[The 'New' Peco Parkside BR 13 Ton Coal Hoppers]

As always they look better weathered and in service !

 

 

 

The first one has the earliest markings, no black panels. My second may yet have the early markings IF I can be bothered

to make up such small running numbers consisting of 7 digits each side. If you've tried working the HMRS BR Freight Stock

pressfix sheet you'll understand what I mean.

Brilliant runners at under 12.5 grams each. I'll prefer to run that light rather than spoil the outline and underneath with

lead weights afixed. Adding weight in a load no problem, but won't I be doing them until back orders arrive.

 

Geoff T

[Time to show some activity to prove I'm still alive !]

Hi Mikkel,

 

Yes, laying abandoned - should have given a serious weathering first.

 

That fencing is Ratio #144, comes as a pack of stanchions with shortish

lengths of stainless wire. The holes seem ideal for longer lengths of brass

wire I have here. You don't get much for a fiver, but then you'd have severe

difficulty making something like that at home.

I've used it once before :-

 

 

There are so many small accessories available that many go unnoticed.

 

Geoff T 

["Jurassic Models" ? Well Almost !!]

I've prepared a couple of decals, 'Bridport Gas' in red on a yellow oval

outlined in black. Factious of course, except that there was a Bridport

Gas & Coke company.

 

Geoff T. 

["Jurassic Models" ? Well Almost !!]

Just got dates of 1959 - 1961 at Chorleywood, then moved to a new address.

So this kit was produced as near to 60 years ago as can be reasonably calculated.

 

Information from the Brighton Toy Museum.

 

Geoff T.

["Jurassic Models" ? Well Almost !!]

Thanks for the extra info snitchthebudgie.

Proves it's not a New kit !!

 

Pinched a coupling with NEM pocket from another wagon and fitted on. It runs well as expected.

I decided to finish the body painting with some dark grey.

Apart from hanging door stops it's very good. now needing those decals.

 

 

Obviously the chassis needs painting black and the whole thing weathering.

 

I was wondering what might make a reasonable coke load. All my various coal substitutes are far too black.

I'm thinking perhaps woodland scenics medium cinders would do, only I don't have any for a final appraisal.

 

Now I have more info on the Open 'C' I'll probably get back to that. Making up 'V' hangers and such that's missing.

 

Geoff T

["Jurassic Models" ? Well Almost !!]

Thanks for the reply Ravenser,

 

It's quite entertaining trying to unearth as much of the historic kit information as possible.

Still much to do, but here it is with the only coupling I have being harmonized with my existing

stock, which out of interest is my only other coke wagon.

 

 

As expected it runs well at the end of a train. Until I can find another coupling it can't be heavily loaded with a string

of wagons behind. Not weighed it either, but I really don't think it needs, or would benefit from any

 

As a 5 planker I expected it to be lower than the more usual 7 & 8 plank coke wagons, however the fact it has 3 raves

rather than 2 brings it very close as can be seen in the picture. The Thomas W Ward wagon is my only other coke wagon

and is a Mainline model that's had the original coupling mountings sawn off and replaced with Peco PA34 mountings

fitted with Bachmann couplers. The original wheel sets have been replaced with Dapol, whereas the Ratio kit wheels

are Hornby, note the deeper flanges always handy should you end up with a less than flat chassis. This wagon is flat,

no diagonal rock at all.

 

Shortcomings, not really that bad, no side door buffer strips as you find on say, the Dapol 16 ton mineral, but then there

are none on the Mainline wagon either.

 

Back to some painting and perhaps dreaming up my P.O. markings, I wonder 'Bridport Gas' ??

 

Geoff T

[Another Cambrian Kit rolling through]

Hi westernviscount,

 

Cambrian kits can be difficult, nearly every one throws up quirky requirement. All except the Sleeper Wagon which

was easy.

Anyway the Dogfish is now all together, less couplings as I've run out of my Bachmann standard. I'll probably pinch

the NEM pockets and couplings off another wagon, pending Bachmann ever returning them to the market place !!

