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Godders

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  1. I tried these years ago and have never looked back. Watch the video and then visit website to see variations:
  2. 24 hours later, the problem had cleared and all is back to normal viewing in Chrome. Haven't reinstalled AdBlocker yet. Godders
  3. The RMWeb "Ad-blocking software/plug-in detected." is blocking my access to RMWeb, via Google Chrome, despite having : A) Disabled my adblockers and B) Removing my adblockers completely. However, as you can see, RMWeb works perfectly OK in Firefox. Any suggestions, as I can't get into the Chrome version of RMWeb as I am logged in automatically. Cheers Godders
  4. Hi James I happened to be repairing my 56 and came across your article. I drew a circuit diagram, I hope it helps. I would like to know how the buffers are held in position. All 4 of mine have fallen out. Godders
  5. Yes, Mick, I have indeed noticed that over the years. The main problem, as with everything on RMWeb and elsewhere, is finding what you want, when you want it. Nevertheless all very interesting and helpful. One can spend hours perusing. Godders
  6. Thank you both very much for the information. Micknich, I have already being looking through many of your diagrams but I didn't spot this one, very helpful, I like diagrams. Thanks Godders
  7. Hello Folks I hope it is permissible to re-open this subject. I am going to design an interlocking frame for my layout. I have searched and not found a definitive answer to my problem. The question is this; On a turnout with a FPL, is there interlocking on the frame as well as on the points themselves. Cheers Godders
  8. Hi Andy, There is a problem with your solution; if Wayne does it commercially it will be restricted to the curvature he chooses. Unlike the present system purchasers will not be able to curve it to their own requirements, thus taking away one of the advantage of a kit. Wayne the turnouts you have produced with the cast frogs are excellent and I believe the rail built ones will be also. Cheers Godders
  9. Hi Martin, How could you ever doubt that I would put a set in the rail. However, my commission was to build the turnout kit, following the instructions, which I have done. You may have noticed my comments about not gluing the Vee or soldering the electrical connexions. This is because I wanted to explore other paths after the initial assembly. Oh ye of little faith cheers Godders
  10. Hi Wayne, I forgot to ask, when will the 00-SF be on general release, I need several. Cheers Godders
  11. Hi Wayne, It was an absolute pleasure, your design is excellent. I have just corrected the Check Rail End Gap, following Martin's advice. Even the correction was easy, because of your construction method. That's the beauty of having we peasants building the test kits, we are doing it to see if it can be built by the less skilled as opposed to experts. However, having now built one, I feel I have become an expert. (Yeh, right) I shall attempt to build a curved version, after absorbing the advice handed out by certain people, who are located West of the Severn. However it won't be today, the stress would be too much for a sensitive person such as myself. Again Wayne I wish you the best of everything and hope Good Fortune smiles on you. cheers Godders PS I was really impressed by the strength, alignment and look, of your chairs. It made threading rail so easy.
  12. Hi Martin, you were perfectly correct. Thank you I have corrected the actual check rails (very easy with this kit) and amended my post. cheers Godders
  13. Late on Saturday morning the postman handed me a largish box. I was excited to get it and took it through to my desk for examination. I have been waiting, with baited breath for the 00-SF version. I believe that I was the last (lucky) person to be given a test kit of the: § B7 left hand standard turnout kit, OO-SF with code 75 Bullhead rail. The parts of the kit are clearly displayed in the packaging. I opened the kit package and duly read the instructions, several times. Only then did I arrange the pieces, for photographing, on my desk. I will list them as per the instruction leaflet: · Turnout Base · Cast Crossing ‘V’ (frog) · Code 75 rail o 2 stock rails o 2 switch blades o 1 rail, for cutting to form: § 2 check rails and § 2 heel rails · 1 Tie Bar I displayed the pdf of the turnout, on my PC. https://www.britishfinescale.com/v/vspfiles/pdftemplates/00/Standard/B7/00_B7_TEMPLATE_A3.pdf I also displayed a Templot template of a 00-SF B7 left hand turnout. I measured the lengths of the check rails and duly cut 2 to 52mm, the rest of that rail I cut into 2 parts, to form the Heel Rails At this stage I then prepared every rail end by cutting with Xuron cutters and filing square with a 6 inch file and slightly tapering the bottom flanges. Everything was deburred. This is to help the rails pass through the chairs. I threaded every rail, one by one, into it’s final position, to be sure there were no, “tight spots”, there weren’t. I found cutting the switch rails to length a bit tedious, but I wanted to get it just right and this required a little bit of trial and error because it also needs the Tie Bar to be in place. The Tie Bar itself caused me a little confusion. I was not initially aware that: a. It has a top and a bottom. The top is distinguished by a chamfered section. b. It has tiny holes to accept the pins dropping from the switch rails. In addition to this one of the pins was too long and interfered with the sliding action, not allowing full movement of the Tie Bar/Switch Rails. This was easily cured by filing down the offending pin. I assembled the whole turnout and tested with 3 randomly picked wagons and it worked beautifully, literally as smooth as silk. At this point I realised I had not bent the check rail ends and it is not absolutely necessary for good running, as the chairs guide each end of the check rail, in a gentle arc. However, I got the flare length, from the Templot template: The Flare Length is 12mm and the End Gap is 1.58mm. Even with the flares the check rails easily slide into position. Please note at this point in time that I have not made any electrical connections, nor have I glued the “V” in place. The reason for this is that I want, with Wayne’s permission, to see if I can curve the turnout so that the Turnout Road radius is 30 inches, my minimum radius. I must say I am absolutely delighted with the kit. It is easily built and produces an incredibly strong, realistic looking turnout. I have wondered for years why nobody has made a kit like this and my hat goes off to Wayne for so doing. He deserves every plaudit and hopefully lot’s of profit for his effort Please forgive the quality and distribution of the photos. I've never uploaded photos before.
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