Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

76 Neutral

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Toronto, Canada
  • Interests
    Model trains, historical trains, modern trains, hiking, canoeing, photography, reading, astronomy

Recent Profile Visitors

561 profile views
  1. Have been just checking this -- this is EXACTLY what I want to do, same loco even. Thanks for posting this. So I guess I'm not crazy contemplating this!
  2. Thanks. I'm still tempted to do this but my model has been so nicely weathered in BR black, that it makes me a little reluctant. How difficult would it be to remove its loco body & tender body, and what spray paint would be most recommended? TIA, Rob
  3. I have a Hornby Drummond 700 Class. It runs really well on my shunting layout. It's currently in early BR livery (lion/wheel emblem), numbered 30316. It's also been very nicely (but lightly) weathered by Hornby. I'm thinking of backdating it to LSWR if I can get up the courage. I think the correct number would be 450 and that the loco would still be black (not bright green). Could anyone please confirm if this is correct? And, if I were to purchase transfers, I suspect Fox would be one of the best sources? Thanks in advance.
  4. I'd be interested to find out more about these. I'll google them. Rob
  5. Hi... Just saw this! No, I haven't found a solution. Uncoupling works on some wagons but not others. In the end, I've been using a homemade uncoupler -- I got the "plans" or instructions for making this from one of the very first Hornby Magazines and it works great. An uncoupling ramp would look and work better, but, yes, I gave up on them and now use this uncoupler device instead.
  6. Thanks! The reviews on Youtube are also very positive. I'll check out TMC, especially if you recommend them.
  7. A few random questions here... I'm interested in the Graham Farish 3F -- 372-210A. Has anyone purchased this loco and, if so, do you have any comments re its quality and running ability? My layout has some tight 9" radius curves, which hopefully won't be too tight for it. I've also checked a few of main model venders and get the impression that they're rather low in stock, maybe due to sales during COVID? Mods, please feel to move this post if it's in the wrong place. Thanks, Rob
  8. I just tried this and it definitely made an improvement. Thanks for suggesting this! It runs better forwards than in reverse. In reverse, it doesn't stall, but it's not consistent and smooth. It moves slowly then kind of lunges and then moves slowly again. This is what it was doing before but less extreme. At any rate, it's an improvement. I'll keep tinkering.
  9. Thx! I see what you mean. I’ve often been tempted to get the Baccy version and may consider that.
  10. Thanks again for the info above. I was away for a bit and am just getting back to my layout and work, etc.
  11. Thanks for your feedback. In what ways, though, are Railroad models actually toys? Sure, they're more basic (less detail) but my SDJR 3F does look like an actual 3F and runs reasonably well. If it were really a toy, would it not be out of proportion, have major scale problems, and only vaguely resemble the real thing? My understanding was that the Railroad items were still scale models, just more basic and less detailed. Not being sarcastic or anything, just a friendly question. :-)
  12. Thanks for this feedback! I’m using a Gaugemaster controller. Located in Canada so it’s called something else. Will follow up with these suggestions.
  13. OK, I just did some googling and it seems the best way is to remove the loco's driving wheels and make adjustments. This sounds like a bit to much surgery for me, for what is really a minor problem. I was hoping there might be a quick tweak I could try that might improve it.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.