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57xx

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Everything posted by 57xx

  1. I used the PP white enamel primer as specced on their site. I used to religiously use Halfords rattle cans but they are not very cost effective and quite wasteful. Coverage of enamel top coats on them was always good. Once my current stock is gone, no more will be bought. This is also one of the reasons for having a play with the Vallejo acrylic primers.
  2. Yeah, when I was doing a couple of LMS vans in LMS bauxite, I followed the Phoenix Precision advice to use white undercoat (their site suggests all their paint is formulated for a white undercoat (or I've misread it)). Never again! Coverage was a nightmare, it took about 3 sessions to get something passing muster.
  3. Maybe the middle one was done by an apprentice. As well as poor letter spacing on most of the words and a missing letter, the letter styles differ in several places. Actually, on closer inspection, I think all 3 were lettered by different people.
  4. Actually, I should correct that - the black is the first undercoat. That was left a week to dry properly, then a second undercoat went on, this time red oxide from the ubiquitous Halfords rattle can, sprayed lightly with a slight downward angle. This has left the crevice's in the woodwork looking darker. Whether this will show up as a shading effect after the dark brown top coat, who knows. I had also done a test with on and old scrapper wagon, putting the freight brown directly on the black Vallejo primer. Whilst the black primer worked great as a base for the GWR freight grey on the CC7, I wasn't overly pleased with the result of the brown over it, hence opting for the red oxide as a better base colour. The roof has also had a mist of dirt sprayed on it. It won't get weathered too much as these were built starting in 1939, right at the tail end of my timeframe.
  5. Yes, absolutely, the black is just undercoat. I have some Precision "GWR Freight Van Brown" to go over the top of it.
  6. 3 years after posting this, a bit more progress was made on the D299! There was some talk of Vallejo primers in another thread (I think Neal's Henley on Thames) and what colours they came in. Remembering I had some in Dunkelgelb (German dark yellow for a Panther tank kit I have) I thought it might make a good experiment to use for a heavily weathered wagon. For my late 1930's era, what better than to use an old Midland wagon for this. For anyone wonder what colour Dunkelgelb is, this is Vallejo's take: Whilst the airbrush was out, the Fruit D got an undercoat and had the roof painted.
  7. The LMS grey livery should really be described as pre 1935, not pre 1936. 😉 Which of the two grey's prior to 1935 did you opt for; 1923-1929 or 1929-1935 ?
  8. They will still work. I can run the short couplings round the (roughly) R2 curves on my test track without any issues. Order a pack of Bachmann 36-061 and try them out. 🙂
  9. If you make the coupler part the same dimensions as the Bachmann short straight, I can't see why they wouldn't be compatible. The tails slot into the NEM pockets on the wagon just fine and give a much better distance between stock. Source: I tried it on my Iron Mink.
  10. I remember a looong time back, the company I was working for had a religious observance calendar. There must have been a good half dozen different religions on there, showing all the religious holidays and I remember sitting with colleagues working out the best faith to convert to in order to get the most days off. 😂 It was however too long ago for me to remember which one it was.
  11. "but it only cost 2p to add, so why not" I'd rather time (and the 2p) was spent on getting external items we can see correct. (quietly hoping that has been done but haven't seen any evidence of it yet)
  12. Nice, Matt, they looking spot on now.
  13. Ah yes, door bangs, I was too busy looking at the brakes to notice that too. 😀
  14. If you are able to add a page to the www address, then there is quite a simple way: https://blog.hubspot.com/website/html-redirect There are other methods that I cannot remember now, it's been a long while since I did any hosting, hopefully someone more up to date with things will come along.
  15. What's the heritage of the opens, Matt? I noticed they have the central V hangers missing.
  16. Indeed it is not the browser's fault. The www subdomain should really have a redirect on it to the TLD to help out where people don't realise that some sites are now abandoning older conventions.
  17. If they are anything like the Iron Minks, they should come off pretty easily, only a light bit of glue was used on the mink I have, I found it easy to remove for repainting. @RapidoCorbs The off white roof colour looks to have come out nicely, a good evolution from the pure white used on the iron minks and toads.
  18. Catching up on this thread and loving the content. One pointer on wagon construction - the top two planks on a seven plank wagon as shown would be one piece running the full length, so when replaced, the unpainted plank would be all the way across. Getting very picky, the lower left plank should also be unpainted to the left of the ironwork. Hopefully useful pointers to lift things up that final notch.
  19. I have some Humbrol thinners, I don't like it at all. It nearly ruined one paint job I did with it. I much prefer to use simple white spirits for thinning Precision (or any enamel) paints. If they aren't touch dry within an hour, something is most definitely up.
  20. It looks very much like the copper cap on the chimney has also been buffed up.
  21. 57xx

    Little Muddle

    I've done this a few times myself. I've got an OR Toad, a macaw and a 4200 amonst others, all in BR livery from the bargain bins (so much for being more popular) , because i knew I'd be hacking them about.
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