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lyneux

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  1. Jo, the outers are £10 more than the inners so it's more a question of: how many inners can I get away with before it's no longer prototypical. At the moment, I'm running rakes of 10-12 wagons on Whatley so I'll probably just settle for a single pair of outers. I've got a couple of the Intercity Models outers to use too. Guy
  2. Prompted by Gary's post, I went on to the Rails site. Do we know which version of the livery these will be in in the initial release? If more than one, then which Dapol stock code corresponds to which livery? EDIT: just found this on the Digest site: BatchPartInner/Running NumberOuterNumberLivery 20184F-050-001Outer19303Yeoman EARLY 20184F-050-002Outer19311Yeoman EARLY 20184F-050-003Outer19306Yeoman LATE 20184F-050-004Outer19313Yeoman LATE 20184F-050-101Inner19335Yeoman EARLY 20184F-050-102Inner19337Yeoman EARLY 20184F-050-103Inner19349Yeoman EARLY 20184F-050-104Inner19361Yeoman LATE 20184F-050-105Inner19370Yeoman LATE 20184F-050-106Inner19398Yeoman LATE EDIT2: I was also trying to work out the ratio of outer:inner wagons. It's 1:4. There were 100 built, 20 outers (19300-319) and 80 inners (19320-399). So for a ten wagon rake, it would make sense to buy two outers and 8 inners. Guy
  3. If you are after variety and something to mix with your Accurascale PTAs, ARC had 16 PXAs built that ran with the PTAs. Same same but different! https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/arcaggregatebox PR27001 to PR27016. They ran on a mixture of Schlieren and Axle Motion bogies. I've made a few for Whatley and am working on doing some more based around my own kit using the Silouette Cameo cutter and styrene. Will have to write it up... Guy
  4. Hi Fran, They look very nice. I'm excited to be on the order book for these! Regarding the paint 'tweaks', can you confirm which colours you will be tweaking? Is it the main mustard colour? Having spent a lot of time photographing this shade I can understand that it looks quite different in different photos (it's not very tolerant of the colour casts on photographic film from the period). Also, the under frame grey looks a tad dark too (when compared to the grey of the ARC lettering for example). Could be a trick of the light though since that area is more in shadow in the photos? A couple of details that people might want to add (aftermarket) are the buffer locking collars and knuckle coupling pole on the outer wagon buffered end. They were often missing from the wagons though so no problem not having them. I never got round to adding these to my ones either! Cheers, Guy
  5. They look absolutely fantastic Fran! Well done to everyone involved in bringing these to fruition. I can't wait to see the ARC ones. Guy
  6. Nick, Just found this thread. Awesome work on the JHAs (even if they are the wrong colour.... haha!). They look really good. I didn't even realise that they were 2mm at first! My LTF-25s printed ok on the Photon but not as good as FUD. I've since tinkered with the settings and can probably do a better print so I might have another go at these. Not sure they would scale to 2mm though (otherwise I'd offer to have a go for you). I've just got a Silouette Cameo cutter and am back in the saddle with my aggregate wagons again. Guy
  7. I have the same problem. Trial and error shows that it depends on the units that the software that is generating the file uses as well as the units that SS is set to. I set Inkscape and SS to both use mm and select mm when exporting the DXF. Despite this, I am still finding my drawing about 20% under scale in SS. Grrrr!
  8. Mike, that's a very helpful write-up, thank you! Having eyed these up for months, I finally bought a few of these to run on Oldshaw and they look great straight out of the box. That said, trying to get the wheelset out, pull wheels out to EM and then re-insert has proved a total pig. Ok, there is just about enough room to pull the supplied wheels to the correct back-to-back and re-insert them but you can't do this without the top of the wheelset fouling the sprue joining the brake gear together (as Mike has stated). So the brake gear has to come out. So, where to hold the wagon to get the wheels out? There is so much fine detail all over it, it's really hard to grasp without breaking something off. I hadn't even finished removing the brake gear from one wheelset on the first wagon and I had already managed to break (and lose!) one of the small hand wheels at the end of the tarp sheet. I guess I'll be replacing this with one of Colin Craig's etches as half of it snapped off onto the floor somewhere never to be seen again. The other bits that seemed to ping off are the small cleats at the corners of the hood. Fortunately I managed to find where this pinged off to, so I have it saved ready to re-attach after re-wheeling is complete. My experience of the glue holding in the brake gear was totally different. It was glued fast and no amount of coercion with a knife blade would get the bond to break. So next step, try to cut through the glue with a scalpel. This required quite a bit of force so I was worried that the blade would slip and either slice through some of that nice fine detail or worse, my finger. There is very little space to get a blade in at the correct angle due to the wire staples forming the brake gear. I gave up on this and I ended up stroking the sharp tip of a new scalpel blade 15-20 times across each joint (there are two per brake assembly) before I finally managed to free them. The same was true of trying to remove the wire rigging from the brakes to allow the blocks to be removed. Glued tight. Needed two sets of pliers and a deep breath to pull the wire end out of the block. So, after an hour of swearing I finally have one wheelset and associated brake gear removed. I haven't even started on the next one! The W irons are so strong that you really need a lot of force just to get the wheelset in and out. They seem to be made of the strongest and stiffest plastic known to man! I'm fairly new to EM but I've converted something like 30 different vehicles already. This could have been so much easier... Guy
  9. lyneux

