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Everything posted by micklner

  1. Your missing the version with the later "upgraded" chassis , that has a much better Cartazzi Truck than the ancient one in the photo.
  2. Zoom in on screen on a laptop it gets rid of the sides etc to suit your viewing, hopefully it do the same for the irrelevant adverts at the same time. Adblocker and Firefox sort it.
  3. It might be easier to take the Bufferbeam off before gluing.It should come away easily with a little pressure with a scalpel blade along the joint. You will be lucky to glue as it is and the Bufferbeam then remaining flat as the glue cures. It needs a some weight to hold it down flat, while the glue sets. When the Beam is off , it will be much easier to paint the Red areas around the outside of the lining which should be Black, which Hornby have ignored as well.
  4. Rails have £30 of mine, for a NER Autocar for nearly 3 years . Non refundable deposits !! I wont make that mistake again. They ignore emails re the same vehicle as well.
  5. Sadly this has become another version of the comments, starting on page 1 , if anybody has'nt read the first page of this thread, I suggest you do so, before ordering items. The only thing that has improved, is people are actually getting something for their money. Many did'nt back in 2018 including myself, I wont get caught again. At least it is a "kit" of sorts is now being recieved, albeit very poorly described and missing parts/sheets of etches. Buyer beware still applies, as in the starting heading.
  6. Check the Chuck Is it running true , no wobbling,. Is it attached to the Drill correctly and not loose on the mounting thread , there should be a spanner inuluded in the box. No unusual noises when running e.g bearings worn out. I hardly ever use mine at high speed , its not needed for most jobs.
  7. Probably the hardest type of Loco to build due the weight distribution on the wheels . I would recomend a 0-6=0 as a first kit. I dont think any kits come with pickups. Most pick ups on kits kits are made using Nickel silver wire, bent to shape.
  8. The ones I use have a large shoulder above a small end shaft that fits into the chuck, therefore much stronger. The ones in the photo look like very cheap versions . Similar to these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144154119988?hash=item2190414f34:g:xesAAOSw1TZhF2~v
  9. Re the Tender wheels. The Martin Finney instructions state Disc Wheels bottom of the last page below. I have never seen a photo of a spoked wheel V2 . It might be a error on this model only ,time will tell. http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/Downloads/LNER 4200 Group standard tender Instructions.pdf
  10. Did they vary? Look at the photos on here https://www.lner.info/locos/F/f8.php They both appear to have different postions ? to my eyes at least !. 420's Cab Front Window looks higher and/or larger , than 1538's in the lower photo of the two photos.
  11. Interesting Bachmann have glazed the Rear Cab Window. Most unusual to see any Loco modelled as such, as the rear window is rarely seen closed on the prototype , perhaps not helped by the "Brown" timber surround on both windows making the windows looking even smaller. Still not convinced re the Boiler/Cab gap, still looks very obvious in the photos, even in yesterdays distance photo of the two types of V2's together it was very obvious , luckily for the LNER version there should be black/white lining in that area. Thanks for the photos.
  12. Mmmm? . The large gap join between Cab and Boiler is very noticeable , the Cab Windows look a tad small, the front facing small cab window on the "V" looks dreadful . Is the Dome a seperate moulding?. Superheater headers look slightly shallow . Valve gear, lining and washout plugs are much better then the original version . Tender looks good, of what can be seen in the photos. Comparison photos https://docbrown.info/docspics/ArchiveSteam/loco60800.htm
  13. Sorry me again, no idea how this Loco is running !! In the photo the front driver crankpin is positioned to the left of center. The other two drivers crankpins are both roughly vertical position ! ?. Hopefully its the angle of the photo !. It does look better !! Well done !
  14. Always check with a 6 inch steel rule on decal lining as it goes onto the model , once happy with position I then always leave each line to dry before adding anymore decals . I only use HMRS pressfix nowdays as the lines should go on straight ,and can be slightly "massaged" if needed into position. The coupling rods still look like they are drooping down in the centre /and or the quatering is slightly out. Or the rods are simply Jidenco rubbish quality? I know you already had problems with them . 52F Models may be able to sell you a set of his etched ones. Or Alan Gibson may have the right size. Good luck
  15. My order from the 5th August arrived today, one month less a day. Half the waiting time of my previous order , hopefully orders/delievery times are now getting better.
  16. I recomend this method. Very cheap and very effective , you can get all you need from B&Q or similar outlets. It is so cheap, I dont bother saving the solution, it also cleans the drains as well very nicely ! Does'nt touch plastic ,but disolves superglue as well as paint.
  17. Never had any problems with current Bachmann or Hornby wheelsets on Coaches/Wagons , they are all metal with a plastic centre bush . They dont look too bad with a drop of paint thereon and are hardly visible compared to Loco wheelsets. They run true etc. Hornby Bogies we have been there before or numerous occasions. If and when the current Hornby Thompson Bogie wheels become available ? , they will be worth buying for me at least. I have dozens of Gibsons on my stock never lost a rim ever , I always test them before fitting and never found a loose one on any (so far!). No idea of Markits prices, or if you can even get them at the moment ? Gibsons are turning into a nightmare to obtain at the moment as well. To change even a few wheels , is far from cheap anymore.
  18. Same response me , I asked re small parts for a NuCast J21 which is not in the current list. Same day reply via email, the kit is confirmed and still not current. but they were willing to try and find the moulds for the couple of parts I need. Very impressed with the response. As I only need some minor cab fittings and I dont think the Nucast kit provided many parts for the Cab area I declined with thanks ,and have sourced the bits I need via Dave Bradwells NER castings (another highly recomended supplier and response via email).
  19. Try this https://www.pearsons-glass.co.uk/safety-solder-flux-ssf Works very well , no fumes and safer.
  20. Red lining was discontinued in 1928.
  21. The front Rod appears to be bent at the left end. Both Rods need to be soldered flat, as there are gaps the centres along both Rods. I am surprised that they are working at the moment.
  22. I may have missed something in this thread ?. Why are some of the Vans shown in the photos fitted with a Vacumn Cylinder but "normal" Brakes e.g Single Brake shoes on each wheel and Brake Levers?. All the fitted Vans/Wagons I have ever seen have dual/two fitted brakes on each wheel. There are no obvious fittings to the Brake Shoes on the sample models or through piping for the Vacumn pipes shown in some of the examples on the Rapido site. Edit I have just looked at the Paul Bartlett site , some BR era Gunpowder Vans thereon have the end pipes fitted and the Vacumn Cylinder. Through piped perhaps ? Why would the Van need a Vacumn Cylinder for that Brake layout ?.
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