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MikeHunter

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  1. I'm having the same problem. I fitted one in the Hattons Garrett due to lack of space. It kept cutting out. I thought I had a problem with the loco, till I replaced the decoder with a Bachmann one, it now runs a treat. Had the same problem with the other Gaugemaster I fitted in Hornby 8F. Swapping the decoder cured the problem. I now have two Gaugemaster 8 pin decoders I'm probably going to have to bin, unless anyone can suggest a way they can be reprogrammed to cure the problem. Any ideas?
  2. Thanks @HattonsDave looks a very exciting project. I've just preordered an LMS rake. Wondering how long 6 wheelers kept their Midland livery in the LMS era now. Might have to invest in some Essery and Jenkinson reading.... Don't agree with the critics saying they are too generic, this is a great start to pre - grouping r-t-r coaching stock. It may also spur me on to some of those lovely Slaters kits.
  3. That's similar to my experience. I've built 2 versions of Minories so far, and have another one planned as an extension to my current layout. The only limitation I've found with the original Minories with goods sidings, is having them alongside the station makes goods shunting tricky. I prefer to reverse the sidings. i.e. goods trains run into a head shunt next to the 3 platform roads, and reverse into sidings alongside the station throat.
  4. Can't wait to see decorated samples. Looks amazing. Shame I can't justify Midland Crimson on my 1930s LMS layout! Black it will be.
  5. I'm having the opposite problem. I have a loco that seems to jump straight to full speed. I have an NCE Power Cab, and have tried resetting the decoder to factory settings, but it hasn't cured the problem. Either I'm doing something wrong with the programming, or I have a faulty decoder. As the loco is hard wired, want to triple check its not a progamming issue before changing the decoder. Its a Gaugemaster decoder. Any suggestions?
  6. Written it up, and added to the fitting guides:
  7. I did an extensive search for a fitting guide for this locomotive, and didn't find one anywhere so here is my guide: The loco in question is R2225 Princess Arthur of Connaught in LMS maroon. The loco is loco drive, but not DCC ready. Mine was bought new, but has sat unused for several years. This is how I did the installation, usual caveats apply that you need to wire it properly to avoid damage to the loco or decoder. I had an 8 pin Hornby decoder with a damaged pin, so used this, cutting off the pin mounting to reveal the wires, and cutting back the insulation on the 4 wires I would need. wrapping the others in insulation tape. Now to the loco: 1) Tested the loco on DC it was running well 2) Opened the loco body by removing the large screw underneath the chassis near the front 2) removed the metal weight which is screw attached and fits under the boiler in front of the motor. There didn't seem much room for the decoder anywhere else, much though I hate taking out weight. The third photo shows the position I used for the decoder. There is plenty of space without the weight. 3) cut and removed the wires to the tender draw bar, and removed the suppressor, couldn't easily leave this in as it was wired directly between the motor and the track pickups. 4) Cut the black wire through the chassis which goes to the motor - soldered the track end to the appropriate decoder wire, and soldered the other end from the motor to the correct decoder wire. 5) for the none insulated side, the track wire to the motor was attached to a screw on the top of the chassis in front of the motor. I removed this, and soldered the appropriate decoder to track wire in its place. 6) I then had to wire the remaining decoder to motor wire to the other side of the motor. (The red wire in picture 2, I reused one of the original wires, soldering it to the correct decoder wire). As this attaches under the motor, its much more easily done by unscrewing the motor from the chassis, soldering it on, and reassembling. 7) The loco was then ready for the programming track, and worked straight away. Job done! Then disaster, when reassembling the body, the the plastic thread in the front of the body broke, meaning that I couldn't reattach the screw. Beware, this may just be just a weakness in my particular model, or could be a weak design. As I use Kadees I then undid the bottom of the tender chassis, removed the coupling, and replaced with a Kadee of the right length. - Its exactly the correct height fortunately. There, job done (apart from the annoying screw thread damage. Probably just cost myself a new Lizzie when it comes out, but this is a very good model. The biggest weakness is the rear pony truck, not fixed like on the real locos and latest Hornby designs as on the Duchess, but as I have tight curves, its much less prone to shorting on points.
  8. Thanks for the comments. Attempt 2 went as follows: 1) removed suppressor and wires from tender pick ups 2) unscrewed the motor, and soldered the two wires from the chip replacing the previous wires. 3) removed the metal weight from the front of the chassis (inside the boiler, leaving room for the chip 4) soldered the other wires from the chip to the wires from the wheel pick ups 5) insulated all soldered joints 6) refitted the body 7) programmed 8) tested an run on layout success! I'll have to write it up properly, take some screenshots and add it to the DCC fitting guides. Duchess next, which has the same chassis.
  9. I've been DCC for a couple of years. Someone on here recommended the NCE Power Cab. I looked at several systems, but was initially attracted by the price. It is very upgradable, and is intuitive to use. I've tried a couple of other systems at exhibitions, and find the PowerCab much nicer to use. It is personal taste though, and you should definitely try several systems before deciding.
  10. I have mainly Bachmann and Hornby decoders to date. They all work fine, great performance with slow speed shunting. I have dead frog short radius points on my dockside layout and have very little trouble with 0-6-0s stalling, even without stay alive. I run 1930s LMS so Bachmann Jinties and 1Fs. I would probably go for Lenz in future. A couple of the locos are hardwired using Hornby decoders as the locos were not DCC ready. They are some of my best runners. The only drawback I've noticed with Hornby is that they can only run old style consists (maximum 2 locos), whilst the Bachmann are fine.
  11. Thanks Art, I'll bear that in mind. Scheduled to have another go at it this evening.
  12. Thanks Matthew. I've previously done a couple of Bachmann Jinties without problem. Suspect there is a rogue wire somewhere still connecting to the motor.
  13. Having failed to find a guide for this loco, I started hard wiring it this evening. Thought the best place for the decoder would be removing the weight in front of the motor. Got it fully wired, put it on the track to test, and it shorts. Seems the problem is the way the suppressor and wires from the tender pick ups reach the motor is the problem. They all seem a bit of a mess. Does anyone know whether I just need to remove the lot? Or is there a work around to keep them?
  14. I was faced with this decision about 4 years ago, when I bought a DCC wired layout off eBay. The options were convert the layout to analogue or my stock to DCC. I had quite a large collection (though not 200 locos). Following advice on RM Web I took the plunge and went DCC, using the NCE Power Cab. Its so much more rewarding to operate than DC, that I've never looked back. It isn't a cheap option, and I've had to sell some of my less convertible locos, but my advice would be bight the bullet and go for it! You have to factor in the cost of a chip when buying a new loco. I've hardwired a couple of none - DCC ready Bachmann Jinties, and if I can manage it, it can't be that difficult!
  15. I was in there yesterday. bagged a bargain. 4 Hornby Non-corridor LMS coaches for just over £100. Still a few locos, mainly BR era, an assortment of coaches, and some wagons, as well as quite a variety of Scenecraft and Skaledale buildings. Also some none railway items. Real shame to see the shop close down.
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