MikeHunter

I'm having the opposite problem. I have a loco that seems to jump straight to full speed. I have an NCE Power Cab, and have tried resetting the decoder to factory settings, but it hasn't cured the problem. Either I'm doing something wrong with the programming, or I have a faulty decoder. As the loco is hard wired, want to triple check its not a progamming issue before changing the decoder. Its a Gaugemaster decoder. Any suggestions?

Written it up, and added to the fitting guides:

I did an extensive search for a fitting guide for this locomotive, and didn't find one anywhere so here is my guide: The loco in question is R2225 Princess Arthur of Connaught in LMS maroon. The loco is loco drive, but not DCC ready. Mine was bought new, but has sat unused for several years. This is how I did the installation, usual caveats apply that you need to wire it properly to avoid damage to the loco or decoder. I had an 8 pin Hornby decoder with a damaged pin, so used this, cutting off the pin mounting to reveal the wires, and cutting back the insulation on the 4 wires I would need. wrapping the others in insulation tape. Now to the loco: 1) Tested the loco on DC it was running well 2) Opened the loco body by removing the large screw underneath the chassis near the front 2) removed the metal weight which is screw attached and fits under the boiler in front of the motor. There didn't seem much room for the decoder anywhere else, much though I hate taking out weight. The third photo shows the position I used for the decoder. There is plenty of space without the weight. 3) cut and removed the wires to the tender draw bar, and removed the suppressor, couldn't easily leave this in as it was wired directly between the motor and the track pickups. 4) Cut the black wire through the chassis which goes to the motor - soldered the track end to the appropriate decoder wire, and soldered the other end from the motor to the correct decoder wire. 5) for the none insulated side, the track wire to the motor was attached to a screw on the top of the chassis in front of the motor. I removed this, and soldered the appropriate decoder to track wire in its place. 6) I then had to wire the remaining decoder to motor wire to the other side of the motor. (The red wire in picture 2, I reused one of the original wires, soldering it to the correct decoder wire). As this attaches under the motor, its much more easily done by unscrewing the motor from the chassis, soldering it on, and reassembling. 7) The loco was then ready for the programming track, and worked straight away. Job done! Then disaster, when reassembling the body, the the plastic thread in the front of the body broke, meaning that I couldn't reattach the screw. Beware, this may just be just a weakness in my particular model, or could be a weak design. As I use Kadees I then undid the bottom of the tender chassis, removed the coupling, and replaced with a Kadee of the right length. - Its exactly the correct height fortunately. There, job done (apart from the annoying screw thread damage. Probably just cost myself a new Lizzie when it comes out, but this is a very good model. The biggest weakness is the rear pony truck, not fixed like on the real locos and latest Hornby designs as on the Duchess, but as I have tight curves, its much less prone to shorting on points.

Thanks for the comments. Attempt 2 went as follows: 1) removed suppressor and wires from tender pick ups 2) unscrewed the motor, and soldered the two wires from the chip replacing the previous wires. 3) removed the metal weight from the front of the chassis (inside the boiler, leaving room for the chip 4) soldered the other wires from the chip to the wires from the wheel pick ups 5) insulated all soldered joints 6) refitted the body 7) programmed 8) tested an run on layout success! I'll have to write it up properly, take some screenshots and add it to the DCC fitting guides. Duchess next, which has the same chassis.

I've been DCC for a couple of years. Someone on here recommended the NCE Power Cab. I looked at several systems, but was initially attracted by the price. It is very upgradable, and is intuitive to use. I've tried a couple of other systems at exhibitions, and find the PowerCab much nicer to use. It is personal taste though, and you should definitely try several systems before deciding.

I have mainly Bachmann and Hornby decoders to date. They all work fine, great performance with slow speed shunting. I have dead frog short radius points on my dockside layout and have very little trouble with 0-6-0s stalling, even without stay alive. I run 1930s LMS so Bachmann Jinties and 1Fs. I would probably go for Lenz in future. A couple of the locos are hardwired using Hornby decoders as the locos were not DCC ready. They are some of my best runners. The only drawback I've noticed with Hornby is that they can only run old style consists (maximum 2 locos), whilst the Bachmann are fine.

Thanks Art, I'll bear that in mind. Scheduled to have another go at it this evening.

Thanks Matthew. I've previously done a couple of Bachmann Jinties without problem. Suspect there is a rogue wire somewhere still connecting to the motor.

