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LNERJP

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Everything posted by LNERJP

  1. Thanks, that's Just what I needed to know.
  2. Hi Does anyone know the power output from a MK1 Coach Dynamo, I'm rewiring a support coach and want to know if it's got enough oomph to support a good size invertor. JP
  3. Thought I'd checked NB, then found this ....... And while thinking to myself "that looks nothing like the one at Mallaig" I realised it is indeed Mallaig, somtimes you cannot see the wood for the trees and need someone to point out the obvious. JP
  4. Hi all Trying to establish which railway company would make buffer stops like this, it's not the standard lightweight BR/LMS one so what type is it. And if anyone want's to know it's at Mallaig.
  5. LNERJP

    N gauge BBA

    In Model Rail this month there is a review of the OO gauge BBA and at the end of the article it states that an N gauge version is in development, I thought that Cavalex had costed out N gauge models and said they weren't viable. Can anyone comment as to what is the case, should I get my hopes up? JP
  6. OK. Thanks Andy, that doesn't actually look that bad, definitely better than the Rails picture. Think I should be able to work with that. Cheers JP
  7. From my research and interest Tom corridor stock was used on the West Highland line alongside open stock right up until sprinterisation. Although as you rightly state open stock was becoming a lot more common than corridor. There are some formations here https://www.hattons.co.uk/newsdetail.aspx?id=465 and one of them is from the West Highland in June 1988, which is my chosen period, the next thing I need to research is bogies as I would have thought by that time nearly all MK1's would have had Commonwealth or B4 bogies. Then I start to think about the fact that Farish don't do any MK1's with the raised window frame, or maybe I just need to realise life's to short. Cheers JP
  8. Hi Has anyone purchased any of the weathered ScotRail MK1's, I'd like to know your opinion of the weathering please? Some pictures on retailers site's look ok and others like on "Rails of" it looks overdone. I generally avoid factory weathered models preferring to individually weather my models myself as a rake of these would just look to uniform, however maybe I could slip on or two in. Cheers JP
  9. Hi Andy I've seen your posts on your layout and you are certainly doing the location justice, and I did intend to get in touch once my layout became more than just a plan. Period will be 1986-88 ish. Cheers JP
  10. Hi Andy Guess I should Doing it in 2mm means I can get it to scale, I need a map to work out the size and shape of my baseboards and then when I have a plan it will be time for a thread. JP
  11. That's very helpful thank you. JP
  12. I'm looking for a large scale map/Arial photograph of Mallaig for a 2mm scale project and all the usual sources (National Library of Scotland) have drawn a blank. I know the trackplan well and have plenty of photographs but would like to get the curvature of the platform spot on. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Cheers JP
  13. Hi I have no experience of the model in question, but if you can remove the brass pick-ups and chemically blacken them this does not effect electrical conductivity. You want to use something like this if you have no experience of chemical blackening.https://www.eileensemporium.com/materials-for-modellers/category/blackening-fluids Cheers JP
  14. Anyone have an up to date email or phone number, I'm after some nameplates and the email address on his website comes back as not found, and in these current times you can't catch him at a exhibition. Please PM me if not wanting to put it on the forum. Cheers JP
  15. So far I've got this far in collecting the data Number Builder Roof Cant Rail Grills 37501 VF Riveted 9 37502 RSH Riveted 37503 VF Riveted 37504 VF Riveted 37505 VF Riveted 37506 VF Riveted 37507 VF Riveted 37508 RSH Riveted 37509 RSH Riveted 37510 VF Welded 37511 VF Welded 6 37512 VF Riveted 37513 VF Riveted 37514 VF Welded 37515 VF Riveted 37516 RSH Riveted 37517 VF Riveted 37518 RSH Riveted 37519 VF Riveted 37520 VF Riveted 5 37521 VF Welded I'll continue to scower the internet for pictures, if anyone spots any errors please speak up. JP
  16. That would have been perfect except all the Thornaby ones where converted from split headcode 37's. JP
  17. Hi I'm interested in modelling the Thornaby 37/5's in the 80's and realize they are absolute minefield of detail differences. I know the riveted roof's went from 37001 to 37095 + 37119 but I am struggling with the different Cantrail grill styles anyone have a definitive list? What's the main differences between a VF and a RSH built loco? Cheers JP
  18. Thank you all for your replies, I'm now trying to weigh up the pros and cons of building a layout this way. Pros Biggest benefit I can see is saving on weight. Easier to have a sculpted landscape . Cons As Joseph mentioned, not quite so easy to install point motors and wiring. Not quite as cheap as I though if Kingspan is not suitable. Anything I'm missing? JP
  19. I've heard of modelers using Kingspan (other manufactures of insulation board are available) to make their baseboards, but I have never seen it described or pictured. So in the interest of making a portable exhibition layout the following questions spring to mind..... I presume you then glue plywood to the side to make the "box", what glue would you use? How do you join baseboards? How do you attach legs? How strong is the resultant construction, will it take O gauge loco's OK? Cheers JP
  20. Well today I delved into my black hole and found my starter kit, and after 1.5 hours I ended up with this. Which I'm really happy with, it sits perfectly flat on a piece of glass and rolls really well. I cut some holes in the sides as most of the 16t minerals left by the late 80's where used as engineers spoil wagons, my holes are a bit rough as even my smallest needle file won't fit to clean up the hole, but then the holes where petty rough in real life. My O gauge size soldering tip must be about 8mm which has made things a bit tricky and I think soldering the strengthening ribs on the solebar is beyond me I might have to resort to glue at that point. Would I be right in assuming that this is a Stephen Harris kit? If it is I would like to try some more, I know it's only £20 to join the group, but I am already a member of 6 other groups/societies and if you add up the £20 here and £20 there it does start to add up, might have to drop one of the others. Thank you all for your help. JP
  21. Thank you for your replies. Looks like my options are n-gauge society kits or Stephen Harris, either of which require me to join a group, which I am hesitant to do at the moment as I just want to give n-gauge/2mm a bit off a "go". I think a year or two back at a exhibition I bought one of the 2mm association taster kits for a 16 ton mineral wagon, and then put it away in the modelling cupboard/black hole, so I must have been feeling the urge to try something smaller than O gauge for a while, think I'll have to rummage in my cupboard and give that a go. Cheers JP
  22. Hi All Although not strictly 2mm (I may build them in N-gauge, but wasn't sure where else I could post question and get a good response). I normally build in O gauge, but fancy testing my eyesight in n-gauge for a bit of a change. I'm looking to build some modern wagons BAA,BBA, OTA, POA and searching on google I find there used to be kits from Chivers, but now seem to be unavailable, is that the case? Stephen Harris does some etched kits but these are to 2mm scale, how do these compare to normal N-gauge stock, is the difference that noticeable? Other options are N-gauge society kits, but I would have to join and I only want to dip a toe in at the moment. Any other suggestions for modern wagons? Cheers JP
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