Dad-1

More progress, heck wish I could keep up with the local snails !! My spare decoder fits in the bunker, trouble is I'll have to keep as a lift off fitting just in case I ever need to change the decoder. The bunker base is sealed, just have the wires coming out My present difficulty is making up contact wipers for the insulated wheels. This is the plan :- two wires mounted in a copperclad strip from which the red input to the decoder will be attached. I want to connect together with a small tension spring, but I don't have any and trying to find what I THINK I want is not being easy. That may, or may not be the best idea. Any suggestions ? Trying to find a suitable springy wire to eliminate the spring idea is not easy. Then of course I need to attach the bogie and find how much pressure it can accept from the tail heavy model and stay on the tracks. I probably didn't help myself by using the largest brass flywheel I could fit in the space. I like large flywheels for smooth running, but this is all aft of the second driver axle. At least today with with the grey/orange/black wires attached and a crocodile clip attaching red, the motor was running through the decoder. This highlighted some fouling so I've been in a scrape white metal mode. Geoff T.

I know I'm not the only one ... To have unfinished projects that you eventually return to finish (I hope) Well coming up 11 years ago I had this idea to make a loco kit. It had to be what I wanted and not just because as a first build it should be something easy. I'm back into the box of bits that remain, I want to finish it. Currently I'm trying to build up the pickups. from plasticard, copperclad, springy wire. My chassis with gearbox runs well with power. As soon as pickups are in I have to get the rear bogie arrangement 'right'. The loco is packed with lead, but it still tail sits. The actual weight to be supported on the sprung bogie is low and as long as it moves sideway freely enough should/could be able to stay on the rails. Since I started this I have built 2 small Roxey Mouldings white metal kits. Fingers crossed. Geoff T

John new is quite right in that they simply don't have the ability to trot off to the works where there will be bins, or boxes of the component parts. They won't have made up packages less wheels, simply not a viable commercial option. Bearing in mind they are still chasing their tail in trying to get all their products back into the market after Covid shut down and moving some production to PPE for the duration. Like many things it Could be done, particularly for their own shop, but not a path they would wish to take. Particularly when the chosen wheels from Alan Gibson are slightly smaller than the options I would use (Dapol & Hornby) which need great care in reducing the brake block thickness to prevent heavy fouling !! Geoff T.

Although I built my two with the supplied Alan Gibson wheels I'd also be happy to take without wheel sets. They're quite difficult to ballast with invisible weight for running empty and by substituting Hornby, or Dapol all metal wheel assemblies you automatically add a few useful extra grams. I suppose their policy is to now supply complete kits, everything included. They probably feel that to start supplying any without bearings and wheel sets would come under severe criticism as the contents wouldn't match the instructions !! Can't see why they can't do this 'direct' from their shop though. May be worth an Email. GeoffT.

Sorry to be a couple of days late, but I thank you both for the advice. I shall investigate the Gaugemaster magnet, at £12 it's worth it if I can get this working correctly. Taking Izzy's advice seriously ! Geoff T.

I require one of the small electro magnets used with DG couplers I've made the couplers, but now find their electro-magnets are no longer available and it seems will no longer be made due to the only source for some special ferritic component no longer being made. Please P.M me if you can help. Geoff Trenholme.

As always they look better weathered and in service ! The first one has the earliest markings, no black panels. My second may yet have the early markings IF I can be bothered to make up such small running numbers consisting of 7 digits each side. If you've tried working the HMRS BR Freight Stock pressfix sheet you'll understand what I mean. Brilliant runners at under 12.5 grams each. I'll prefer to run that light rather than spoil the outline and underneath with lead weights afixed. Adding weight in a load no problem, but won't I be doing them until back orders arrive. Geoff T

I'll not try this again for a while ! The first production of these wagons had no black panels. I decided to try making 400520 & 400035 diagram 1/142 using the HMRS BR wagon pressfix sheet. I'd used a few bits off the sheet before and remembered that each subject is rather tight to it's neighbours. Plus being very small (in scale) they are very difficult to work with. In my case to see. I've tried before painting the chassis, probably because I thought it might go wrong and I wanted to do it before I see the opticians on Wednesday. From checking the few pictures I could find I also note that the early production had a weight of 9-10, that decal came from some Fox Decals. All future versions will be made using the kit decals. Geoff T.

Because I grew up in the days of King Coal and was born in Newcastle-upon-Tyne it's not surprising that I fancied a few of these new coal hoppers. They didn't last too long in the required sector, but were used for many other products, even sugar beet ? In my opinion a super little kit, very little to complain about and I'm currently running 2 without any decals. Must road test before finishing, partially while trying to decide what loads to add, be it sand, coal, iron ore, sugar beet. The load will help regarding the very light weight, with nowhere to add much invisible ballast. They weigh in at 11.06 grams, with a shred of lead in the voids behind the buffers I've reached 12.46 grams. Much to my surprise one in lightest form was able to pull 33 wagons around my garage layout that has some 1st radius curves. A bonus from trying to run my stock in it's lightest reliable condition, having said that the Bachmann 3F Jinty couldn't pull the train, but a Hornby J94 could !!. Seen in a much shorter train :- Geoff T.