 

 

 

The chassis is  still flat, no diagonal rock so should be a reliable runner particularly as it's fitted with Hornby

wheel sets and their deeper flanges. At 18.5 grams it's a bit on the light side, but being an engineers wagon

it wouldn't be running in a long freight

 

Photographed alongside one of my Catfish ballast wagons I used as a reference due to the basic chassis being the same.

 

Geoff T.

[Another Cambrian Kit rolling through]

Not really a comment, but an extension of the Dogfish build.

I didn't get much done last evening, just adding the buffers and then fixing the hopper and chute in place.

The hopper didn't seem to fit too well and I spent some time with many dry fit tests after trimming some

of the hopper reinforcing ribs. Even then with the supporting framework in line with the chassis it wasn't

sitting centrally in the chassis. It's also essential that no stress is brought into the build at this juncture as

it would then distort your square running chassis !!

Partially my fault I found that the chute was slightly distorted, again this has to be attached without adding

any twist pressures to the chassis. After the time spend getting what I wanted I stopped for the evening.

 

Today I rolled the wire provided to remove a bend where it was attached to the packaging. Trusting (partially)

measurements for control wheel shafts I cut the three lengths, adding between 0.5 & 1.0 mm as you can always

trim a little off, but not stick any more on !! While working the wire I decided to cut and bend the safety rails as

required for crew safety. I noticed that footplate the holes were not in the same place as my Catfish builds, yet

used the same chassis ? In my opinion the access gap using the Dogfish mounting was far too narrow. I decided

to drill replacements using my Catfish model as a guide.

 

 

 

Now bent as required to match. Strange as the Catfish chassis is the same ? yet certainly had the mounting hole the other side

of a mounting plate moulded on the original chassis. Why do I think it should be the same chassis ? There are unequal end supports

required for the Dogfish, with the catfish soulbars you get the same with instructions to cut the taller end down to match the other end.

 

I now have to undertake a drag of a fix. The brake alignment on the kits is suitable for P4. If you fix your brake hangers to the moulded

on spigots they will be waving in the wind between the wheel and W irons. I trimmed the spigots off before starting the build and now

will add an extension to each brake hanger to move the brakes to be in line with the tyres

 

An early example before a little tidy up from when I was making the 'Shark' brake van. On that I didn't cut the spigots off completely

I'm trying a slightly different approach this time.

 

 

Not a long way to go, but I have some baking to do - nice fresh cake, what's not to like about that !!!!

 

Geoff T.

 

[Back to wagons again]

Hi John,

 

Obviously you understand the 'white decals on white paper' problem !!

 

Posting off tomorrow.

 

Geoff T

[Back to wagons again]

Thanks for that John,

 

I will admit I've not studied the contents of your sheets, partially on the cost of a sheet

when compared to a single model. However as I don't think I'll be stopping my wagon

building in the near future It's probably a worthwhile investment. Using just 3, or 4 times

makes it a sound investment, so long as I can locate what I want on the big sheet !! My

eyes are not what they once were and finding Fox Tare Weights, white decals, on white

backing paper is almost impossible.

 

Geoff T.

[Back to wagons again]

Hi Mikkel,

 

Well I am looking at cutting some sleepers off old Hornby Dublo two rail track. Their

sleepers don't seem to have holes under the chairs as so much modern track has.

Only time will tell if it's practical.

One thing I can't find is where the ledgend "Return to Hayes" would be fixed. It can't

be on the side as two chain boxes down each solebar doesn't leave any space. Probably

on the insides of the end plates. Then of course where can you find such a decal !!

"Return to" is not a problem and can be obtained from the HMRS sheet, It may be a

plan to just have a dirty smudge at the end ?

 

Anyway thanks for the comment Mikkel !

 

 

Geoff T.

[It must be me ? Finding my blog is almost impossible.]

Thanks Barry.

On some 'Profile' just tells you your available personal details.

Used it this time, I'll remember that now !!

 

Geoff T.

[I Needed A Rest.]