Having failed to find a guide for this loco, I started hard wiring it this evening. Thought the best place for the decoder would be removing the weight in front of the motor. Got it fully wired, put it on the track to test, and it shorts. Seems the problem is the way the suppressor and wires from the tender pick ups reach the motor is the problem. They all seem a bit of a mess. Does anyone know whether I just need to remove the lot? Or is there a work around to keep them?

I was faced with this decision about 4 years ago, when I bought a DCC wired layout off eBay. The options were convert the layout to analogue or my stock to DCC. I had quite a large collection (though not 200 locos). Following advice on RM Web I took the plunge and went DCC, using the NCE Power Cab. Its so much more rewarding to operate than DC, that I've never looked back. It isn't a cheap option, and I've had to sell some of my less convertible locos, but my advice would be bight the bullet and go for it! You have to factor in the cost of a chip when buying a new loco. I've hardwired a couple of none - DCC ready Bachmann Jinties, and if I can manage it, it can't be that difficult!

I was in there yesterday. bagged a bargain. 4 Hornby Non-corridor LMS coaches for just over £100. Still a few locos, mainly BR era, an assortment of coaches, and some wagons, as well as quite a variety of Scenecraft and Skaledale buildings. Also some none railway items. Real shame to see the shop close down.

Hi, does anyone have good resource suggestions for finding out about typical LMS train formations in the 1930s? My layout is a depiction of the (fictitious) Sherwood Section of the LMS. So I suppose I can run just about anything, but its nice to be as realistic as possible. Also any suggestions of suitable wagons, apart from open private owners, and company standard vehicles like box vans? I'm interested to know more about none passenger workings. Lots of coal and fish trains seem likely, but I don't know much about other categories of freight train. Any suggestions very welcome. Thanks.

Thanks cravensdmufan that’s fixed it

Which is the one I'll be buying! Hadn't spotted that. So yes please Bachmann, a push-pull set to go with it would be amazing.

My most eagerly awaited new Bachmann model for a long time. Always high on my wishlist. A major gap for LMS modellers. Jut need a push pull set to run with it, (and a push pull fitted version of the loco).

Difficult choice. As I model the Midland section of the LMS, the Bachmann "small engine policy" suits my modelling needs. Love the 1F, 3F, Jinty, and G2 especially. The coal tank and 2-4-2 are also great models. Nearly forgot the Jubilee and Patriot, also great, and stunning in LMS red. Only gripe is that they miss a few obvious great sellers. Compound in LMS red, 4F and 3F in LMS livery with Fowler tender would be top of my list. I find the build quality great, cab detail amazing. They are well packed with good instructions. Another factor if you've never experienced it - rang their customer services for advice, and they were brilliant over the phone. So really good after sales.

Still away in Spain, will try it when home this weekend. Expect it will fix it as it works fine in all other respects.

Hi Ron, couldn't see a relevant thread, though I may have missed something. Cleaning and running in is especially important for DCC layouts. Happy to delete or move the thread.

Hi, I have a couple of Hornby Fowler Tanks, both bought second hand. Neither run well. I know the conventional wisdom is try them on analogue, but I think the issue is simply dirty wheels and wipers. As cleanses is vital with DCC, any special tips on how to do heavy maintenance to get em running freely?

I'd like an LMS livery 4F with Fowler tender - easy addition to the range and a Midland Compound in 1930s Crimson lake An LMS push pull set to go with the 0-4-4 would be nice

Thanks Dave I'll check, but suspect it should work with the six. Its brand new.

Sorry if my post was unclear. its a second unit, not a second hand one. I'll check the version number, but its a brand new unit from Hattons not a second hand one.

Hi, I've just bought a second Power Cab, and I'm having a problem with storing and switching between stored loco numbers. I have two separate layouts, with separate feeds, and one PowerCab for each. The older cab stores 6 loco numbers successfully, and allows me to scroll between them. The new Power Cab doesn't let me store more than two. It works perfectly in other respects. Swapping the two units I get the same result, so its definately something to do with the handset. Any ideas? I've proablably missed something very obvious when setting it up. Can't see anything I've missed in the handbook though.

Just spotted on the Hornby site (finally working) that 6201 is going to be available in Crimson Lake either DCC ready, or DCC fitted. Seems to be around £30 difference in the RRP, is it worth paying the extra, or adding your own decoder?