Jon Fitness

Hi Darren, Building an MSE kit is much the same (without all the hassle of cutting things to size) so I hope this helps. Good luck fella

Now you have your basic signal post bits, it's time to join them together. Time to fire up the soldering iron! First, coat the end of the thinner post tube (about 7mm will do) with a thin layer of solder. I have used a liquid flux and Carr's 188° solder and a 25watt iron. Apply more flux to the end of the tube and insert into the wider one and lay it down on a piece of scrap wood. Check the alignment by rolling the tubes back and forth a little. Clean the tip of the iron and apply to the joint until the solder runs. Re-check alignment. If it's moved, re-heat and re-set until correct. Set the baseplate on your piece of wood and see if the post will stand unaided in the hole. (Hopefully it will!) If you are using one, slide the little "concrete" base ring (yes I know it's brass!) down the post on to the base plate. Some of you may have an eye for vertical but I still have a check with the engineers square before I solder the post up. In this case use of the square is made a bit awkward by the base ring but it looks pretty much ok. Apply plenty of flux, a hot iron and some solder to the joint. You may have to be patient while everything warms up but once the solder flows then cools you will have a strong joint. Re- check for correct alignment. If it's not right, re-heat, adjust and allow to cool When the post assembly has cooled you can now fit the pivot tube for the arm. Mark a point about 7mm from the top of the post, bearing in mind the orientation of the pivot to the baseplate (don't laugh, I still get wrong sometimes!) Looking head on at the signal it's on the left side and in line with the baseplate. Prepare the short length of pivot tube by applying a little solder to it. You can keep the tube still by having a piece of wire through it and holding it down on your piece of wood. Try not to solder the tube to the wire (yes I still manage to do that as well..) Set the post assembly down on the wood with the baseplate facing longside left (try it you'll see what I mean) and apply some flux to the area where the mark is for the pivot. With the wire still in the pivot tube, place it on the post at the mark as in the pic and apply the soldering iron to it. Once the solder has flowed remove the iron and allow to cool. The joint should be as in the picture. Time for a signal arm to hang on your post but that's for next time.. More soon.. JF.

An average 7mm scale signal. Haven't had any time to get stuck into the servo operated gantry recently, but as I have been asked to build a couple of simple signals for another layout, I decided to photograph each step as I built one. I've also been asked how to add lights to a signal so I'll combine the 2 jobs! It's not an attempt to win any prizes (I'm not that good) and I realise there are many ways to do this but it's a basic guide to building a simple workable LMS/BR(M) tubular post upper quadrant stop signal from brass etc. I'm doing it with the intention of showing people who maybe haven't attempted a signal but fancy trying one. Please bear with me while I go through the basics. (And feel free to add comments, good or bad!) The build process will have photos of 2 signals but they are both basically the same. Here goes then. Your typical average 20' tall tubular post signal can be made either from a kit from one of the suppliers such as Model Signal Engineering or Scale Signal Supply or you can scratch-build one using a mix of readily available brass tube and parts from the aforementioned suppliers, or even a few home produced bits as I do. The tubes for this signal post are from the K&S range. The upper part of the post is from K&S No 127 which is 3.2mm diameter and is a sliding fit into the lower part (K&S No128) which is 4mm diameter. These equate to a scale 5.5 and 6.5 inches and are pretty close to scale size. The tube for the arm pivot needs to be 1.5mm with an internal diameter of 1mm. There is a basic rule for the dimensions of the posts; For signals up to a total of 22 foot tall the lower part of the post is a scale 7' 3'' from ground level to the change of diameter and 11'' for signals 22-30 feet (after 1944 this was increased to 35'). The tubes can be cut with a good substantial craft knife by rolling the tube back and forth under the blade. Use a firm pressure and keep the blade square to the tube ensuring you have a single cut mark. Do not attempt to cut right through, just leave a good clean score mark. The tube can then be snapped cleanly. This works like a plumber's pipe cutter but without crushing the tube! You can use this method to cut the upper/lower post tubes, allowing about 7mm extra on the thinner tube to slide into the wider portion. The wider tube needs to be chamfered around its circumference where it will meet the thinner tube. Rotate the tube between finger and thumb whilst holding the file against the edge At the same time cut an 8mm length of the 1.5mm/1mm tube for the arm pivot. A baseplate can be cut from brass strip. K&S make a suitable size which is 25mm wide. Mark off a 40mm length using a square and scriber and cut this off with tin snips. I also cut off the corners with a view to rounding them off later! (Doesn't always get done!) Scribe a line up the middle and mark a cross about 7mm in from one end. As my drilling abilities are a bit dodgy I usually drill a 3.5mm hole at his point then carefully widen it out with a tapered broach so the wider part of the post is a tight fit on the hole. This will help later when soldering the post vertically in the hole (Every bit of support helps!) You now have your basic components for the signal post. The small component in the picture marked "concrete" base, is meant to represent the concrete foundations that the post was set in when planted in the ground. I find that this tends to disappear under ballast on a layout so my preference is to omit it.. Now all the bits are prepared, clean up the brass ready for soldering. The labels that K&S apply leave glue behind; this can be wiped off with a bit of white spirit and the metal burnished with a glassfibre brush. More soon. Jon F