Hi Mikkel, Yes, laying abandoned - should have given a serious weathering first. That fencing is Ratio #144, comes as a pack of stanchions with shortish lengths of stainless wire. The holes seem ideal for longer lengths of brass wire I have here. You don't get much for a fiver, but then you'd have severe difficulty making something like that at home. I've used it once before :- There are so many small accessories available that many go unnoticed. Geoff T

The Wagon Works has been active since the end of January when I last posted in my Blog thread. I'll have to check through exactly how much as once a project is finished, or nearly finished I just get on with the next thing and forget what's already gone under the bridge. One I have done half-cock as per usual is a Cambrian 10 ton ballast wagon. I thought I'd add some spoil from a small job, but was too impatient to await weathering first. I should add some more 'stuff', but this wagon is on my 'new' shunting layout that I've probably not mentioned on RMWeb An interesting project to drive, but also difficult to get the required slow running through Peco insulated Set-Track points. Then sorting out the Kadees. Nearly there, I think. Geoff T.

Hi Dunsignalling, Every one to their own principals, so long as stock stays on the track it must be an acceptable answer. As ever in this hobby there are differing views and just to show why I resist adding what I may see as unnecessary drawbar weight here the unballasted 13 ton hopper manages beyond reason !! https://youtu.be/bxM-MT3HY-U Geoff T.

I have one running now. They are light with no really obvious place to add ballast for stability. Mine still has to be fully painted and decaled, so a few fractions of a gram to add. Mine weighs in at 11.04 grams. Now I'll be controversial by saying I don't like adding weight unless absolutely necessary. So a question, How long a train do you want to pull behind these ? Mine sits in a train of mostly kit built wagons and runs around my garage test track so far without problems. An admission, there is no way I'd expect to reverse this through points pushing this lot !! Mention is made in the thread regarding the Alan Gibson wheels. Yes these dainty scale type wheel sets are plastic wheels with steel tyres and changing to all metal wheels will add some weight. Beware because the AG wheels are in my opinion slightly under size, coming out at 12.06 mm on my vernier. The kit clearences are made for this and if you fit any big manufacturer wheels like Bachmann, Dapol, or Hornby they will foul brake shoes and on some kits the underbody framework. The other killer with AG wheels is the highly magnetic wheel tyres that cause severe setting problems if you want to use with Kadee couplers. As I don't intend to use this on one of my Kadee layouts I'm keeping to the AG wheel sets. I didn't use the build instructions as shown, preferring to make a chassis and add the end platform grab rails. Make the hopper as a separate item and splice on scraping joints to get as near a perfect fit as possible. One coat of paint has sealed all those lower joints making my hopper watertight. Grab rail wires tend to split out of the moulded holes, but quite honestly it made fitting so much easier. Yes measurements for bending would help. I noted 6.5 mm for the platform end grab rails, 10.0 mm for each end on the long rail, with a centre section of 31.0 mm. Certainly worked for me !! Regarding weight, in this train there is a Cambrian 10T Stone wagon that tops the scales at 12.64 grams with it's deep flange Hornby wheel sets. It's been pulling up to 24 wagons behind it without derailing. Geoff T.

While I was unhappy with cyno glue working on nylon fishing line under tension I drifted off to do more 4 mm scale stuff. Today was foul, to keep myself busy indoors I took one board into the kitchen to finish the fence wiring. To photograph I put one wagon on to help show up the fine fence wires. To save my sanity I've put just 7 strands. Now I see that I've not painted all the track !! Still loads to do Geoff T.

Hi Adrian, I need to replace my glue dispenser so I'll give Gorilla a try. Over 250 feet of fencing wires to add, that's why I kept to only 7 strand fencing. Geoff T.

I've now progressed to a test of patience job, in fact the last significant component before I'll say this Club's test loop is finished. I'll start with a question. Has anyone found a fast setting glue that'll hold Nylon fishing line ?? My testing job is stringing all the fence posts. I've found even a fair quality superglue is poor at setting and in particular holding nylon fishing line to steel fence posts. I start with a knot to tie on then add some Loctite, this just about works because of the knot. I loop around each nail (That's what my fence posts are) and then loop around a couple of times on the last post and add superglue. I've found that even after being left overnight the glue can't stop the wrap-around from gradually unwinding it's self !! The greenish fishing nylon doesn't look right so I'll be finishing each wire with a coat of aluminium paint to look like galvanised wire. I thought I'd mention a 7 mm building kit supplier '422 Modelmaking' that I've come across. They do several kits in resin, with 3 small huts at very affordable prices. I chose the corrugated tin hut, very simple and the parts need some fettling, but at just under a tenner I don't think you'll find better. Certainly they met my requirements and here are a couple of photos. I've not finished it yet, more painting to do. The ridge is my own addition where a thin kebab section fills the ridge and then covered with a watered down PVA soaked strip of newspaper. Currently just painted with aluminium paint. It's final resting place to be arranged later when the base will be sealed into the ground. Geoff T.

