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  1. You might find this interesting - https://www.railengineer.co.uk/ertms-on-the-east-coast-main-line/
  2. The decoder is plugged in, 21 pin. It had red/white lights both ends before the reblow, so I'm guessing the change to 2 whites at one end is down to the programming. I don't have the function key assignment list, it didn't come with one. Edit - Found a list on the DC Kits website. Thanks. Class 08 V13 Bulletin.pdf
  3. Hi All, Does anyone have any advice regarding the operation of the lighting on the Dapol 08 when fitted with a Loksound v4? I have had the chip sitting in a drawer for ages, the chip originally having Hornby 08 sounds on it. Before I had it re-blown with leggomanbiffo sounds, as soon as track power was switched on, all lights came on on the loco (including the cab light), pressing F0 didn't do anything. Marker lights had one red and one white at each end, which is what I want it to display. Since having it re-blown, lighting operates more or less the same, but it shows 2 white lights at the cab end. F0 and F19 alter the lighting, but in a way I'm not bothered about. What I want to do is have one red and one white light at each end, and if possible be able to switch the lights on and off. Although I have a very basic grasp of re-programming CV's, I have had a look through the loksound v4 manual and cannot make head nor tail of what CV's I need to change! Can anyone offer some guidance on what CV's need changing, and to what values, to get the lighting working better? Thanks, Stu.
  4. dmustu

    Dapol 08

    Cheers, after some perseverance, I got the roof section off. As you say, it's tight the first few times!
  5. dmustu

