Chris Horner

Has anyone had any problems with the pantograph servo being temperamental? Are there any fixes or replacements available. Mine hardly ever works.

Maybe not exactly a DCC question (but then again the servo only works using DCC) but I have 2 original Inter-City liveried Class 90's with LokSound V5 from LegomanBiffo, and the servo's used to raise/lower the pan on both hardly ever work. I've had the bodies off and you can feel them spinning quietly & if you touch the cog wheels whilst its trying to turn, it makes a squeak sound and then works fine for the rest of the day. Only to come back a couple of days later and they refuse to operate again. Is this a recognised fault, and is there an upgrade or a quick fix? (I've tried a dot of plastic grease on one of them but still no joy)

Track down! Still undecided if I should create another road off the right hand dead end siding or not. I’m thinking of having a scrap loco line. Plenty of time to decide while I give it a thorough shake down for a month or 2. Looking forward to filling the holding sidings up with my stock now!

Well all the points are down. Got a week off to lay the last bits of track. Fit the last 5 point motors and the wire up underneath!

Could I ask if you found a solution to this. I’m experiencing the same problem with one motor. Works fine on one lead off the point but shorts the frog on the other. Thanks

Spent the afternoon adding a couple of pieces of plain track and then started on the wiring as looked like jungle creepers were taking over under the baseboard! Used the terminal blocks, as seen on one of Charlie at Chadwick’s YouTube videos. Made everything a lot simpler, even if it doesn’t look it!

The angles were done more for necessity than anything for decent access and the radiator but I also like the way it looks. I’m thinking of not having any backscene apart from the dog leg where the arrival road comes in. Think it’ll give it a more war hammer model gamer table look. But may change my mind

Last 2 points on the Depot arrival end weighted down. Will probably wire up this side before starting on the 10 remaining points at the neck end. The underside looks like a jungle at the moment with wires hanging everywhere!

Things starting to happen now. First set of points (brilliantly made by Hayfield, check out his blog on hand made points) have been wired up and stuck down. There was an issue with a yellowing of the rails which was traced to the PVA glue fumes that was used. I did change to Evostik timebond to do a couple, but while this has stuck them down ok, it was far too much of a messy gloopy ordeal. So I’m now waiting for some copydex to carry on with.

Did you ever solve this problem after painting? I’ve recently had the same experience with some hand made C&L point work. A day after using PVA to stick down the points the rail has gone very yellow in places.

Urban. Any scenics will mainly be of a busy working maintenance depot and holding sidings

full templot plan laid out.

Hi Jamie Can I ask how you got on with this? I'm going to be wiring my own DCC sound layout using a Z21 and Cobalt point motors soon. Whilst researching what size wire to get for the Bus and droppers I came across this thread and, because of the similarities with me, was curious to see what the outcome was. Thanks Chris

No I’d not realised, thanks. The template on my design had used PECO SL-E186 points and they do not look that severe a curve to be honest. They’re just listed as ‘double radius’ which doesn’t line up with any other firms (marcway, C&L) description of the radius of their points

Thanks. Already got one eye on these. Although doing curved points might need some bodging