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John Tomlinson

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  • Location
    Rutland
  • Interests
    Modelling BR Eastern Region transition era. Photography of current and preserved scenes, both at home and abroad.

    Plans for the future include O Gauge Western Region in the Shropshire area, and N gauge Germany 1980's & 1990's.

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  1. That's a neat take on George Best's famous quip, when asked where the money had gone following his bankruptcy "most of it went on booze and birds, the rest I just squandered". I'm sure Mrs. 46256 would prefer your choice! The little Hudswell Clarke diesel shunter looks a very good moulding for the BR variant. I have a long term project building one of these in 7mm from the Mercian kit in brass and nickel silver. The problem with that is there were many variants of these, as a lot were built for industry, and the Mercian kit is just a general one which has engine room doors the wrong size for the BR version, plus some other issues. It stil looks like a BR HC shunter on first glance, but not on detailed scrutiny. Your moulding looks fine as far as I can remember. I never saw the BR ones as they went before I was old enough to travel much, and my Dad didn't like going to Merseyside in any case because of the perceived crime risk. There are several apparently in preservation that were built for industry. John.
  2. Totally agree about using the Xurons, these are generally good for cutting parts off sprues on plastic kits as well. To clean up the Isinglass resin, I used the metal nail files from Boots, which give a firm flat surface suitable, for example, for clearing the insides of window frames. It's worth giving the resin a good wash and scrub in warm water and Cif/ Jif, just to help get rid of the stickiness from the printing process. John.
  3. Yes, if you replace the motor and do it yourself, you need to measure the position of flywheel and worm on the motor axle, so that they go back in exactly the same place. As the new motor should be identical it shouldn't matter where you measure from, for safety I would take from the motor body itself going out either end. John.
  4. I have one of these and completely agree that they are a lovely model. If you still have your childhood one do put them side by side. Despite all the criticism you'll see that the pattern makers in Margate long ago weren't that far out after all. It's very easy to think that one worked off East London (Stratford), on a passenger special or a freight back in the '50's, quite possibly never reported anywhere. John.
  5. There is a number on the leaflet with the model, but whether this is any use I don't know. The whole Heljan spares situation is not a happy one since they moved from Howes of Oxford. I'd strongly advise you to measure the thing when you get to it and ring one of the people I've listed. Good luck with removing the flywheels and worm, they are very tight indeed and remember you need to get them back in exactly the same place on your new motor. John.
  6. I'd suggest you contact Olivia's Trains in Sheffield. They did offer a replacement motor service, and for an extra £5 would fit the flywheels/ worm from your old motor - obviously you have to send this to them. This service was as of a year or more ago, so give them a ring first. The motor itself costs around £20. If you are confident of getting the flywheels/ worm off yourself then measure the length of the motor - I think there are two lengths of this can type - and source from Gaugemaster, Peters Spares, or Olivias direct, probably some others as well. I did the fitting myself on a duff motor in a class 16 diesel and really wish I'd paid someone instead, although I did get there in the end. John.
  7. Rutland's territorial status is a bit complex, and I've sent you a PM. At least our esteemed Prime Minister recognised the quality of the place in his "levelling sideways" speech last week. Life expectancy of folk here is apparently 10 years greater than for those in Glasgow or Blackpool, something even he, in his wisdom and magnificence, finds baffling! John.
  8. Very easy to get "to" the motor when you're as far in as the situation in the photo. Basically the black cylinder on the left houses the motor, the cylinder slides into the firebox and boiler moulding. The cylinder is in two halves, split lengthways,and secured by a couple of screws. Undo the screws, separate the halves, and the motor is plain to see. As for getting "into" the motor, I suspect forget it. If you have one that's gone, you'll almost cetainly need a replacement, and also need to be able to transfer the flywheels/ worm from the old to the new. John.
  9. That looks terrrific, especially without the awful factory weathering. Is the Kleer brushed on or sprayed, I ask as spraying doesn't seem to work that well for me. Many thanks, John.
  10. In fact more than this, be very careful where you take it afterwards. Many varieties are quite "tarry" that's to say they aren't totally hard and dry. If you crush some into a light coloured carpet by mistake you could be in big lumber as the mark will be hard if not impossible to get rid of. John.
  11. It is a bit slow. Go Railways HO/OO, then Hornby - Drive units. Ref. X9634. Some other reasonably priced goodies in that section as well. John.
  12. Knowing the chaps on here to be ever so slightly interested in DMU's, I did see earlier that Lendon's of Cardiff are now selling new Hornby 121 drive units for £8.98. These are the self contained units that Hornby developed to replace the Lima pancakes. It seems quite a good price to me. John.
  13. Thanks to you both for your very helpful answers. I must have missed the bit in Derry - I assume this is the Irwell Book of the WC's and BB's. Must try harder!! John.
  14. Further to my last post, I think I've worked out what happened to the chassis. It appears that I now have a later period chassis without the springing on the rear driving axle and also a chip. So someone must have done a swap to make DCC installation simpler. I'd still love to know the reality of the colour of the wheels on the loco, if anyone can help please? John.
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