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mike morley

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Everything posted by mike morley

  1. Both the height of the buffers and the way they are mounted on the cab back sheet doesnt look right to me, and the footboards stick out beyond the footplate far enough to make me wonder what sort of loading gauge it was built to. Could the picture be a fake? A Victorian version of Photoshopping?
  2. My only thought with the crane is that it looks a little cramped where it is. Move it towards the stop blocks by, say, a wagons length?
  3. Footnote, prompted by re-reading all your suggestions and realising I'd failed to mention Jeff Smith's. It's fitted with a Perseverance gear bracket and Romford 40:1 gears. When I first built it I was suffering from a plague of gearwheels that werent quite concentric (I had four or five, all from different sources) so mesh, concentricity etc. would have been checked and rechecked very carefully then and the motor run in on the bench connected to just the gears.
  4. Thanks for all your responses. To cover all the points raised . . . The loco is a Dean Goods with a Hornby body, a compensated Perseverance chassis under the loco and a compensated Comet chassis under the tender. At one point I replaced the Perseverance chassis with a Comet chassis but it made no difference and I didnt like the Comet chassis so I went back to the Perseverance. During one of the chassis changes it went from Gibson wheels to Markits. It began life with conventional wiper pick-ups on just the loco, had them added to the tender later then changed again to American-style pick-ups. Nothing made any difference. The motor is a rather tight fit in the firebox and at one stage I wondered if the problem was caused by the motor being squeezed. That theory was able to be rejected when removing the body didnt make the slightest difference. At another stage I wondered if drag from the tender was causing the problem. Again, removing the tender made no difference. One thing I have noticed is that the problem is far worse on the track than on the rolling road, to the extent that on more than one occasion I've come to the conclusion that my latest tinkering session had been successful, only to discover that it quite definitely hadnt when I tried the loco on the track. This is the first time I've noticed the motor was getting hot but it might always have being doing that without me noticing before. With regard to end float, I've found with 1220s that "running clearance" is a little tighter than they like and that they prefer just a little room room to move. That's the clearance the 1224 has got and although I dont remember doing so I'm sure I would have experimented with clearances during one of my previous abortive attempts to cure the problem. It's DC powered and after finding another loco of mine, powered by a Mashima 1628, is extremely controller fussy and will only run properly on a beaten up old wreck of a cheap and nasty Gaugemaster I experimented with everything from an ancient H&M Duette to a high-spec Kent Panel Controller via the aforementioned Gaugemaster without, as usual, it making the slightest difference. So much has been tinkered with or replaced without making the slightest difference I'm starting to suspect the problem has to be the motor itself, simply because there's not much else left to try! Barclay's broken wire to one pole will be investigated but the matching symptoms means Becasse's broken magnet is what I'm expecting to find. Thank you all for your assistance.
  5. I'm trying to sort out a loco that, despite much tweaking, hasn't run right since the day it was built. The controller needs to be wound up far beyond the point needed to get any other loco under way before it even thinks about moving, then suddenly it takes off like a rocket. The controller is promptly wound back to what ought to be the level needed for a steady speed and the loco responds by slowing to a halt. Increase power by the merest fraction and it promptly resumes runaway rocket mode. (Old bikers amongst you: think 1970's two-stroke) My latest investigations have revealed that after just 10 to 15 minutes on the rolling road, with no load (obviously) and the body removed so nothing to retain any heat, the motor was rather more than merely warm. Is this another symptom or the cause of the problem? A quick survey of my loco fleet reveals that, astonishingly, I don't have a single other 1224-powered loco so I've nothing to compare it with, but I was always led to understand that all Mashima motors were cool running.
