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John Tomlinson

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  • Location
    Rutland
  • Interests
    Modelling BR Eastern Region transition era. Photography of current and preserved scenes, both at home and abroad.

    Plans for the future include O Gauge Western Region in the Shropshire area, and N gauge Germany 1980's & 1990's.

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  1. At risk of sounding somewhat cold and irreverent, one wonders if something terminal happened to the person who painted the models, as otherwise it wouldn't make sense not to take the tape off. I've wondered a few times in the past how an Executor would view my "in progress" models, probably chuck the lot in the bin I expect, not a cheery subject I know. John.
  2. Ha, thanks. Not really my department, and I'd like to keep it that way! John.
  3. In a spirit of wild enthusiasm, I have this afternoon managed to replace the motor in my class 16, which now runs like new! The big difficulty is to get the flywheels off the old motor. As I mentioned above, a tiny bit of heat can be used to soften and remove the plastic drive cups, however I then found that the flywheels were on the motor shaft so tightly that they bent my worm and gear puller! Given that the motor is a goner, the answer I stumbled on was to break off the motor shaft close to the motor itself - it's not steel as we know it - then with the flywheel standing on a plate with a hole in it beneath the shaft, belt the protruding bit of shaft with a nail punch and big hammer, which gets the rest of the shaft out. Fitting the flywheels onto the new motor then needs to be done carefully using a vice as one would for any worm fitting. The drive cups need to be cleaned up so they fit with the outer faces flush with the flywheel, and superglued back in. I still think it would have been easier to pay Olivia's a fiver to do the job. John.
  4. Some later variants may also have screws at the ends of the chassis, close by the buffer beam. I think these were introduced when the models were given lights. 37's are the same. John.
  5. Nay mi ducks, we go to Nottingham every year to do the Christmas shopping! John.
  6. This does look very good. You must be confident in the fit to have the wings and tailparts still separate at this stage, presumably you aren't anticipating needing filler or paint? John.
  7. Hi Martin, When you say this, do you mean applied before, during or after the Modelmaster decal is applied? If after that would be good to know, as I have few errant bits on a DMU project. Many thanks, John.
  8. Many thanks for the reply. The 119 suggests using double sided tape, an idea I'm uncomfortable with for several reasons, so I'll be glueing as you have done. I'm very heartened by your tale, as I don't like the idea of pre-painting before the job is done - it's far too easy to do something later that makes a mess. Thanks again, I'm sure I'll be following your approach. John.
  9. Many thanks for your very illuminating and helpful posts. I've only ever used the Birchwood Casey products, so interesting to read your last comment! John.
  10. The issue of conductivity on whel tyres is someting that has always bothered me. When Heljan started their 4mm diesel range the wheels were subject to some form of blackening which looked fine and realistic. Unfortunately it appeared to carry on reacting so that if you didn't use the loco for a while and then tried it, it wouldn't go without a lot of wheel cleaning! Interesting to read of your experience with Slaters wheels as I've been doing some modelling in 7mm. I used blackening fluid on some driving wheels as otherwise they seem prone to corrosion, having read somewhere that it shouldn't affect conductivity, and your experience is further proof. John.
  11. I'm interested in how you've applied the overlays. The instructions with my Silver Fox 119 seemed to imply that having cut out the windows on the base shell, you should then glue in the clear perspex, to reinstate the integrity of the shell, then glue on the overlays. Working in this order, then logically the overlays should be painted before you glue them on, or else you are faced with a hideous masking job! By leaving some of the window level plastic on the original coach you've taken a more traditional approach to the problem, and as long as the overlays aren't so fragile as to be damaged before you get to putting in the perspex, this approach should work. John.
  12. I've never done a full loco body, but use the technique a lot on small parts, which can allow you to get away without a primer painting coat if they just need a touch of black to finish. Blackening brass wire is especially useful prior to use in making handrails etc. Dave's insistance on cleanliness in preparation is spot on in my experience, the fluid simply won't take if there is any residual muck or grease. Worth also mentioning that "blackening" isn't quite the outcome, you don't get a deep black sheen, but rather a dullish dark grey brownish cover - as Dave's photos of the body show. Very tempted having seen this excellent outcome to try a "full monty" on my next kit! John.
  13. What is the origin of these locos, or are they scratchbuild by you? Very lovely models whatever the source. John.
  14. Surely the point about the impact on travel for work in the longer term simply is unknown at this this stage. Anecdotally we can all tell a story. One friend of my wife's who works in Canary Wharf but lives in Fulham is quite determined not to make this trek five days a week in future, and tells us that many friends of hers feel the same about their commute. They might go in two/ three days a week, for special meetings or for a good reason, but that's it. The employer may be able to save office space and so rental costs by having multiple use desks - a gain to them - but we'll see. What we do know is that the enforced lockdown has meant that huge numbers of people have for the first time had to take remote working seriously, and some may like it, some not. It seems to me that the longer this goes on, the more people will adjust, and particularly if there is the feared "second wave" in a few weeks time, the present arrangements may prove to become more and more embedded as a permanent change in behaviour. John.
  15. Many thanks for posting this very informative note. One thing that has puzzled me for a while looking at photos and drawings, is the apparent absence of the pair of vacuum tanks on some coaches. These are the cylinders running longitudinally between the vacuum brake apparatus and the battery box on your BTO model above, but absent on the BT - the one with the trussing rather than angle irons. Is there a reason for this? Many thanks, John.
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