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Portchullin Tatty

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Portchullin Tatty last won the day on October 24 2010

Portchullin Tatty had the most liked content!


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    http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1345 and http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/12879-portchullin/page__gopid__125841&

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  • Location
    East Surrey
  • Interests
    P4 modelling of the Highland Section in the early 1920's and then again in the early 1970's.

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  1. Beware that you have used yellow on the perimeter (single line) and straw on the centre mouldings (straw/black/straw). But the Fox lining does work very well on the square panel MR stock like this. You can see my efforts by the same technique on my blog: https://highlandmiscellany.com/2020/01/04/lining-things-up/
  2. For those of you that are interested in these NER coaches, there has been a helpful discussion on the S4 Society forum as to the details of these coaches, Go towards the end of page 13 and the start of page 14 of this thread: https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=1345&start=300
  3. Thanks Mick, I was vaguely aware of Worsley Works roofs but unclear which ones I wanted. I deliberately made the roof of 0.25mm brass so it had some thickness both at the edges to look more prototypical but also for a bit of strength where I cut out the holes below the clerestory. However, I might give the Worsley Works ones a crack next time (fear not, I still have a few others on the shelf!) as there was a lot of work in the roof. Mark
  4. Some time back I posted about the construction of a NER autocoach that I was building for Benfieldside and subsequently what it looked like once painted by Warren Heywood. The NER generally used these in pairs, with a loco sandwiched between, although they did go out singly and even as quads. In this case, the Benfieldside team wish to operate them as a pair, as the bay to the right of the layout is conceived to receive such a train, with a NER / LNER G6 in between. This means that there was pressure to build the second from the moment I handed the first over. They have recently given me a favour, so it was high time I repaid it. It is now completed down to the final check over stage (which has indicated that I need to put the steam heating pipes on – doh!) and then it can be delivered. So I have braved the fading light this afternoon (so sorry about some of the depth of field issues) to take a few pictures. I completed a few personal upgrades to the kit in both this and the earlier autocoach. Chief of these is around the roof where I ditched the plastic roof and replaced it with rolled brass. This was formed of 0.25mm to give it a tangible depth, which makes its rolling a fair challenge. Add to this, I elected to cut out the portion below the clerestory, so that it was a clerestory! By the time I had added the gas lines and the various gas lamps and ventilators, I reckon there is around 20 hours in making the roof alone! The prototype coaches were fairly long lived and numerous. They thus collected a good number of alterations and differences over time. I took some guidance to David Addyman and tweaked the kit in respect of gas lines, foot steps, handrails, footboards and gas cylinders. If someone thinks this is wrong, please don’t tell me!! It always amuses me that the driver had to stand and peer down the line through two tiny windows. They lived in different times – could you imagine the snow-flakes tolerating this in the 21st century? These are rather beautiful coaches, but not for the feint-hearted as there is a lot of time invested in these. I am pleased I do not have to paint it!
  5. Chris Can I add myself to the list of people that has run into this problem too. I have been charged for a pre-order which apparently went to an address which was correct when I made the pre-order but is no longer current. It has come back to you but you think I should pay a second postage cost to reissue it. I did attempt to view my pre-orders both before and over the Christmas period but couldn't do either this or change my account details. I do not think it is in the least bit reasonable to pay for an issue that flows from a failing of your system to migrate data from the old version!
  6. That is looking very impressive. And a great prototype too! Can I suggest that it would be more realistic if this was the bridge where located where your present stone five arch bridge is than to one side of it? Bridges are expensive to make, so they only use them when they are necessary so they don't just appear. It would look rather grand with a stone arch either side and then with the truss in the middle. Google the Boat of Brig viaduct for a bit of inspiration (one side has several arches, the other only a single arch). However, your trainset and all that!
  7. It is probably worth going over the surface of the sets with sandpaper once it has properly cured. It will take the rather rounded tops of the SE Finecast plasticard back a bit?