I fear that Jim just can't cope with the demands placed on him. I have spoken with him in the past, but not always been able to clear the problem of delays in getting re-prints of out of stock items. I regret that has caused me to no longer place any orders direct. It is a shame, but when I order it's because I need something and no matter how 'nice' the supplier is I will look elsewhere to get my requirements. Geoff T.

I've still not finished my wagons. I keep jumping from project to project, one day some will be finished ! Here is a short video of a walk-down the clubs 16 foot plank. Is it becoming almost a layout ?? The difficult decision is how to work the points ? I'd go digital, but it's been built for the club so others requirements are significant. Questions now being asked. I will admit much of my time has been spent working on 4 mm scale ! Geoff T.

H Woodyfox, I've had a look through your work, me I'm keeping well away from Brass !! That non-matching decal sheet easily made up a number set suitable for a Pressed Steel made wagon from 1950, B75442. The last decals went on tonight and had a Microsol treatment so I couldn't touch the exterior. Being impatient I decided to weather the interior and just add rust dabs on exterior hinges. Those rust dabs will be much less obvious when I weather the chassis and outside. Geoff T.

For reasons that it's difficult to pinpoint I've been rather slow in getting on with this project. Last evening I added the last few detail parts to my Peco PS30 16 ton mineral wagon build. Now to check out what running number I'll be using. Another annoying discrepancy came to light when I checked out the decal sheet. It immediately struck me that the decal sheet had floor located hopper markings , then the numbering sequence was 'wrong'. After having made about 30 '00' kits of 16 tonners you get to know the ranges for diagram 1/108 wagons. The numbers on MY decal sheet were for diagram 1/100 Slope Sided 16 ton minerals AND the sheet was marked as being for a PS73 kit ???? I checked my last Peco issue advertising leaflet and there is no PS73 kit shown. Is this wrong sheet by accident or design ???? Are they getting past, or future decal sheets packed by accident, or just using up what is on the shelf ?? As I've said earlier I've had SO many minor problems on my small 'O' scale journey into wagon kits that I'm happy it's a very limited project. More minor faults than in more than 150+ '00' wagons. Anyway, painting starts this evening. Geoff T.

I've a long way to go with these wagons. However more grass edging laid today. This is to try and embarrass myself so much I keep working on it. I've also booked the West Bay, Bridport "Salt House" for a club open day come mini exhibition on 8th August. Fingers crossed nothing happens to our Pandemic progress. Geoff T.

Thank you Gentlemen for the 'Likes'. Obviously unable to do more 'grass' laying until my additional supplies arrive. What I have done over the weekend is prepare the next middle board by drilling another 36 holes, cutting the heads off the required nails and press into place. Finally paint the varnish with dark earth coloured paint. Next, tomorrow I shall add the sand based 'gravel' alongside the ballasted track ready for the arrival of my replacement scatter. Perhaps tonight I'll find that part built 16 ton mineral, I've forgotten how far I've got !! Geofft.

With Lock-Down end in sight I need to push on with this Club Test Loop. I always intended on having strong fencing along the 'plank', one club member has a 4-6-0 and it must be secure from being accidently knocked off the plank to the floor. I pre-drilled holes to give an interference fit on 65 x 3.35 nails. Nail heads are cut off and I used a 4" all steel 'G' clamp to press in, leaving 6 Ft scale (42 mm) high. When all the grass edging is in place I'll string these posts with 15 lb fishing nylon. Still not certain about the number of strands, somewhere between 8 and 10 depending how quickly I get tired of doing it !! Nails just resting in the drilled holes. All pressed in and roughly painted Here the 'grass' is still wet with PVA/Water I'm running low and last evening had to buy several different scatters. Can't do much more until they arrive. Had to use 3 different traders to get all the differing products, it'll be like Christmas this coming week !! Geoff T.

Hi DavidCBroad, It was stopping abruptly as I was using the direction button to move from forward to reverse and back again rather than slow down to a stop before changing direction. It was a way of reducing time to complete the exercise. Geoff T

A couple of weeks since I said I had a smile on my face regarding the 1361 series models. I've just done this video of my Heljan version shunting on my HS II layout, HS II for Happy Shunting, design version II. This is to prove that with more time than most would want to spend the Heljan 1361 CAN be made to run slowly and reliably. It was just a shame it's taken me 18 months to achieve what it should have been like out of the box ! Geoff T.