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Dr Al

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  1. Are any still available? Might be interested in a few if they are. Best, Alan
  2. Cracked cylinder blocks are very common on A1, A2s due to bad packing design that means the cylinders hold the loco in the packing and therefore take all the stress of drops, bad handling etc in the post. May be similar for the Duchess, or you just may have got unlucky - main thing is that they have resolved the issues. Cheers, Alan
  3. No, no, no. It's the front bogie wheels that are clearly out from the photo. Do not touch the drivers, they are highly unlikely to be out, and you risk messing up things like quartering and valve gear (crossheads are cast, so particularly delicate - I've seen a clutch of Farish models with broken valve gear in this area, likely due to mishandling). I would strongly recommend firstly removing the front bogie (just one screw) and you'll probably find it no longer derails, therefore confirming it as the cause. Second, adjust that front wheel back to back, or if too afraid, unclip the
  4. No, the Farish Duchess does not have this. Cheers, Alan
  5. I wouldn't be afraid of moving the bogie wheel - it's just a push fit onto the axle. Cheers, Alan
  6. Did you fix the back to back on that front wheelset? As I say it looked narrow, so that's likely wrong. Cheers, Alan
  7. Problem looks to be the sharp curve entering to the point - looks like the cylinders may be clashing with the bogie, as it's when you push onto the curve that that happens. I suspect therefore you've hit the R1/R2 problem, and it may be Bachmann had the cylinders off to repair and reseated them a fraction differently so they are now catching. Also, from your previous picture, the BTB on front wheels looks far too narrow - this may not be helping, giving less lateral movement that it should have. I'd fix this first. Cheers, Alan
  8. Unfortunately while much less common than in the past, it's still a failure that hasn't been totally eliminated. Open out the holes when fitting new so the stress on the fit is less using a taper broach. Generally these seem over-tight and over stressed, and there seems a correlation between the split position and bubbles in the moulding (which will clearly weaken it). Seems very empirically common. I've never had any re-splitting of gears when care is exercised on refitting them by opening out the holes. Fortunately, it seems Bachmann are now fitting all new models wit
  9. While far less common (not that it's very common on Farish now either) this is ultimately untrue - I've seen several Dapol 73s and 66s with split gears. Farish have quietly moved to white nylon gearing in recent times - no comment or shouting about it, but I suspect this is the final act in ending the remaining split gear occurrences. All my most recent Farish diesels have white gears - I'd presume the 31s are the same. Cheers, Alan
  10. Very interesting, thanks Andy for the pointer. Looks a much lower profile drive to get the DCC gubbins in, so I can well believe it to be a smaller diameter coreless motor. Interesting, one wonders if the class 14 will get the same motor change also. Cheers, Alan
  11. Interesting - if anyone is fitting DCC or suchlike and has a moment to take a chassis exposed picture, that'd be very interesting to see what this generation of chassis look like. Thanks, Alan
  12. Out of interest, how does this model look under the shell? I've read some comments in places implying it has a coreless motor now, which I wonder if are really true, as that'd have been a bigger change than just adding the sound gubbins I'd have thought. Cheers, Alan
  13. Only once new traction tyres were fitted Tim! Cheers, Alan
  14. To add to Tony's request for a year sum up - here's mine, all N gauge for something different. I'd say though that the year's not complete for me yet! With work winding down I'm hoping to knock off a few more projects before the year end! These have been completed so far though - the are a mix of kit, scratch and RTR upgrades (both basic and complex), which is largely the way for N Gauge: Caledonian 0-4-4T in BR black (Dapol M7 chassis, scratchbuilt body in brass (partly pre-built by a previous owner)) 55260_1 by Dr Al 60103, on Flickr B4 in BR
  15. Public thanks to Paul (bigP), who generously sent me some of these. After 1/2 an hour fiddling all the points have been fully restored to original, and working (!) condition. Many thanks, Alan
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