    Class 59 in 00

    ADB968008, since we seem to be re-visiting page 11 of the thread all over again, I'll post a link to my photo of (left to right) my re-sprayed 59 (Phoenix colours) against 'stock' Lima and Hornby: Sorry, but the yellow on the Hornby is nothing like the ARC mustard in the photos you posted above. I think Lima were closer than Hornby to 'correct'. Also, note that Dapol seem to have painted their decorated samples with different grey on the roof than the sides of the cab (quite apparent from your photo). It'd be good to see some decorated samples from Dapol that are different from the ones they showed back in November 2018. Guy
  10. It's an Anycubic Photon. The point of printing upright (or upside down in fact) is so that they don't need supports. If I printed the branches horizontal to the print bed then I'd have lots of supports to tidy up and remove. Print time isn't a massive issue as I'm only printing with 0.5mm layer thickness at the moment. But I agree, I think I will need to print several branches at a time and have them attach to the model. The software is great fun to use and doesn't take long to assemble a very authentic looking tree armature. I'm only beginning to understand all of the settings by playing with it. You can vary most parameters that govern the shape of the tree. Here's a bigger one next to the first one that I did (but still only about a quarter of the size that it needs to be). It'll be interesting to see how a bit of paint, postiche hair and 'leaves' improves the look. Guy
  11. Here is the model that I printed it from. So it's clear that quite a few branches haven't printed properly, but this almost doesn't matter. Also the branches are incredibly fine at their tips, a fraction of a mm.
  12. First very small-scale results are very promising! This would be something like a rose bush in 4mm. In principle, the technique works. For trees with large horizontal lower branches, I will make a split, detach the branches and print these vertically to be later re-combined. I feel the need to do something bigger now I know it works without additional supports. Guy
  13. The aim is to print without supports but this will require the angles to be correct (i.e. the branches all pointing more or less at 45-90 degrees upwards).
  14. Probably a heap of sludge in the bottom of the vat, but it feels worth a try! I'm going to try something more like the size of a shrub to start with so that I don't have to wait for ages to see if it is viable. Guy
  15. Think of the amount of time it takes to make a really good tree armature by the time-honoured technique of twisting strands of wire together and covering in modelling clay. Now think about how quickly this could be accomplished using 3D printing and algorithms. I've been playing around with Blender and a plugin called 'modular tree' to create tree armatures for 3D printing. They look quite lifelike and are nice and random. The attached screenshot was the result of 5 minutes of playing with the package. I was able to create a manifold mesh by closing up the 'hole' at the bottom of the trunk. There are tons of parameters that you can play with. To get an idea of what this package is capable of have a look at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQx0eh8z-iM I'm going to set the printer off in a moment and see how I get on. Watch this space....! Guy
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