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  • Location
    Nr Salisbury
  • Interests
    4mm; LMR early 60s; Green diesels; DCC sound; architectural modelling; weathering.
    Also a keen artist (trains, ships, planes, landscape, portraiture).

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aac's Achievements



  1. Good question, but no idea. Any increase in gauge requires an increase in minimum radius on curves, but at that scale it must be negligible. aac
  2. Sorry about the link taking you somewhere unintended. Google for Vierheim Industrie. It's Gauge 1 but you will see the idea with some photos and video. Sorry - yes Palmetto Spur. Again, just simpler inspiration from which you can expand your own ideas. aac
  3. Have a think about adapting something along these lines: https://www.google.com/search?q=vierheim+industrie&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB874GB874&oq=&aqs=chrome.0.69i59i450l8.712316j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 and also look up "Palmetto Springs" to see how you can adapt the concept used on that layout. If you want additional track running around the house, ensure it is on a clean surface (boards of its own) or your locos will pick up all sorts of dust and other nasties in their mechanisms. aac
  4. The photo of the shed with the red tractor has the making of a great micro. Cut off the right had side at the left hand end of the cattle trailer and you have a perfect layout view to a two track shed on an embankment, while the shed by the tractor can be de-roofed and become coal drops. Tree view-blocker on the left, yard office by the trailer. Inglenook in the making. Just a thought... aac
  5. Thanks for the replies about oil drum colours. I also work on the basis of copying what is seen in photos as web searches don't seem to get me very far with regard to whether it is the manufacturer's colours or a code for the drums' contents. When you think how familiar we are these days with colour coding fuel nozzles at garages, it's interesting to imagine the potential problems with the various drums on the railways! Cheers aac
  6. I like the refuel point. A guide to oil drum colour schemes would be useful please. aac
  7. Here's an even more basic version spotted from a passing train at Yeovil in October 2016. Two pieces of rail per side, paint slapped on the wall. Sorry it's poor quality, but taken in a rush when I noticed it! aac
  8. Beware of heat rising vertically from your heater under the edge of the board above. aac
  9. Sorry - the link below failed to send earlier, so trying again now. It is a terminus and uses the plan in your first post.
  10. Here's the first plan in your post in 7mm as modelled on Oldham King Street. I remember it gave pleasure to many viewers at the NEC a few years ago. aac
  11. Happy times! Keep the thread going. Very nice. aac
  12. Yes, one blade should be front dead centre. (I'd been flying for 17 years by '93, left in 2007 and still miss my army-issue e-type - the most lovely piece of kit from which to view this good earth!) Keep up the good work. aac
  13. Sorry to see Treble Three out for the count. I last flew her on 8 Oct 93 and she behaved very well! Nice vignette to add to your layout. The rear blade needs to be moved before residual engine heat melts it. Enjoying the thread. aac
  14. Is your board braced in any way? If not, it will bend out of true very quickly if you stand it on end or lean it against a wall, etc. aac
  15. I would use MS Paint, a standard, easy to use facility on your PC. You could reproduce this photo above and be sticking it or chosen portions of it onto a plasticard backing in a couple of minutes. Move the captured image (via CTRL+PRINT SCREEN) through the MS Paint programme into a blank WORD document, Print as large or small as you need (If you go to VIEW on the top of WORD toolbar and select GRIDLINES, these will show on the image but not appear on it when you print. This will allow you to size it for scale by dragging the corner of the image on the WORD doc. I find one grid square equal to about 9 scale inches in 4mm scale, so you can play around and adjust for any scale). I then print whatever is required, and cut it out, using printer paper, not photo paper, to keep it matt. I then brush liquid poly onto the back of the printed image and it can dry if it chooses to. Then lay it on plasticard and re-soak the image with liquidpoly. This goes through the paper and sticks it onto plasticard. If not fully fixed, give it a minute and the add more liquidpoly. BE WARY - ENSURE GOOD VENTILATION. You will now have the brickwork you had in the photo fixed to plasticard which you can trim as necessary. Align another print-out of the wall and by joining print-outs you can make it as long or as high as you need. I copy photos of signs, make my own signs in Powerpoint and copy those across, and lift bits of useful photos I find or took myself. Once you get used to MS Paint and the transfer to WORD, it is very quick and easy. You would get about 18 scale feet width of brickwork from the above photo. aac
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