  6. I have a Markits Wakefield lubricator I wanted to use and I thought the best way to install it without making things excessively complicated would be to make a replacement nickel-silver footplate that was part of the chassis, rather than the body. In the end, I didnt fit the lubricator (chickened out) but I might go back to it another day. I find with saddle tanks in general it is easier to make the tank and boiler a separate unit that slides over the motor from in front like a sleeve. I've got three saddletanks built and two being built that way so I've done it often enough to know it works. Far easier than the weird and wonderful contrived system Hornby (and, I think, DJM) used for making the bodies detachable on their Austerities/J94s.
  7. Full bells and whistles upgrade of a Hornby body. I'll dig her out and take a picture of her undressed later.
  8. I've got one built with a second to be done. An RT Austerity chassis is well within the capabilities of a novice. The only area you might find tricky is the buffer beam gussets, where holding them in position while soldering them in place without scorching your fingertips in the process can be . . . interesting. At one point I managed to solder a pair of tweezers to the chassis! For that reason I'd advise building the single-gusset version (not sure if the J94s had double-gussets, anyway). Apart from that, its all very straightforward. Confidence is everything, so I'd suggest a bit of practice on odd scraps of metal to get into the swing of things before starting the actual chassis. Mine has a big 1628 Mashima and a High Level Road-Runner Plus powering it. That vast saddle tank is more than capable of accommodating pretty much any motor intended for 4mm use so I'd suggest asking Chris at High Level what he recommends when you order the gearbox. Edited to add that Markits do indeed do appropriate wheels. The one I've built has got Markits wheels, the one waiting to be built will have Gibson wheels. Markits wheels are more expensive but much, much more novice-friendly.
  9. I cannot recall ever seeing an oil pipe that didnt have evidence of spillage below it, too.
  10. Early part of the same walk. I think this is part of a sawmill a mile or so outside Welshpool. The mixture of stone, slate, timber, new and old brickwork and vegetation would be a real challenge to model without it looking contrived.
  11. Jonathan's picture of the burnt-out hut made me dig out my own Montgomery Canal pictures. I hoped to have a "before" picture, but evidently haven't. Instead I realised I'd obviously been in Bridge Mode. Self-captioning! I'd be willing to tackle those railings, but to do those main girders justice would require skills and facilities I lack. This is the canal version of an occupation bridge and is fairly typical of the type found throughout the canal system. They're stronger than they look. There's on one the Grand Union Canal just north of Leighton Buzzard that serves The Globe pub, so has to withstand the weight of brewers drays. Another autographed bridge to challenge those with the skill to do their own custom artwork and etching! This one is at Abermule. Finally, the younger brother of a much more famous bridge that can be found further down the Hafren, in another country. And if you fancy having a go, here's the Master's version
  12. I've never got on too well with Limolene, but a few months ago posting a request for alternatives prompted some interesting responses - particularly the one from Tony Gee, towards the bottom of the page.
  13. I was once told that mushrooms had brown gills while toadstools had pink gills. Trouble is, on the few times I've thought to look since the gills could always be described as either pinky-brown or browny-pink with equal accuracy.
  14. Gauging weirs are usually kept in immaculate condition with much evidence of solar panels and radio ariels. That one looks a bit down-at-heel with no obvious means of keeping things monitored remotely, which I would have thought would have been a high priority in somewhere as isolated as the Hafren Forest. Puzzled
  15. If you are still unhappy with the window frames, you might find some replacements of the right size at https://yorkmodelrail.com/product-category/00-scale-ho-scale/windows-louvers-00-scale-ho-scale/page/2/ With the possible exception of the semi-circular arch above the windows, I reckon the tower is supposed to be stonework rather than brickwork, so whatever colour you paint it would depend entirely upon the nature of the stone wherever your layout is set. Assuming that is somewhere around Bedminster, I would suggest a pale creamy-grey. With regard to the brick window arches (and I'm not 100% convinced they really are supposed to be brick. They look a bit too big for bricks, to my eye) I would think engineers blue bricks are more likely than red. Engineers blue are a very dark, almost black purplish-blue with a vaguely metallic sheen.