Hi Westernviscount,

 

The last part first as it's the easiest. Yes that is a Dapol BR Brake Van kit that is now fitted with a TrainTech movement activated

tail lamp as well as all the grab rails removed and replaced with 0.5 mm brass wires. The roof vents were removed and replaced

with white metal ones in the right place and cabin windows glazed. They can be bought so cheaply and while needing work to

bring to modern standards I thoroughly enjoy the process !!

 

Cambrian kits ...... Difficult as they are not for the novice, yet make up eventually into nice models. One of my first Mods is to cut

off the brake hanging spigots, these are set for EM/P4 wheel spacing and will leave you with brakes dangling in the air miles from

a wheel !! My fix is to find some plastic rod that just about fits a brakes moulded in hole, glue in with about a couple of mm sticking

out. I then countersink into the solebar at the spigot location small holes (DON'T DRILL RIGHT THROUGH) that allow the rod extensions

to locate into. Take great care when trying to put the headstocks, solebars and frame infill together, this can be a nightmare.

I also found it best to stick one tip-rail fitting onto the body (The one with the small rollers you have to glue in). The second tip-rail

I attach to the chassis. Ahh I remember now that I trimmed off some bolt heads where the tip-rails sit on the chassis - I got a better

fit that way. These are certainly not a first kit job !!!

 

Geoff T.

[I said I'd be back to wagons - HOW many ??]

Probably the last posting in this short Farmhouse diorama thread.

Pond filled, a shepherd with a small flock of sheep and that old horse and cart coming up the track.

There are still a few small jobs to do - reeds at the pond margin, and perhaps an odd bush.

 

 

Taking photos with very small digi cameras in poor light, expect rubbish results.

However I do like this one, notice the stroppy sheep looking the sheepdog in the eye !!

 

 

Back to wagons now ?

 

Dad-1

[I said I'd be back to wagons - HOW many ??]

Another couple of photos from last evening when I'd weathered the bridge.

Almost finished now.

 

 

 

Now to find a horse and cart, somewhere in the loft.

 

Dad-1

 

[The Big day over - Now to recommence wagon building]

Mike, I'm rather shocked.

The trouble is that moving away at the end of 2013 I gradually lost contact with MKMRS. You try to keep in touch for a

couple of years, but all too easily you get involved with your local areas activities.

 

Geoff T.

[The Big day over - Now to recommence wagon building]

Hi Mike,

How the four of us ever thought we'd get this into 3, or 4 cars is a mystery !!

Even now in moments of sheer indulgence I think another 40" board to extend both the sidings and particularly the station

would be good. It was built to run longer trains and in all honesty we can only get 7 coaches inside the platform ramps, wouldn't

it be nice to make that 10 !!

I hear Terry Silver is not at all well, one of the original 'Team' with Ian H, and Jamie. This layout is full of memories. The row of

houses behind the sidings have a street name-plate each end "Hatton Terrace" in memory of the late John Hatton who was given

the job of showing me around Bletchley when I joined the MK club.

 

Dad-1

[Time to tidy up]

Thanks for that Guy,

I'll have to check it out - I do find Fox difficult to find my way

around. I even have a FOX BR sheet where I can't read the decals

to know which ones to use, very small, and printed white on white !!

 

Dad-1

[Coming to the end of this build]

With a real fear of over egging it I shall post pictures of all in the final general build state. Yes I do have detail work that

at my speed may take weeks, running into months to finish.

First one for the clubs layout, built back in November - I liked it so much I bought 4 more !!

V12, Fitted, Louvre shutter vents, laminated spring buffers, early large size GW markings, end number.

 

 

V12, Unfitted, No tie-bars, Louvre shutter vents, laminated spring buffers, later reduced size GW markings, end number.

 

 

V14, Fitted, Bonnet end vents, GWR Self Contained Buffers, Smaller GW side markings, No end numbers

 

 

V16, Unfitted, with Tie-Bars, Bonnet end vents, GWR self Contained Buffers, Post 1937 GW markings and weight revised up to 12 Ton.

 

 

V14, Fitted, Bonnet End Vents, GWR Self Contained Buffers, BR Bauxite, 12 Ton marking

 

 

All the same ?