Took the goods shed round to the layout to see if it would fit in the 'ole Steve marked out for it. As it seems to, and doesn't look too bad, it's time to take it off again! (Then go away and finish it..) While progress has been slow in my workshop, Steve's finished off his water tower and re-started laying track on the high level station.

Hope his 7mm signal ladders remain available . Still the best etched siggy ladders in my book.

Hi Missy, Good to know you're having success with the MERG stuff B) I may be asking for advice soon . I've come to a temporary stop on this project due to other jobs taking preference but I'm getting "itchy signal fingers" so I'll be back into it shortly Cheers Jon F.

Hi John, 4mm scale? Way too small for me I'm afraid. My "sausage fingers" can only just manage 7mm scale Jon F.

Decided to stick at 5 trusses, which I think gives a full enough look without being too crowded. I've included an internal picture of Waverton goods shed (LNW wooden built, near Chester) as a comparison. I think Steve likes a few lights in the buildings so some level of internal details is necessary. Hopefully it's now time to start the "pretty" bits. Slaters stone walling and embossed slates. I'll probably need some detaily bits from Invertrain(windows, doors, chimneys gutters etc., Duncan Models (wall mounted crane, people etc.) and 10 Commandments (sacks boxes pallets etc)to finish it off. I'll be taking it round to the layout to see if it fits where it's meant to so watch out for more pics soon.

Nice little demo there John. Hope to get back to this project when I've finished the goods shed for the layout. JF

I wish! Even epoxy doesn't stick too well . The only other stuff that works is Evo-stick but that is always a bit "boingy" even when it's set. Might try "Gripfil" or No-Nails if things get too bad. As far as superglue and windows are concerned--"Never the twain shall meet" is the golden rule I think. Evo-stick for a strong joint on windows or double sided sticky tape if you have a nice flat surface behind the window. JF

Zap CA or Zap-A-gap superglue. Seems to be holding firm at the moment. I have previously had some Foamex material that took Plastic Weld but this stuff won't have it! Jon F

Seems a bit busy for a Sunday here in Chester PSB Interfering with my modelling time Had a huge T3 block that had to be shortened and re-written then when the trains started running along come a load of diversions. tsk.tsk. Still... managed to cut out a roof truss from foamex sheet for the goods shed. I reckon I'll need 6 or 7 so being a lazy b+++++r I'll draw round the first one a few times rather than mark them all up. They won't be part of the structure as such, just there to create a bit of atmsphere in the goods shed, especially as I have cut skylights in the roof. I did all of the cutting and left the loose cut outs in position until all of them were loose to keep the strength in it while I was hacking away. The strange notch at the top is to clear the wooden spar that runs between the end walls and acts as the main support for the roof. First trial fit doesn't look too crap bad.

