Dave

Snap ! I'm a little further on than you but expect you'll finish way ahead of me. I'll be interested to see where some of the small parts go as I haven't got any detail drawings and can't find any on the internet. Regards Dave

Hi Robert, Thanks for the info, worked first time. Still very pleased with the controller, it's wonderful not having to plug and unplug all the time when moving around the layout. Regards Dave

Definitely worth the wait, I had to order mine from Germany so it only has the German software, but if anyone knows how to change to English please let me know, I can't find it in the German instructions. Very happy with the performance as it works straight from the box and up to 40m from the receiver. Definitely 'plug and play'. Small bump on the back that holds the batteries but it fits nicely into the palm of my hand.

Hi, Thanks for your help, I'll look at the JMRI and see if it'll work alongside RR & Co. Dave

Hi I already have the Lenz computer interface as I'm running RR & Co, all I need is to know if the UWT-100 works with the Lenz interface. I know the Lenz interface works if you hook up a router directly to the Lenz and I have used the Touch cab app but I'm not too happy with controlling a £2000 loco with an iPhone as it gets a bit hectic at times as you need to look at the iphone screen. Maybe I should phone Bromsgrove? Regards Dave

Hi, Does anyone know for certain whether it works with a Lenz 100 system? I've been searching but cannot find an answer anywhere. Regards Dave

Probably Heljan gears ! Dave

Oh goody, another castle build, I'm looking to buy one at Telford this year so will follow this carefully.

Hi, Electro magnets will magnetise if the current is DC as this produces a North and South pole. AC current reverses the polarity the whole time and therefore does not magnetise. You can also use an AC magnet to demagnetise anything by slowly removing the magnet whilst the current is being applied. Dave

One end of the black box is made to fit the end of my module, but the other end fits to the club modules or other members or then again if we require a 'special' we just move things physically and bolt together without using the dowels and if the bolt holes don't align, we just use a pair of wood clamps. That's why the rail height is important, the rest you can fix. Regards Dave

Hi Jack, We use the standard CL dowels and bolts, the only dimension that is standard is the rail height from the floor. As you can see I have 1 connection that is the black box and another for when the modules are set up at home in the cellar. Both use the same dowel(s) and bolt holes. So you start with 4 modules like this............... 2 months of hard work gives this ( we had to be ready for the first outing) Then 3 years later we have got so far, just some buildings and lots of trees and bushes to go. Regards Dave

Hi, The other solution is to make a specific adaptor from your own modules to a 'standard', then you can connect up to anyone else. The black box with the computer screen on is one of these and connects my 4 UK modules to the American and Norwegian ones further along. Total length about 40 meters. DCC controlled with RR & Co and 4 power districts. We also use a telephone exchange to talk to each other, as we don't send trains up the line, but take them from your neighbour. Regards Dave

Hi, Have you seen this site for photos of 1450? http://1450.fotopic.net/ Regards Dave