BoD

I’ve driven up Glen Ogle a few times with one eye on the road and another on the scenery and path of the old railway. It’s not that difficult to do when you’re stuck behind a caravan. The whole area, Callander car park, , Killin and Crianlarch Lower just oozes a ghostly historical atmosphere. Given the now fictitious nature of my layout that is a good excuse to keep that viaduct, especially as it us on the ‘branch’ line. We shall see.

I have decided to bridge the corner to the branch line with a viaduct I rescued from a previous layout. I allows me at least to run trains. I will replace it with a WHL style viaduct eventually. Unless it grows on me, then I might say "stuff it" and just leave it in.

Having completed the majority of the buildings it is time to take a break from them and work on somewhere to plant them all which means getting rid of the flat earth with holes in it and spending some time creating the landform and scenicky bits. I was lucky enough to win the £100 Hatton's voucher in the virtual exhibition a couple of months ago so I spend it on some woodland scenic bits and pieces. Added to some bits and pieces I already had should give me enough to be going on with. If you look at the prices on there you can work out how long I've had some of them. This one I've had even longer...... To make going backwards and forwards easier I have removed the door bridging section. Normally I just leave this in and crawl under. It will remain out until I've finished forming the scenery because there is a lot of cutting of formers etc and going back and forth. . It means the layout is no longer a full circuit but I can operate it end to end if I fancy a bit play. As long as I don't forget and drive trains into the gap and over the edge!!!!

Thanks. I'll add that to the list of things to consider although current thought is something entirely fictitious - but that is not for your thread. I had a look at the winding house on street view. You would think they had copied your model. Seriously, any idea why it is still standing? Is it listed?

Search for enamelled copper winding wire. It is the wire used for windings for motors (the name gives it away). It comes in different sizes but is very thin. A scalpel or something similar can be used to scratch the enamelling away at the end for soldering. You need to come up with a system though to distinguish positive/negative. Edit Huw - just thinking about this - I’ve got a couple of reels, more than I will ever use. If you want to, PM me your address and I will stick a few metres in the post for you to try.

Come out of the toilets miming playing a ukulele because the hot air dryers are out of use.

I have just caught up with your topic. Superb modelling.

... and how many of us of a certain age remember casting said weights from molten lead? I won't ask you to own up as to how you actually melted the lead, or where you got it from.

If it were that deadly the church roofs of Britain would be littered with dead thieves.

You take a fresh worm and tie it to your hook ......

..... but nothing grows in the shade.

.... so you are finally letting Sam have some light?

For locos I use wire from straight lengths bought in a pack but... ....not for the faint hearted... Secure the wire securely at one end and strongly grip the other end. I use a few wraps around long nose pliers. It helps if you can do a clove hitch. Now, pull quite firmly. Just before the wire snaps (that’s the interesting bit) you can feel it give a fraction as if it has stretched a little. You will find it no longer coils but is slightly more brittle. I’m not sure of the science behind it but it works on the different wires I have used it on. I haven’t tried it on brass but it should work.

An interesting start, you aren’t hanging about are you? Looking forward to following this one.