Making a bit of progress with the goods shed for Slugworth. It's not a model of any particular goods shed but a conglomeration of odd pictures I've seen and a major influence is the 4mm scale Townstreet LNW style goods shed that "Coachman" has made in his Buildings blog (thanks for the inspiration Larry ) I'll be using some resin window frames from Invertrain and yes I know it has different styles on each side. Couldn't decide which window shape I preferred so I used both. As this Foamex material I'm using won't accept "Plastic Weld" (a bit odd as the last offcuts Steve gave me would ) I'm using superglue to bond this lot together. Must remember not to drop it as it will probably drop to it's component parts. I've done the inner loading platform and the "shoulders" round the base of the walls (whatever the name for them is and cut some skylights in the roof. I'll be doing a little office to go on the end next.

As Steve had started the water tower building for the loco shed (Made from some parts of a Kittle Hobby engine shed and some Foamex with rivet details added from a sheet) I thought it was time I had a go. Heres a few Work In Progress pics This is Steves tank And the startings of my goods shed for Slugworth. Its made from 3mm foamex and will be clad in Slaters stone plasticard.

Not if Chester S&T are looking after it......

As suggested, a new little station has appeared by the loco shed along with a signal that has mysteriously sprung up . Must be the time of year. . As Steve has named the GW high level station Upper Mill, me and Kenny reckon the new station is called Lower Mill. I think Steve will get back to me on that one... A nice Marcway curved point has also appeared near the junction. I think it was one of those "I've got one of these going spare/free if you can make any use of it Steve" things. Rude not to really Once the ballast is tidied up it will be toned down to match.

Right-oh..... Had a big session with the soldering iron and after lots of muttering, burnt fingers, reversing 10 wires and repairing pcb tracks, I was sort of ready for a test. This lash up, believe it or not, when connected to a 9v battery actually worked I had a play with all the buttons and the servo did pretty much what it was told to do so after disconnecting everything, I boxed it up and away we go on the next stage. Which is mounting 4 servos under the signal

I may well have to! Jon F.

Done some work on the programming box for the servos. The case has to be prepared to accept the switches, buttons and 9way D connector. Overlays are provided to help you do this and also for the mounting board that holds all the "gubbins" inside. 3 resistors have to be soldered to each rotary switch and a bit of pre-wiring done to the pot. After struggling to understand most of the simplest instructions, all thoughts of neatness went out the window and I just wired it up literally using the diagram....which (as I see it) doesn't quite agree with the markings on the circuit board. Some re-wiring to do then More Soon JF

Well not exactly all change, but Steve's Station (reputedly going to be called Upper Mill; doesn't sound very ex GW to me..) has already been changed before it's even reached the serious tracklaying stage. The original wide board which spanned all 4 storage roads and the hidden lines leading to the LM station is now only half it's original width and the retaining wall will be moved back to suit. This has now exposed the inbound and outbound lines to the LM station which run round the back of the loco shed. These have been moved apart wide enough for a small island platform to be installed, just below where the GW station will start to "fan out". Kenny is just suggesting he calls the station Lower Mill....... At least it's a change from painting stone walls...

Fingers and eyes crossed! I'll be starting the programming box tomorrow but theres a lot of prep work to do before I get to the circuit boards.

Hi Mike and Richard, As this electronics lark will be a steep learning curve, I'll try not to mislead everyone with my relative incompetence! I think I've already fried the capacitors by putting them the wrong way round

Ta Richard, Tetley's Mills was definately a bit of inspiration but my fave layouts for nicking getting ideas from are Heyside (7mm) and Wibdenshaw (EM gauge I think) both industrial masterpieces. Jon F.

Well........this is my first attempt at assembling a circuit board. It is the driver board for the servos for the signal. made one mistake which has probably totalled the big capacitors (got them the wrong way round then tested the board..they got a little warm ) It still went through the circuit tests as per instructions but I won't know for sure whether it works until I've made the programming box and can couple up a servo. Still, if I have knackered it, £4 for a learning curve isn't too bad

Finally got round to painting the retaining walls along the edge of the LM yard. About 9 foot of it.. It was all painted in a concrete colour, allowed to dry then a colour mixed about 50/50 matt black and Humbrol 26 ("matt dark earth" I think) brushed diagonally over the raised bits. took about 3 and a half hours including brew breaks. I think it looks ok. Steve's now started the GW station track laying. The station throat board is removeable at the moment, so it can taken down for wiring and fixing up the point motors. It will then be fastened down permanently in the hope that nothing fails below the basebord