  16. With kit-built chassis, a crankpin that keeps on undoing itself is regarded as a symptom rather than the cause of the problem. Less-than-perfect quartering is the usual cause in such situations. I can't remember the last time I looked at an RTR chassis so I've no idea if it's even possible for the quartering to slip but I would certainly suggest you investigate that possibility very closely.
  17. This was originally intended to be a quick and easy scenic backdrop for a lorry kit I was building. Several months later, the shell has been rebuilt three times (first time because the original version still looked more like an Airfix church than an up upland longhouse, second time because I caught it on one corner as I picked it up and ripped it apart) and it's on it's fifth roof. The lorry kit never did get finished.
  18. Do we have the word of anyone more reliable than the notorious Mr Dunn himself that the company is actually for sale? I've just spent a while on Google, searching every combination of wording I can think of, hoping to learn more but have found precisely nothing.
  19. Definitely! I have hefty, powerful, well-balanced 0-4-0's that can be easily out-hauled by comparatively light, moderately-powered 0-6-0's.
  20. Par for the course with most Cambrian kits, I'm afraid. Unco-operative corners and bump-stops that don't line up with axleboxes are also regular problems.
  21. Former village tap. St Briavels. Moat and castle behind. Village well. Still in water. Lots of Hart's Fern inside. Unfortunately the picture I took looking in was way out of focus. That grid is about five feet tall. Not sure what the tuft of wheat(?) hanging from it signifies. Also St Briavels. Remnants of a chicken coop. St Briavels common. Semi derelict milking shed for cattle. About 15 yards from the chicken coop. I doubt if either will be there for much longer because there was a JCB hard at work at the other end of the field they were in and much newly-delivered building materials stacked around. Intriguing one, this. You often see old rail turned into fence posts and sometimes it is of quite lightweight nature, probably of narrow-gauge origins, but this bulb-head rail is is so dainty it's difficult to imagine what it was originally used for, The entrance to someone's property on the lane down to Brockweir. Finally, a warning and a plea. Countless times yesterday we found footpaths so badly overgrown through lack of use that they we had to fight our way through and a few times things got so bad changes of route were forced upon us. On the return leg (our intended route was St Briavels/Brockweir/along the Wye to opposite Llandogo then angle up through the woods back to St Briavels) nature had reclaimed the path completely - and I don't mean the path had become so overgrown it was impassable: I mean that nature had completely reclaimed the path to the extent that it was impossible to tell a footpath had ever existed. Four or five times in little more than a mile we found ourselves struggling to fight our way through, looking for paths that had ceased to exist, and we came dangerously close to running out of daylight. So, everybody, use the country's footpaths while they still exist and by using them help them remain in existence. Take a pair of secateurs as well as your camera with you, plan plenty of alternative routes in advance and allow far, far more time than you think/hope your walk will actually need.
  22. Severely cramped bridges were usually low rather than narrow. A major problem with what you are proposing is what might happen if there was an accident or breakdown while the loco was under the bridge. How would the crew get out? If there was a real bridge that narrow it would probably be worked by horses.
  23. This is supposed to be a hobby, not an obsession.  So why have I just spent two hours trying (and failing) to find out how far up the walls of the cowhouse I'm making the tethering rings should go?

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. mike morley

      mike morley

      Finally, finally found a clue.

      https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/620641

      I make it the ring itself is 2'3" off the ground, which would make the staple securing it 2'6".

      Is this the agricultural/architectural equivalent of rivet-counting?  I've a horrible idea it is . . .

    3. Captain Kernow

      Captain Kernow

      I fear it is the equivalent of rivet counting, namely ring counting, so you would appear to have something in common with those who like to investigate the age of trees.

       

    4. Sasquatch

      Sasquatch

      It's a downward spiral from here on out if you have nothing better to do than worry about cows rings!

  24. You might find these help. On special offer, too! https://www.booklaw.co.uk/booklaw-publications/modelling-aspects-of-the-coal-industry.html https://www.booklaw.co.uk/booklaw-publications/modelling-furthur-aspects-of-the-coal-industrty-vol-2.html
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