 

I think I'll take a rest !!!

 

Dad-1

 

[Coming to the end of this build]

One almost ready for weathering.

16307 an unfitted V12 with louvre end vents. I still have to add the wagon numbers to the ends.

I also note some of the HMRS decal adhesive showing, particularly around the 'G', as indicated

all these markings are from the generic HMRS GWR Wagon sheet. Pressdown decals are fine and

easy enough to work with although a very different technique for anyone used to waterslide decals.

The dot in the tare weight needs a fine magnifying glass to work with !!

 

 

Dad-1

 

[Something Missing ?]

Firstly the Decals. ModelMaster were commissioned to do small decal sheets to include with the NEW Peco packaged

Parkside kits. I say NEW because where they have a legacy stock they will still be without decals. In fact I don't know if

ModelMaster have completed all the sheets required for the full range yet. This may be a creeping development.

 

In addition another creeping development is the inclusion of the PA34 dove-tail mounting blocks for Bachmann narrow

tension-lock couplings. I've used these exclusively on kit and RTR modifications for quite a few years. Ignore the printed

information as suitable for the cranked Bachmann couplings, it's always best to use the flat couplings in either short, or

long form. All you have to do is build a suitable correct height foundation. As an example cut the two base ridges away

and they fit onto the round moulded boss on Dapol kits, and at the perfect height !!

 

I did communicate with Peco and it seems my last 2 kits from a certain Widnes trader did have the parts missing. The small

sprue (17) has the early buffer heads and they offered to send on to me. In fact I didn't actually need them as in my 5 unit

build only 2 needed early buffers and they came from earlier packaged kits, I even have 1 spare here. My later 3 builds all

use the later GWR self contained buffers. Peco are NOT intending changing the kits contents other than adding PA34 mounts

and decals, both a great improvement offering a complete kit building content.

 

Dad-1

[Coming to the end of this build]

Hi Mikkel,

 

It's a bit of both. Originally done to show differing colours and size of Woodland Scenic ballast, then to show two differing

types of cheap & easy to make fencing. From my early exhibition scenics workshops.

Now it's used to set all wagon couplings to the same height, just plonk it on the kitchen work-top. It's also the ideal small

photo plinth. Works as a temporary 'store' for unfinished projects of which I have too many for the available space.

Never wired to be live, but needs an unsightly blob of BlueTack at each end to stop stuff rolling off when moved with some

wagon on it ! An EVER so useful piece !!

 

And thanks forthe comment ess1uk.

 

Dad-1

[Reviving an antique - No space left !]

A couple of shots looking down to the tidal river creek.

 

 

 

!0 years to get this far, I wonder how long I can string this out ?

 

Dad-1

[No mileage in sleepless nights - West Bay getting close to finished ?]

Thanks Mikkel, and other 'Likes'.

While getting this layout ready for our 12th January exhibition I've had to divert to

finish my this years club diorama competition entry. Last worked on and in a blog

posting here dated 31st May. It's been sitting gathering cobwebs in the garage since

then, luckily no damage.

Now tonight has water added to the stream,  masking tape dams will haveto stay in

place until morning.

 

 

Dad-1

[Kadees - Love them, or Hate them ?]

Hi E3109,

 

I tend to agree. On my big layout I use a small neo-magnet buried in a drilled out kebab stick, sealed in with superglue and sanded to a nice round end. I can then uncouple my Bachmann small tension locks that have a sliver of paper staple glued along the hooks top anywhere. That is important when you're pulling perhaps a 40 or 50 wagon train and wish to split in sidings somewhere, anywhere. I find the limitations of fixed uncoupling zones annoying. Those long trains are not just in my imagination - my longest (and reliable) was 59, you couldn't do that with brakes on !!

 

Then I suppose like everything there are exceptions and a slick shunting puzzle is much better with Kadees when you've managed to tame them. We're building Kadees into the clubs new West Bay layout for exactly the same reasons of it being a short shunting puzzle type of operation.

 

Dad-1