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Bloodnok

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    major_bloodnok

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  1. Truth is sometimes stranger than fiction...
  2. That's why you do it to the bits of the front that don't get quite so hot: https://web.archive.org/web/20161022060012/http://fictitiousliveries.co.uk/photo.php?S_WC_Sthn.jpg https://web.archive.org/web/20161022061046/http://fictitiousliveries.co.uk/photo.php?S_9F_brb.jpg https://web.archive.org/web/20161022055617/http://fictitiousliveries.co.uk/photo.php?S_9F_rfg.jpg
  3. IIRC this rule came about as a result of the Polmont accident in 1984 where a DBSO ran over a cow. Prior to that there doesn't seem to have been an issue with passengers in a leading trailer at speed -- look at the APT-P, for example.
  4. Now I want to set that up articulated on a tri-bo chassis in the way older Italian electrics were set up. Not sure why, but for some reason it appeals...
  5. Your google-fu is obviously better than mine. I couldn't find anything for either of them. The 97080 ran slowly on a single AA battery. By the time I got to three AA batteries, it was running at what I thought was quite some speed. From this I concluded it could well be a 6v motor. The 97080 is now in a Lima 73, using a Scalextric pinion gear, a DCC Concepts 8-pin harness, and a spare blanking plug from another loco. I used the original screws from the CD drive straight into the original Lima plastic. It seems to work fine on DC so far at lower settings. The test track is only 6ft long, so it's not like I'm winding the controller out too far. The eventual plan is to chip it rather than running it on DC.
  6. This Lima class 73 has received a (believed 6v) motor salvaged from a CD drive, a Scalextric drive pinion, and a DCC Concepts 8 pin socket harness. Plus a drive gear with 70% more teeth which means the rear axle is actually driven now. It's a vastly different beast now. It picks up immediately, and runs much more quietly. This is despite the fact I still have work to do on it -- it could use a full set of pickups on the trailing bogie for a start, and it's still rolling on the original Lima wheels, too.
  7. My Hornby Networker came to me rather broken. I fixed it up with some needed spare parts, but it never really worked properly, needing continual assistance to get to the other end of my workbench, let alone running on an actual layout. I gather that's not unique to mine -- they have a reputation. Mine might be a particularly bad example, or it might be typical. The entire unit is a high-friction mess, with every single axle having both pickups and a bad quality sleeve bearing on the axle. Then the drive itself is some awful open frame motor driving a single axle. I was originally planning to re-work this using Black Beetle components. It made a lot of sense back when I was living in Australia. Now you can't get them any more -- nor apparently any of their competitors. So ... I found an alternative solution in the form of the Hornby Javelin, which matches the wheelbase and diameter close enough, and for which spares are readily available from the usual suspects. (Although I found buying entire bogies cheaper than axles for some reason. YMMV). I started by looking at the first problem (rolling resistance) first. Careful application of a 3mm drill bit to the sideframes allowed Javelin trailing axles to fit into the Networker bogie sideframes. This gives a better wheel profile running in a reasonable approximation of pinpoint bearings: No, your DCC Concepts Axle Reamer won't help you -- the Javelin axles are shorter than the normal length, and the centre of the bogie kinda gets in the way of the DCC Concepts tools, too. You'd need to cut the centre of the bogie away to get the tool in, and yet that part is both structural and also vital in terms of holding the bogie into the chassis. If you want to re-fit the weight in the centre of the bogie (I haven't done this yet) you'll need to clearance the axle slot -- otherwise you reproduce the same problem. My trailing car now rolls reasonably freely. Not great (my precision drilling isn't perfect), but a hell of a lot better than it was before. The Javelin motor bogie will also fit. It's a bit taller, so the cosmetic seating would need modification above it, but it should still sit just below the windowline, not intruding into the body too badly. The main question is how to retain it in the chassis. Option A would be to clearance the inside of the chassis to allow easier rotation, and construct something to use the original javelin pivot (on top of the motor bogie). Option B would be to transfer all the relevant clips and supports from the original bogie frame to the new one. I haven't decided which option I should look at yet. I do have plenty of spare sideframes should I end up ruining one or two in testing this out...
  8. I've just salvaged a couple of these motors out of an old CD drive. How do I identify what voltage they should run at, and whether or not they are useful for remotoring old locomotives?
  9. Those are actually Mk2 derived, not Mk3 derived.
  10. Unfortunately, you've got one more container to change. That 9ft6 high cube container doesn't work on a standard flat in the 1980s -- it would have needed a special low floor wagon back then. It's not until relatively recently that routes have been cleared for high cube containers on standard height flats.
  11. These coaches are far from perfect, but they are still useful starting points. The tumblehome isn't as good as it could be, either... Will I be replacing the buffers and bufferbeam? Not yet. I'm also not going to re-work the gangways yet, as this forms the stock way of attaching the body to the chassis. When I do work on these aspects I'll want to re-do how that works to something that's easier to work with. Also, modifying something that should be uniform across a rake on a few coaches will make just these coaches stand out from the rest of the rake. I really want to do things like that all at once across the lot, including the otherwise unmodified coaches. I'd rather they all look uniform in the ways they should look uniform -- that way one or two won't stand out from the rest.
  12. Years ago I picked up a load of Airfix Mk2D coaches on the cheap. Being cheap, most of them were Brake Second Opens, and most of the rest were First Opens. Many of them were also in poor condition. One turned out to have broken/missing bogies and gangways. There's a distinct lack of stepboards, buffers, and so on. There are also shortcomings in the original Airfix representation -- such as the FO having 2+2 seating, but at the correct 7-bay pitch. It should be 2+1 for a proper FO... This makes them ideal conversion material. This one is my first attempt. It's an early Mk2E TSO, created from the non-brake end of two BSOs. The exterior, the glazing, and the interior have all received the cut'n'shut treatment, creating a proper 8-bay 2+2 seating layout. The roof and the bodysides have been cut at two different locations. Glazing is only in temporarily installed -- it'll need to come out again when this finds it's way to a paint shop. This is my second attempt. It's a Mk2D FK. It's interior has been created by cutting and shutting two Hornby Mk2 BFK interiors. The paint isn't great on this example, so I may elect to repaint it too. It'll certainly need a new number. Two further coaches are on the workbench. I have an FO shell in a particularly poor state of disrepair, which has been put down next to one of the brake ends of the BSO. This should be the correct pieces to make a BFK, although I've lost the cut diagram I used to have bookmarked many years ago. I also have two spare FO interiors, and I'm cutting out and repositioning individual seats. If I can separate enough to form an airline section in the centre, it should make a convincing 58 seat Ex-FO declassified TSO.
  13. And there's a group of people out there mad enough to try to build a new one. https://prrt1steamlocomotivetrust.org/ They are also mad enough to state they want to have a crack at the record ... so one day we might actually know what these machines will do.
  14. You won't see it in the road. You would see it in the angle the bus sits at. I'm sure it could be convincingly faked much more locally to the bus than rebuilding the entire road surface...
  15. There's a marginal benefit in an elongated contact patch -- having larger wheels can result in a slightly more sure-footed loco. It's not a particularly big difference though -- other factors (the weight of the wheels themselves) will be more significant.
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