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  • Location
    A stone's throw from 70B
  • Interests
    2mm Finescale, Nn3 narrow gauge

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  1. I think a lot of Triang's success could be down to their annual catalogue. As I remember the early issues had busy looking layouts that, even if you only had Nelly, Polly or Connie and a handful of wagons, it was something you could aspire to. Very striking visually inside too. Then to commission Terence Cuneo to paint a new front cover picture each year, that was a masterstroke. Each catalogue showed the new products and their release schedule for the year, which created a sense of anticipation. The addition of Minic motorway offered a matching road system that integrated well
  2. That's correct, no reinforcement required, the box is very strong, neatly box-jointed at the corners. I've modified mine so the front hinges downwards, a fairly simple bit of woodwork. The top & bottom are 3mm ply so the track is laid on a removable sub-base of 9mm ply & Sundeala board. Mark
  3. Great idea, well executed. I shall await subsequent issues with interest and can possibly offer some content too. The "four square feet" is an interesting definition, it does considerably favour my chosen scale, especially if it's narrow gauge. I wonder if there ought to be a proportionality of layout size to scale? Here's a sneak preview of a micro I'm currently working on, the Holzkastenbahn, German metre gauge 1:160. Roughly box file size but in a solid wooden box, sourced from ebay for not a lot more than a box file costs. Mark
  4. The Farish mechs that we're discussing are like the classic British bikes of which I'm so fond. Ostensibly very simple and basic but requiring skilled assembly ("blueprinting") to make them work well. I suspect they were designed to make production and assembly affordable in a UK operation. Peter Graham-Farish was quite proud that everything they produced was designed and made in the UK. On the plus side of this, the mechanisms are relatively easily servicable and repairable. The Mazak chassis blocks are fine, the variation comes in the plastic armature holder. I've seen the same as N
  5. The gear looks very similar Valentin. Got to be worth a try for £1.79. I believe Farish gears of this period are 72DP
  6. Ian, simple answer, yes. The Tramfabriek motor spins very freely compared to the Farish motor. The improved mechanical efficiency alone improves things. The basic "Poole" Farish motor design dates back to at least the early 1980s or maybe even before that. The only change was from 3 pole to 5 pole armatures. They respond well to early feedback controllers (ECM, AMR etc.) but this can will overheat them with bad results for the white plastic bearings. I can personally vouch for that! Farish did not recommend using this type of controller but it was just about the only way to ach
  7. There's this chap on email in Nigeria with a bob or two going spare...
  8. That bicycling bellend! I wouldn't give a penny-farthing for his thoughts.
  9. That's the one. A lot of useful bits there.
  10. With the current fine weather and in anticipation of nice summer, I felt I should treat the crew of my J94 to the cabriolet version. To achieve this, a chunk of the rear cab was milled away. It's a little bit of a faff to get it set up in my Proxxon MF70 mill but it's worth it as it's a lot easier to get a neat result than by hand filing. Mazak's not a nice metal to work so it saved clogging up a file or two. As we all know, British summers can be unpredictable so a detachable hard top and a draft screen were provided. Back on planet sensible, I hadn't really intended to do much to t
  11. I think that's the route I'll take. It's a little tight on the sides but there's plenty of room to take the tube over the top of the motor.
  12. Motor mount completed with the aid of that lovely hot silvery-looking glue. The mount is made from a slice of K&S brass tube which I had that was a little smaller than the 8mm diameter of the motor. A horse-shoe shaped strip of brass was soldered to the tube as a fixing strap. Conveniently, the diameter of the tube matched the curved recess in the chassis block casting. The strap was secured using a 12BA screw and nut across the frame. The tube & strap were slit lengthways and the motor just pushed in quite easily but with enough grip to hold it in place. The 0.27mm wall th
  13. Treat my rough sketch merely as a starting point. An immediate improvement would be to either curve the tracks slightly or align them at an angle from the edges of the baseboard. You can see how that would better reflect the type of layout in your photograph and would look better visually. Mark
  14. Here's an example of what I have in mind. it's 7mm scale and very nicely executed. From http://www.aidan-campbell.co.uk/model_making.htm
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