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Godders

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  1. Hi njee20 This is not an argument, it is a discussion. I have no intention of upsetting anyone. I don't know Wayne only studied his products, past and present. My hope is that his products will work fine and by what he has produced so far, I think they will. If I was still working in the petrochem industry, I would be asking many more rigorous questions. However this is a hobby and this guy is trying to produce much needed products at very acceptable prices. I want him to continue and be successful and I don't think this is the time to question certain aspects of what
  2. "Wayne's not used 3D printing before in N gauge though, and he's said it's a blend of multiple resins he's using, so I'd not fancy the chances at being able to say with any real conviction. Again though, I wouldn't foresee it being an issue. Painting it may be a good idea, as that'll stop UV related degredation. Unpainted in a garden may be the biggest issue - a lot of 3D resins go brittle under continued UV exposure." Painting may well slow down UV related degradation but if you don't know what the material is, how can you possibly apply the appropriate paint finish to it. Painti
  3. I would have thought the question of life expectancy, would be known to, "FinetraX", as they have been manufacturing for many years, in N gauge. In addition the supplier of the plastic for printing will probably, also have a predicted or actual life expectancy. Do people always ask this question, as I don't remember anyone asking the life expectancy of; Peco, Hornby, Bachmann, Dapol, Accurascale or any other of the myriads of suppliers. Indeed, does anyone ask how long their house is going to stand or their car going to last.
  4. Hi Wayne, most of the people, who have taken the 16.2mm route, have done so because of Templot. We want to have a consistent system, please don’t ruin your product by diverting from a well trodden route. Cheers Godders
  5. Hi Wayne, I thought, as you were creating as a B7 the templates would be available by using Templot or am I missing something. BTW best of luck and congratulations. I have been wondering for a long time why you hadn't done this. Cheers Godders
  6. I haven't actually touched one of these but from what I can see, on the Fleischmann site, they are wired as follows; There are 3 connections, Black, light Brown and dark Brown. The Black wire is common, the other 2 change the direction of the solenoid. I have not discovered which direction is which but it is easy to tell. Connect the Black wire to one leg of your power supply, which should be an ac supply between 12 and 14 Volts. to test it touch the other leg of the power supply, momentarily, to one of the Brown wires, observe the way the point moves, if at all, then do the sam
  7. Hi Dave, I was surprised, nay shocked, that you were using Peco BH. You were my role model for 4-SF, I thought you would have just, "knocked up", a Double Slip in 4-SF. Hahaha Regards Godders (The fat guy from Three Bridges)
  8. Hi David, your statement is puzzling. If I read you correctly, you are saying a dcc loco uses more power than a dc loco and therefore needs micro switches. However, you only use 1A ratings. Please explain. My friend, who has a large US layout, uses the switch blades only, to my disdain, and has done for 20 years of dcc operation, without problems. The layout is 30ft x 10ft and only has about 6 feeds. It was converted from dc to dcc by simply changing the controller. Thank you Godders
  9. Thank you Tim and Hayfield, I had not realised that the pcb is effectively taking the place of the base of the chair. Now it all makes sense, excellent. Thanks Godders
  10. Hi Hayfield I am a little puzzled by your use of the jig. You have placed pcb strips where it looks as if crossing timbers should go. I would have thought that the pcb strips would have been placed as if between the crossing timber positions. Am I wrong and if so what do you do with pcb ends and how do you place the timbers. Cheers Godders
  11. As you mentioned the Steel works how about this. Middlesbrough to Saltburn section, passing the following Dorman Long Steel works with it's myriad of sidings for input of raw materials and output of finished steel rolls for example. Behind Dorman Long the reversing sidings for the Potash trains that go from the Mine down steep hill with hoppers, where it reversed at Dorman Long sidings and then to the dock where it reversed again. It did the same on the return journey. The line from Saltburn also carries Trans Pennine Trains and class 153 and 14x trains.
  12. The speed in itself would not affect the electrical contact. The speed of anything compared to the speed of electricity is very low. I would suggest that it is more to do with the mechanical characteristics of the trains, perhaps wheels "crabbing" i.e. the wheel not parallel to the track. Probably won't occur in long wheelbases, 6 coupled for example. Possibly another case of BtoB too small.
  13. I think you need to check the facts before making such statements. This is not true in the case of 4-SF (00-SF), which have exactly the same clearances as EM. Also if this were true N gauge would be better because the clearances are smaller than either 00 or EM. The fact of the matter is it doesn't matter what the gauge is from an electrical point of view.
  14. Please explain why EM is different to: 00, H0 or any other gauge. Cheers Godders
  15. You can also buy the vees from the EMGS but I'm not sure if it's a full crossing like the C&L ones
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