Jump to content

Sandy Harper

Members
  • Content Count

    1,219
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2,579 Excellent

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Location
    Shropshire
  • Interests
    Kit Building 7mm
    The Highland Railway

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Shez, Two techniques, depending if the boiler bands require lining or not. If the livery is to be plain black or a solid colour then I prefer good quality electricians insulation tape applied before painting, although scotch magic tape is just as good. I lay it out on a sheet of glass and, with a straight edge and a sharp scalpel, cut out the width of boiler bands I need. If the bands are to be lined out then, if available, I use waterslide transfer sheet, attached directly on to a gloss painted boiler or, if a commercially produced product is not available then, as Peter says, use scotch magic tape lined out in the lining you require, again, cutting with a scalpel blade and applying to your model. Everything should then be spray varnished to seal them. If using scotch magic tape it is always a good idea to spray some up in the main body colour before applying the lining. I hope this is helpful Regards Sandy
  2. HI Grahame, The resin issues were with the cab front and the roof. Both had become distorted. They were quite delicate castings where as the boiler, smoke box and bunker were quite solidly cast and therefore less prone to distorting. Once the resin castings have been glued down they are usually quite stable. but over time is anyone's guess. Regards Sandy
  3. Warrens replacement casting arrived yesterday so I can now get the 15XX ready for painting but in the meantime I put together a Eric Underhill LNWR 'Special Tank' 0-6-0st. It appeared to have languished in its box for a number of years as the etches had started to go green and a couple of the resin castings had taken on some weird shapes! Judicious use of the hairdryer and finger tweaking eventually got them back into somewhere near the correct shape and a bit of elbow grease on the etches with a jewelers block soon got them shiny again An awful lot of glue involved in the building of his though! Merry Christmas Sandy
  4. Now back to the 15XX. All of the additional detail has been added, apart from that which will go on after painting, and the missing casting for the front tank support bracket. This item was missing from the kit and Warren doesn't think he can get a replacement casting for about 2 months so it looks like a scratch build job! Now I have the delightful task of a complete dismantle so that the painting can be done. Merry Christmas Sandy PS Just as I posted this I received an e-mail from Warren to say that he had located a casting and it was on its way to me. Excellent service.
  5. I put the 15xx to one side for a break and got on with a Brake Van conversion that a friend asked me to do for him. According to Peter Tatlow , in his book 'Carriages and Wagons of the Highland Railway', two of the Dia. 25, 6 wheel Jones Brake Vans, were built with side lookouts instead of the roof cupola. I am not aware of any photographic evidence but here is my take on what it might have looked like. The donor van was the Walsworth kit of the original van and I have added the side lookouts and the new roof. Sandy
  6. Colin, these bearings look as though they have not been finished off correctly! They should be 'top hat' shaped with a hollow bearing tube and a flange that fits against the wheel. The length of the 'bearing' part is usually suitable for etched rods but, if you are using cast rods from Laurie, the bosses may be a tad too thick for the bearings which is why the nut , when tightened, locks the rods up. If it is only a matter of a few thou then you could try filing the rear of the rod/ boss to make it thinner and give you a running clearance. If the bearing is way too short you could try contacting Slaters who can supply extra long bearings. Hope this helps Regards Sandy
  7. Michael, it was one of these things that you think 'It it'll be alright when I get some paint on it', but every time you look at it, it is staring you in the face until it gets too much and you just have to do something about it! Sandy
  8. This was the fault in the firebox casting. It was a depression in the top plate that should have been flat. I tried filing it out but it was too deep, hence the replacement. Sandy
  9. Detailing of the superstructure has commenced but the 'fault' with the firebox casting has been niggling at me every time I look at it. I tried filing it down in an attempt to flatten it out but there is not enough meat in top plate representation to allow for this so I decided this morning to do something about it. I found a scrap piece of thin brass at around .027mm thick and cut it out to fit over the 'fault' as a top cover for the f/box. I also added a representation of a few fixing bolts and the retaining bands will be added later. Regards Sandy
  10. Valve gear completed and test running successful. Cab sub assembly nearly complete and I have made the roof removable to access the inside. I also seem to have made it reversible!!!! Duh! Sandy
  11. Simon De Souza did a series of wagon scratch building articles in the old Model Railways Illustrated. If you can track down copies they will give you some useful tips. Mainly polystyrene and 4mm scale.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.