    Dapol 08

    Hi All, I decided to treat myself to an 08, my first foray into O gauge. Does anyone have any advice on getting into the model? I have tried following the instructions of squeezing the bodysides gently to lift the roof section off, but it feels like it's welded on, there's no sign of any give in the clips holding it in place! I have looked at removing the bodyshell completely by unscrewing the two small screws on the underside, these came out easily, but the coupling hooks pass through the body moulding, and are attached to small brass stubs that don't seem to want to budge! Any advice you can offer to getting inside the model will be much appreciated. Thanks Stu.
  6. As I used to work on sprinters, I can see Bachmann's logic when it comes to the cab lighting. On sprinters with gangways in the cabs, there are 3 cab lights, the drivers and secondman's side lights each have their own switch, and can be used at will. However, the one in the middle of the cab is constantly illuminated anytime the cab desk is shut down and not in use (as long as the saloon lights are switched on), so having a light on constantly in the rear cab is correct. But I do agree with the above, the lighting circuits could have been better designed to allow the front cab to be independently illuminated on dcc.
  7. I can't believe its been over a year since I last updated the topic! The time has flown by...... Since the last update, I have done a fair bit to the layout, although much of it has been sorting out the electrics, so whilst the underside of the layout has changed, the top hasn't that much. The main lines are now ballasted all the way round, and much of the track has been weathered, although there is more to do on this front. I started out using aerosol cans for this, and although they have their uses, they have their limitations too. Main thing I found is that they are too uncontrollable, plus longer term are an expensive way to do painting, so after a bit of research I invested in an airbrush. The track in the foreground was weathered with an aerosol, you can see the change to where it has been sprayed with the airbrush. You can't control the flow of paint from the can, so the weathering is rather on the heavy side. From this angle, the change isn't so obvious. This was the first time I have used an airbrush, I need more practice with it, but it was definitely worth the investment. I have also installed signals on the layout, using a mix of Berko and Absolute Aspects signals. I wanted the signals to be automatic as possible, so I have used Heathcote Electronics to operate the signals, with the Gaugemaster universal relays to interlock the signals with the points. I have three 3 aspect signals on each line, with an additional signal to protect the end of the loop. I still have a route indicator and a sub signal to wire, but otherwise these are complete. The signals are not yet permanently attached to the board, I'll sort this when I work on scenery in the area of the signals, as I may need to remove them temporarily for that and further weathering of the track. Only slight issue I have on the signalling front is that the DCC signal can cause interference with the send and receive wires that link the Heathcote controls together. I have one area on the layout that affects a signal on the inner loop if it is green, a passing train on DCC can cause the aspect to flick between green and yellow. It's not just the big railway that has these issues! Lastly, switches for layout and signal control so far (I think I'll only need 2 more). The top rotary switch on the right hand side switches one of my sidings between being a programming track or normal track power, the bottom one switches the inner loop to be either DCC or analogue. I have also installed a usb charger which runs off the 12v dc circuit, which has proved quite useful to have. The red switches on the left control power to the main line and goods loop when on analogue power, when running on dcc I switch both on, and the group of 3 switches are for a signal, although the red one is no longer needed as the signal is interlocked with the 3 points that it protects.
  8. Hello All, I have recently fitted these couplings, and have generally found them pretty good. I can vouch for using the Pullman couplings on Bachmann mk1's, they work well. Only niggle really is that the A and B markings are on the wrong side, they face upwards, not downwards on these. I have swapped the couplings on Bachmann 108's with close couplers, I find the gap between the cars is about the same as the Bachmann couplings, so I think these would be ok with ultra close couplings instead, but I don't have any to test. I have also fitted the couplings to Hornby mk3's with the clip coupling, but ran into a problem with my blue/grey mk3's. This isn't down to the couplings, but rather the design of the bogie. My rake of blue/grey mk3's are from the first batch of the 'long' coaches Hornby released, probably over 15 years ago. the location of the 'pip' is further back from later release coaches. The bogie on the left is a later mk3, the one on the right from when the long mk3's were first released. Using standard length Hunt couplings are too close for all but the gentlest of curves. On my layout I use a standard coupled to a close coupling on the later mk3's with no problems, using standard length couplers on the early mk3's are extremely close, and cannot negotiate the curves on my layout without the corridor connectors fouling each other and derailing. Anyone know where to buy new bogies that match the one on the left in the picture from? Thanks.
  9. The driving cars don't have compressors. If they did, then running a 2 car would be feasible, although voyagers are short enough as it is!
  10. Having spoke to Heathcote Electronics, they suggested a few things, Interference issues now sorted. All it was, was that one of the receive to send wires linking the Heathcote boards together had dropped down, and was resting on a cable I use to carry the dcc bus. Moving the wires apart solved the problem.
  11. Not yet. Thought I'd see if anyone here had experience of this first.
  12. Hello, I have fitted some signals to my layout. I have 3 three aspect signals, controlled by Heathcote Electronics IRDASC-4's, powered by 12v DC. My trains are controlled with DCC. I seem to have some kind if interference issue between the DCC, and one of the 3 signals, but the level of interference seems to vary according to the model and type of chip fitted. Cheaper chips like the Bachmann ones seem to affect it more than chips from Lenz or Zimo, but even with better chips fitted, Hornby models seem to have the worst effect on the signal. It mostly affects the signal when it goes green, with a train running, the green aspect will keep changing between green and yellow, certain models when the green aspect lights up it will then change to yellow and remain at that. If I stop the train, the signal will go green, and then go yellow if I start running the train. I have also noticed that with a train stopped and the signal green, if I switch on F3 for example, the signal will change to red, switch F3 off, and it will go green again! I have swapped the IRDASC-4 for another one, same results, and also changed the signal, and still had the same results. The other two signals are not affected, the aspects change in sequence correctly, and the affected one is fine when red or yellow. I have checked the wiring between the signals, and all seems fine. Has anyone else experienced something similar, or have any suggestions for a fix? Thanks, Stuart.
  13. It's not a laugh, it's down to signal sighting. Units with gangway's in the front end have a limited view, compared with one's that don't. Because of that, speed is restricted on these in some locations so that the minimum sighting time for signalling can be achieved.
  14. That is not true, PTS is a requirement for any safety critical staff whose duties may require them to go onto the track, including Drivers. Certainly in my company, PTS is a part of the SMS in it's own right, it is not blended in with any other part of a driver's CMS.
  15. Hello, I also sent 1 car of the model back but have not heard anything since, despite sending a few emails. I'm not bothered if it takes a while to sort, but would like confirmation that it's with Charlie.
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