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Jeff Smith

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  • Location
    20 miles north of Tampa, FL, USA
  • Interests
    Model railways, art

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  1. Correct, attempting to uncouple on a curve often results in both trip pins going the same way rather than one each way to uncouple properly. For effective uncoupling the magnets need to be quite powerful. However these then can attract steel wheels, axles or ballast weights in wagons. This can give jerky motion across the magnet and may self-uncouple. Modern US HO and On30 rolling stock has non-magnetic wheels and axles for just this reason. Hornby wagon wheels (sold as spares) are non-magnetic, but the axles are. I have replaced these with brass pin-point axles for my On30 a
  2. My preferred acrylic paint for general use is Testors Acryl, it is resistant to IPA which is the main constituent of a weathering paint kit I have. Vallejo tends to be attacked by IPA and does not pass my thumbnail scratch test.
  3. You should test it by mixing a sample to see if it mixes properly and then let it dry. Years ago I tried to blend acrylic paint from two different manufactures (can't remember which) and they did not mix. Manufacturers change formulas and usually rename over the years. If all else fails try distilled or purified water.
  4. Dollar Store (Pound Shop) bulk emory boards. Safety flux used for stained glass lead soldering. Cheap from craft shops and friendly to use.
  5. Have sent you a PM with Branchlines catalogue.
  6. From pictures it seems a lot of people, myself included, work on green cutting mats. These are a few mm thick, are very durable and come in a variety of sizes. Mine I think came from a sewing/embroidery shop. They usually have mm or inch grids which can be useful.
  7. My immediate thought and suggestion would be to attach at least 4" ( preferably 6" ) sides and ends below track level. 6mm (1/4" ) would be sufficient, screwed and glued and with corners joined with 25mm square the same as you used already. This will add real stiffness to the length and width and won't add much weight. You could also add full depth pieces onto the cross braces with cut outs for wiring. This would give plenty of room for point motors etc. On the scenic boards you can profile the sides and ends for above track-level scenery.
  8. This really is a splendid layout and is probably timeless enough to run steam as well.
  9. Have you given any thought as to how you will be supporting the baseboards? Modular layouts often feature common size baseboards for storage and transportation, this may not be something you need to consider but weight may be something you do want to minimise so I would recommend open top construction with max 4' length, preferably 3'.
  10. It is amazing to me that lines like this are not just straight.... The S curve was presumably prompted by the terrain and was cheaper to build than an embankment.
  11. RTR does seem to dominate this thread but there are some pretty old kits out there that are still being supplied, albeit with more recent chassis. The Gem North London 0-6-0 tank with Branchlines chassis makes up to an excellent model. Similarly the three Peco O-16.5 locos with again Branchlines chassis are still great.
  12. Try Narrow Planet https://shop.narrowplanet.co.uk you will probably need some artwork.
  13. Just discovered that the punched holes in the K's frames are actually too big for standard top hat bearings so I'll be using the K's ones - I'll have to disassemble the wheels and axles to get them off though.
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