of its travel there might be a better chance … The only way I have got it to work on other models is with a coupling with extended shackles as used on the SR and with the pivot axes of the shackles at 90 degrees so might be doing a swap there… Heres one I did earlier on a modified Bachmann Modified Hall ….

This is bizarre! Mine was a late order … DCC ready, will chip it once I hear what the sound is like in my Sound fitted 7808 this weekend. Turned up today. Sorry for those who have missed out… @Suzy Sulzer mine can come round for a run out if you need a fix….

45110 has suffered the curse of being a company owned asset which renders it an asset ripe for realisation when times are tough … and a major drain on company resources when an overhaul is required. Hagley Hall and Gordon are the only other locos that are company assets … Hagley only got restored when a supporters groups was set up to raise funding. 45690 went the same way a good few years back..,,

Here’s a few photos from today’s work session… Firstly the Pirton end And then Wadborough…

Excerpt from a teenage opera … Keith West

More than this …. Roxy Music

Does that include foil around wine bottle corks? 😉

I would say go for the 18w you rod need enough heat to do the job rapidly without heat transfer to the chip. Get the finest tipped bit you can although as others have said you can file them

This is worth a read… What solder to use? A solder with roisin flux and lead content will give the best results in my experience. Lead content solder is harder to obtain these days due to removal from industrial processes. Always maintain good ventilation though whatever you are using even for our small amount of exposure….

Antex are good and there’s a wide range of tips available including very fine tips . Modern solder is a pain ….. good stuff here… Electrical solder

I like bouncing boing boing boing …. NTNON crew Bouncing song

Clouds …. Joni Mitchell

Get off of my cloud… The Rolling Stones

Hi folks Looking for a Hornby Saint please that we can renumber to 2939 Cleeve Court for the Pirton Sidings layout. This is a community project and Cleeve Court is just down the road….. Will take a punt on EBay if nothing forthcoming here but thought I would ask the assembled throng first. Any reasonable costs covered… thanks in advance.

Hi folks Am looking for a Hornby dublo horse box please. This is for a horse loading diorama on the Pirton Sidings layout. This is a local community project, see info on layout thread if you fancy popping along. Those on eBay seem to have missing doors or are priced as collectors items … not at all worried about a box so thought I would ask on here first before taking a punt. Happy to cover any reasonable costs.

The finest possible bit for your soldering iron. A small Iron is fine …. Make sure the bit is hot and clean. Decent electrical solder and appropriate flux are needed… tin the wire and the pad first. Good eyesight … consider a magnifier … a steady hand and a good dose of courage are also required. Hold the chip securely …. I use one of the helping hand devices with a magnifier and crocodile clips …. But to hold the chip in those it requires protection, I wrap it in thin dense foam as sold by hobby craft. Fitted stay alives to about 35 loksound chips like this with no issues.

The description does help on ECoS although it plays no part in the way locos are listed or searched for … both use the chip address. We really do need 5 digit alpha-numeric addresses!

But I don’t allow any of those on my post 1968 pre TOPS layout! 😉 A more relevant clash for us is when we get the time machine out and lurch back to the early 60s and those lovely Castles appear … 7007 Great Western or D7007?

But surely the two most numerous classes …. 37 and 47 … clash with that convention Mike? Better to use the proper pre TOPs 4 digit numbers…. 😉

Synchronisation looking good too!

Yes sounds bad this Saturday! But I have to wait another week until 19th for my personal birthday Manor fest….