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John Tomlinson

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    Modelling BR Eastern Region transition era. Photography of current and preserved scenes, both at home and abroad.

    Plans for the future include O Gauge Western Region in the Shropshire area, and N gauge Germany 1980's & 1990's.

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  1. I thought their Hymek was rather good, and also the Western, even though the latter could be tweeked to lift the headcode panel a smidge. John.
  2. I think that is correct. The other 48 were built with the mu apparatus, but it was concealed behind blanking plates on the loco front beneath the cab. It was presumably a simple task to remove the plates and fit the connectors. I've thought of changing the Hornby model of D421 (original railblue) back to as built condition without the external cables. Looking at photos of the locos like this they do have a certain purity about them, particularly compared to later life when they acquired the headlights as well. I also seem to remember, although it's a long time ago now, that the haulage patterns could be quite confusing to a train watcher. Whilst the Euston - Glasgows, at 2 hour intervals, usually managed double heading, the various intermediate workings did not. So the trains that split/ joined at Preston for Manchester and Liverpool, those doing same at Carstairs for Glasgow/ Edinburgh, the services north from Birmingham to Scotland, and the Euston - Carlisles were usually single headed. I suspect these were 10 or 11 coaches rather than the 13 of the Euston - Glasgows, but still a fair load over Shap and Beattock. Looking forward to seeing the layout at Peterborough in a couple of months time, perhaps we can have the pair of 50's on show! John.
  3. I don't know quite how this works on RMweb, but a plea not to have these threads deleted, even if they are mothballed. I've found them both informative and inspiring, and do pop back for a look from time to time. John.
  4. Apologies, its me getting muddled. I assumed that as your drawing came from the "imaginary locos" thread, it was of an imaginary subject. Duh!! Looking at the photo of 4615 above it does appear to match the subject of the drawing. John.
  5. Those old Triang Hornby containers scrub up well with a new paint job, and this looks like another interesting project that you're starting. Nice to see your Kestrel with HS 4000 logo peering out from behind the tower of containers! John.
  6. I think the Silver Fox parts are available, try "sk modeller" on ebay, or he has a website. You need to be careful of the moulded rivets just below the cantrail on the Lima model, to match up decide if you are cutting below them or if you'll bring a panel in on which they are included. John.
  7. Six hours airbrush spraying in the garden today, several trays of various models. All seems to have gone well for once!

  8. I'm pretty sure the pin on the VL8 is just between the couplings on the individual units, and there is a standard coupling between the two parts. Your "imaginary" drawing is interesting, an enlarged 46 presumably. Would look good with Metrovick style cab front. John.
  9. I was thinking of your lovely Garratt in raising the idea of a "double electric", for substantial commodity traffic. If the NSW 46's date from 1956 - 58 then the 76's would have been in service for several years beforehand. Wath to Dunford Bridge went electric in February 1952, with the full opening through the new Woodhead tunnel in September 1954. So yes, I guess they would have been able to learn from those years and improve the springing. Again in the back of my mind is that the 76's weren't meant to be Bo+Bo, but that the linkage was added early on because of the riding problems. I don't want to clog your thread, but it might be of interest to see the VL8 linkages. Each of these is a Bo+Bo, then another permanently coupled. Not so far from the pairs of 76's in their last decade on the mgr's. The two VL8 pics are in Krasny Liman works in the eastern Ukraine, and you can see the linkages are just male and female extensions to the castings that sit on top of each other. The nearest two are one type, the farthest the other. Sorry the pic is a bit dark, but works lighting out there wasn't to western standards;
  10. I've had similar experiences to this, you turn the room upside down, only for the missing object to appear in plain sight several days later. I also think there's a rule of modelling that says when you look for something you've lost, you find the thing you lost before! Back on thread these are interesting experiments with What-if units, always fascinating to see. John.
  11. Something in the back of my mind says that the NSW 46's were similar in any case to the Woodhead EM1/ 76, with Metrovick electrical equipment and the same Bo+Bo wheel arrangement, i.e. bogies joined together. I may however be wrong, so perhaps someone could confirm? You could also go for a shrunken Soviet version of the same thing, which operate as fixed pairs, the VL8's, seen here at Slavyansk in the eastern Ukraine in May 2010.
  12. My sympathy with the previous pictures. I hate trying to glue gears or worms onto axles or motors. Either the glue takes too quickly and they are in the wrong place, or else they don't hold. To remdy the latter I now as standard practise wipe the motor shaft or axle with Track Cleaning Fluid, and let it dry off without touching. This seems to get it sufficiently clean - grease free - for superglue to bite and hold. Chris in his instructions specifies smearing the superglue/ loctite on the motor shaft end once the worm is in place. Presumably capilliary action is meant to do the trick, I'm yet to test my A2 under real load to see how well it holds. The joys of kit-building!! John.
  13. Yes, the house and garden (on old Lincoln Road) went some months ago. John.
  14. I did wonder when this started what exactly was being done to justify the £200million price tag. I guess the answer is slowly being explained in your pictures, for which many thanks! John.
  15. Apologies if this has been said before, but I think that if you're buying secondhand you should be prepared to do some work on what you buy. There's a reason for that big discount! This may not be necessary, but as like as not will be required. So if you aren't comfortable about whipping the body off and have a rummage around inside, then stick to new from a shop or dealer, so that you can land any problems back on their doorstep. My personal experience is that you can save a packet by going for pre-owned items on the likes of ebay, plus have access to older items no longer available new. I quite like messing around with locos and their mechanisms, and there's a lot of help available on here if you're facing something tricky. You can start by looking at the relevant thread for the loco when it was introduced, usually under the manufacturer's section, which will often give some useful pointers. John.
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