Marcyg

Layout is slowly progressing. I’ve encountered an issue with the dcc supply. I’ll put a post up in the relevant section in the coming days, but any help would be welcome.

No one seems to have mentioned Shinohara points, which I believe are now made by Walthers. I didnt like the short look of even the longest Peco point, and I still use code 100, so these fit perfectly. They are number 8 turnouts. I have the older non DCC friendly ones, so Ive had to make a fair few modifications to them, but they look very good. The new ones are DCC friendly and from the pictures I've seen are constructed in a similar way to the Pecos

The fiddle yard changed a bit too

Long time since I did an update. A little boy came along and made me rather busy! Silent Hill has undergone some changes in the mean time though

OHLE locos didn't need flashes until later on, maybe even privatisation (my interest stops at 1992 so i'm not sure on the exact date). They had to have the orange cantrail stripe though

It’s boxed in yes. I’ll get a photo up tomorrow

My Electra style HST power car. Videos of this have been doing the rounds on Twitter for a while. Shes just been upgraded with bogies and central motor from a full fat Hornby HST

I painted a class 90 in experimental Intercity Large Logo a few years back. Chose number 6 as that was the 87 that actually did recieve it

Right, I dont have any pictures so far, but I'll write a description of how I got on. First impressions are, its small, a lot smaller than I expected due to it being about to put out its own WiFi signal. On the face of the board, are 3 switches. These switches in various combinations give the adaptor its cab address. I plugged in both my hand held throttles during set up so I could read their addresses and not double up. The instruction manual has a table in it, showing which switches, in which postion, give each cab address. Its very, very easy to set up. You'll need an RJ12 cable, which is n

The board is actually removable, the only board that is. It sit over the roof of a stairwell, hence the size. I made it removable so I could access the point motors if needed, so will probably help with strengthening. I do have a couple of small legs in the middle, but they rest on a plasterboard surface, so I doubt that will help the cause

Hi all, parts of my layout have started to sag a little. Its built out of soft wood frames and chipboard (I know, I know). The board in particular is 8ft x 3.5ft, it has to be that big due to its position. Has anyone successfully straightened up a chip board layout? The board itself is in excellent condition. I thought maybe making a plywood frame with lots of bracing to fit inside the frame that's already there? Stripping the layout and rebuilding isn't an option due to cost and that I've got the track work exactly how I want it after 3 years of trying! Any suggestions would be greatly apprec

Its now available from CoastalDCC. I'll be purchasing one very soon. Could do a review if anyone is interested?

Hi all, I'm modelling the Fisons weed killer train as it was around 1990 with the 4 Mk1s in green livery. Anyone know the shade of green used? Thanks

All my other locos are fine. My first 90, an RfD one did the same thing, but 3 locos later I got a good one that’s absolutely perfect, an amazing machine, so I know it’s not my system playing about

I only have DC on a 9v Lego controller. The last one that did this got very hot even under dc control. These don’t have something silly like transit screws that need to be taken out?