  8. Hi Thomas, I am note sure why this post has gone unanswered! So let me offer a few pointers. Firstly, an inside valve gear 4-4-0 is not a bad place to start loco building, so well done for that. I was almost unaware of PDK kits, which is surprising given that i am rather fond of the D.40s so thanks for alerting me to them! Secondly, how well can you solder? I suggest that if you are not partly proficient, you spend a bit of time practising and also looking at other threads on soldering here. Things like cleanliness of the metal, a good amount (but not excessive) heat, a good flux and the right solder are all important things to get to grips with. My advice would be to use 145 degree solder throughout but to stick the white metal parts with araldite if this is your first etched kit. The chief difference in building steam locos in comparison to anything else is the need to get the chassis free running. To do this it is essential that the coupling rods exactly match each other and then exactly match the wheel base. To do this you will need a jig. At their simplest, these are little more than axles with turned ends - such as these available from the Scalefour Society (although there are other suppliers) at the more sophisticated end there is the Avonside Jig https://www.eileensemporium.com/materials-for-modellers/category/avonside-chassis-squared-jigs The key thing to do is make the coupling rods as a pair, ensuring that the holes are opened out with either a drill that is perfectly vertical (ideally in a pillar drill) or a broach that you check is vertical relative to the coupling rods. Making these as a pair is best achieved by tack soldering the two parts together with the etched holes lined as best you can (use a cocktail stick in each). The opening up that I have described should then get to be exactly the same. Once you have the coupling rods made, then mount these on the axle jigs once you have either the fixed bearings on them as well or the hornblocks if you are going for a flexible chassis. This picture grabbed from a thread by Wenlock shows this with hornblocks: Once you have secured the hornblock guides or bearing in place, the jigs can be released and the wheels installed - Markits are great for a beginner as they automatically quarter correctly and can be taken off and put back on a couple of times. Open out the bearings on the axles or coupling rods very slightly (this means a few turns on the broach, not so that they are sloppy. Take your time over this and be methodical about making sure that you are keeping these distances consistent. Chassis building is not easy, even for experienced modellers (I still get very tense when it comes to seeing if they work!) but if you have taken care and kept these distances consistent, the chassis should roll along with a finger and you should be pleased with yourself. There are loads of threads on here, the Scalefour Forum and a number of books. Iain Rice's remains a good one even if it was written prior to the creation of jigs which is why they do not get mentioned. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Locomotive-kit-Chassis-Construction-4mm/dp/1874103100/ref=asc_df_1874103100/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=430901814613&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7896416428407628308&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006977&hvtargid=pla-301998311411&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=97419295182&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=430901814613&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7896416428407628308&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006977&hvtargid=pla-301998311411 Good luck
  9. There is a detailed thread on the building of a High Level 14xx chassis on the Scalefour Forum. It also shows the detailing done to the donor model. See here: https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=90&t=6987 Paul is on RMweb, his handle is Flymo on account of his ability to mow grass when he should be riding a motorbike!
  10. It still looks very impressive! Happy new year to you.
  11. Here is another view of NER coaches from above that I have unearthed https://www.facebook.com/DavidTurnerrailway/photos/a.10151096062500631/10158565687860631
  12. Sadly, Bob died last night. It will be rare for any railway modeller or historian that is even remotely serious about their hobby not to be aware of Bob and probably have a clutch of his publications in their bookshelves (maybe like me a whole shelf full!) Bob had the interest in and access too a lot of historical information at a time when this was being actively ignored and sometimes disposed of by the 12" to the ft brigade. Based on this, he and a number of other similarly interested people went about both preserving this information and then analysing/publishing it. There are a lot of historical records that are still with us due to his and his contemporary's efforts and, certainly, we would not know what we now do about the prototype without his efforts to then tell us all about them. Bob was not, however, a researcher for researcher's sake. He fundamentally did it because he wanted to create more accurate models for himself and to inspire others to do so too. Finding that no one actually knew what the right prototype answer was, he went out and discovered it. Based on this knowledge, Bob created a number of accurate in concept as well as creation models, both in 4mm and then in 7mm. He was a founding member and first Chairman of the Scalefour Society and a founding member the ScaleSevern Society. He was also a founding member of the LMS Society and (I presume, I am less certain of this) of the Midland Railway Society. We thus all owe a big debt to Bob and his passing is a big loss.
  13. As a PS, do the RETB kits have the correct three layer panelling arrangement or are they simplified as two layers, I can't quite see in the photographs.
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