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John Tomlinson

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  • Location
    Rutland
  • Interests
    Modelling BR Eastern Region transition era. Photography of current and preserved scenes, both at home and abroad.

    Plans for the future include O Gauge Western Region in the Shropshire area, and N gauge Germany 1980's & 1990's.

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  1. Lovely set of pictures and videos Andy. Unless your 60118 is a renumber, it isn't one of the earliest batch of A1's, so should have a decent motor. I actually can't remember which variants had which issues, my four have all been through "Works", with various mods, the first two bought as 60147 and 60158 went back to Bachmann for new motors. These were the very first batch, I took them to Barwell myself and on opening the door saw a great pile of A1's awaiting the trip back to China! A long time ago, Midland Counties books was just down the road and a good day out until some macho management idiot decided to close it down. Worth checking the springs on pony and bogie aren't either too strong, or too thick so that their wheels can't sit above the level of the drivers when the springs are compressed. The tender wheels varied a bit on mine as well from memory, some being quite stiff. I put some lead in the smokebox, and a bit around the motor area, though this may not be possible for you with a DCC Chip. Every little helps as they say. You mention as well your WD +30 derails in reverse. I wonder if any of the axles are a bit stiff here, as this could cause a problem. Presumably they buffer up OK on reversing, although as the wagons are similar in length the bit extra on the 21t 'ers shouldn't make that much difference. I wonder if it might be the "S" bend on the layout, try stopping the train as you go through it, drawing forward a bit and then reversing again, it might indicate that the buffers aren't sliding against each other as they need to. I remain astounded by your level of output. John.
  2. Is this the Judith Edge kit, or have you scratchbuilt? Lovely whatever. John.
  3. Thanks for posting all the videos of late, very enjoyable indeed. Hope the general level of activity indicates that the "lurgi" hasn't been too bad for you? John.
  4. My own experience is that there isn't a "for all time 100%" answer to everything running and working perfectly all the time - although obviously that's what we strive for. I've found that locos not used for a while can have "sticky" front bogies and ponies that derail, but can be cured by waggling about and adding a tiny drop of oil to the rubbing parts and also the axle holes in the frames. There isn't an intrinsic problem, just that the masses involved are so small that the least resistance sends things awry. Other things can go wrong as well with age. I don't thankfully have much of a problem with baseboards, but then my layout is in a centrally heated bedroom, being only around half the length of Gresley Jn. However point motors can be erratic, sometimes having enough grunt to work, sometimes not. I'm reluctant to install a capacitor as the "thud" involved on a good day is strong enough already and I've had a few points (Peco 75) where a blade has broken from the tie bar. Point motor behaviour can change even depending on the time I'm using the layout, presumably, say on a Sunday late morning, when the Grid is loaded with everyone cooking Sunday lunch! John.
  5. If all our Prime Minister had to worrry about was "container gate", he'd be a very happy man!! John.
  6. I'm sure I've seen some pics too, but heaven knows where! The branding on lowfits, not to be used for containers, suggests that at least some events had happened for this to be considered necessary. John.
  7. Birchwood Casey Brass Black (or indeed any other of their Blacks), isn't an etching primer, it's a blackening fluid. By that I mean it chemically reacts to the brass to make it "Black". I've put "Black" in inverted commas as the final result won't be black as such, but a greyish brown. The other thing with the Blackening fluids is that they don't work properly unless the surface is really clean, so beforehand don rubber gloves and scrub with kitchen cleaner, and don't touch the surface with your fingers until you are finished. You can apply the fluid with a cotton bud, and keep going until everything has gone dark, or dunk the whole thing - I'd go for the former, as the latter may just make a mess everywhere. Etching primer is something else entirely, being a form of paint that covers the thing being painted as well as chemically etching itself into the surfcae to provide a primer layer for subsequent coates. It is invariably best applied either through a spray can or even better an airbrush (clean without delay afterwards). In common with Blackening fluid it is essentail the surface you are painting is absolutely clean and grease free, so gloves and cleaner and don't touch until fininshed! Etching primer will work on both white metal and brass, so is probably your best bet for the whole job. You'll want to add topcoats afterwards to get a proper job. Personally I use Blackening fluid for litte bits of detail applied to models, and find that for something small that won't be handled I can get away with this plus a dab of paint. I certainly wouldn't do a whole model this way. John.
  8. One for those who say you can't see the welding ribs on Mk1 roofs as well! Happy New year to Clive and everyone else who has made this thread such an enjoyable read over the year. John.
  9. Thanks for this, especially the videos, and for Coulsdon Works, Andy. Happy New Year to you too! John.
  10. As you are in the attic I wonder if temperature changes over the years have had some effect on the boards and track? Your videos on different parts of the layout always seem to have decent running, so there can't be that much wrong. If you'd had a little branchline with two DMU's and a class 31 in the spare bedroom, no doubt the running would have been perfect - but not so much fun I think! John.
  11. There was a time, maybe 15 -20 years ago, that Essery Vol.1 was like gold dust. I remember paying something I shudder to think of for one in Robert Humms in Stamford. The BR Standard Wagons book by the group of four including Paul Bartlett was even scarcer, but eventually I found one of those as well. A great pity they never went beyond Volume 1. All of the ones on your shelf seem to be near indispensible if you wish your wagons to be correct. John.
  12. FWIW I've used a dab of superglue to fix the brake rigging on all my Hornby MN/ BB/ WC's. Seems to work OK, though rough handling can make them fall off. Like you I loathe things falling off, and equally am very keen to apply the contents of detailing packs, as I think they add a lot. It was all a lot easier when we were kids! John.
  13. I wouldn't be put off by a colour in a photo being a bit light or dark, there's several stages of adjustment in making the photo that can cause a lot of difference, and that's before you get to the actual shade of the paint! Here's my take on a "What if" version of P2's done as a production run, as they might have been in the early BR period. It uses Railmatch enamel, applied through my airbrush. The loco is seen with a Bachmann A1, also in early BR blue as interpreted by Bachmann, then a Hornby "full fat" P2 in LNER green. John.
  14. Given the first item on your present list, you might be interested in the latest posting on my Flickr site, referenced below. John.
  15. I don't think there were more than a handful, if that, in this scheme. John.
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